S5 'vert aftermarket head-unit wiring
01-22-11, 12:48 PM
#26
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01-22-11, 07:08 PM
#27
MECP Certified Installer
I did the rear 6x8 "sub" amplifier bypass and cut the holes larger to hold 6x9's.
Sounds MUCH better. Be careful if you do this though, as the mounting depth is very shallow and the magnets will hit the metal behind the carpet if too big.
Sounds MUCH better. Be careful if you do this though, as the mounting depth is very shallow and the magnets will hit the metal behind the carpet if too big.
01-22-11, 07:32 PM
#28
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Thanks, Durtled! That was the best link, for the occasion.
@jj: That's a pretty good idea.
Which 6x9s did you use? I ask to find out what kind of mounting depth you were working with.
Also, You bypassed the sub amp? Would your have worked if you'd used the OEM one?
@jj: That's a pretty good idea.
Which 6x9s did you use? I ask to find out what kind of mounting depth you were working with.
Also, You bypassed the sub amp? Would your have worked if you'd used the OEM one?
01-22-11, 08:13 PM
#29
MECP Certified Installer
I am MECP certified and do it for a living. My experience has told me they suck as an technician, plus my experience having them myself.
Besides that, yes you can use the factory amp, but the fact is, any aftermarket radio can put out more watts RMS than the factory amp. You might as well bypass it. You have to run wire from the harness to the speakers directly, but it isn't that bad of a job.
01-22-11, 11:09 PM
#31
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LOL
GO GET IM JACK!!!
Look, Jack and I corresponded on getting the Vert wiring set up done. I'm running an AVIC Z2 in my S5 Vert.
I didn't use any aftermarket plug and play harness, and neither did jack that I now of. What I did was bench solder the wiring from the aftermarket harness (some call it the pigtail) to a plug I cut out of a junk yard harness so it all would plug into the factory plug. I would never cut the the factory plug off as then you'd be screwed if you ever wanted to go back to the factory head unit (like say you wanted to keep your aftermarket head unit for another car if you later sold the Vert).
For any readers that pull up this thread searching for some direction, the PRIMARY thing you need to know about a VERT vs COUP wiring is there is a negative trigger wire in a vert that runs from the stock plug (you otherwise plug into the stock head unit) to the headrest amp that doesn't exist in a coup. Any aftermarket head unit should have a negative trigger wire for an aftermarket amp. You simply run that amp negative trigger wire to the correct pin for the HR amp, and you're fully functional.
Another thought. The Headrest speakers are something between a mid-range speaker and a tweeter. You really don't need much power to drive them, so I suggest the stock HR amp is adequate even today. And you retain the functionality of the center consol HR volume control.
You MIGHT consider replacing the HR speakers themselves. I bought a set from this company http://www.3rdstrategy.com/RX7.htm and have been very happy with the results. But unless you're re-upholsering your Vert seats (which I was) they are a sunn a biatch to install without tearing the headrest material.
One other thing, the audio output to the HR amp in an S4 is amplified. The audio output to the HR amp in an S5 is pre-amp. Just keep that in mind when you deciding what audio out from the aftermarket head unit to choose to feed your headrest speaker amp. As you see from my signature, I own both an S4 and S5 Vert.
GO GET IM JACK!!!
Look, Jack and I corresponded on getting the Vert wiring set up done. I'm running an AVIC Z2 in my S5 Vert.
I didn't use any aftermarket plug and play harness, and neither did jack that I now of. What I did was bench solder the wiring from the aftermarket harness (some call it the pigtail) to a plug I cut out of a junk yard harness so it all would plug into the factory plug. I would never cut the the factory plug off as then you'd be screwed if you ever wanted to go back to the factory head unit (like say you wanted to keep your aftermarket head unit for another car if you later sold the Vert).
For any readers that pull up this thread searching for some direction, the PRIMARY thing you need to know about a VERT vs COUP wiring is there is a negative trigger wire in a vert that runs from the stock plug (you otherwise plug into the stock head unit) to the headrest amp that doesn't exist in a coup. Any aftermarket head unit should have a negative trigger wire for an aftermarket amp. You simply run that amp negative trigger wire to the correct pin for the HR amp, and you're fully functional.
Another thought. The Headrest speakers are something between a mid-range speaker and a tweeter. You really don't need much power to drive them, so I suggest the stock HR amp is adequate even today. And you retain the functionality of the center consol HR volume control.
You MIGHT consider replacing the HR speakers themselves. I bought a set from this company http://www.3rdstrategy.com/RX7.htm and have been very happy with the results. But unless you're re-upholsering your Vert seats (which I was) they are a sunn a biatch to install without tearing the headrest material.
One other thing, the audio output to the HR amp in an S4 is amplified. The audio output to the HR amp in an S5 is pre-amp. Just keep that in mind when you deciding what audio out from the aftermarket head unit to choose to feed your headrest speaker amp. As you see from my signature, I own both an S4 and S5 Vert.
01-23-11, 06:16 PM
#32
MECP Certified Installer
LOL
GO GET IM JACK!!!
Look, Jack and I corresponded on getting the Vert wiring set up done. I'm running an AVIC Z2 in my S5 Vert.
I didn't use any aftermarket plug and play harness, and neither did jack that I now of. What I did was bench solder the wiring from the aftermarket harness (some call it the pigtail) to a plug I cut out of a junk yard harness so it all would plug into the factory plug. I would never cut the the factory plug off as then you'd be screwed if you ever wanted to go back to the factory head unit (like say you wanted to keep your aftermarket head unit for another car if you later sold the Vert).
For any readers that pull up this thread searching for some direction, the PRIMARY thing you need to know about a VERT vs COUP wiring is there is a negative trigger wire in a vert that runs from the stock plug (you otherwise plug into the stock head unit) to the headrest amp that doesn't exist in a coup. Any aftermarket head unit should have a negative trigger wire for an aftermarket amp. You simply run that amp negative trigger wire to the correct pin for the HR amp, and you're fully functional.
Another thought. The Headrest speakers are something between a mid-range speaker and a tweeter. You really don't need much power to drive them, so I suggest the stock HR amp is adequate even today. And you retain the functionality of the center consol HR volume control.
You MIGHT consider replacing the HR speakers themselves. I bought a set from this company http://www.3rdstrategy.com/RX7.htm and have been very happy with the results. But unless you're re-upholsering your Vert seats (which I was) they are a sunn a biatch to install without tearing the headrest material.
One other thing, the audio output to the HR amp in an S4 is amplified. The audio output to the HR amp in an S5 is pre-amp. Just keep that in mind when you deciding what audio out from the aftermarket head unit to choose to feed your headrest speaker amp. As you see from my signature, I own both an S4 and S5 Vert.
GO GET IM JACK!!!
Look, Jack and I corresponded on getting the Vert wiring set up done. I'm running an AVIC Z2 in my S5 Vert.
I didn't use any aftermarket plug and play harness, and neither did jack that I now of. What I did was bench solder the wiring from the aftermarket harness (some call it the pigtail) to a plug I cut out of a junk yard harness so it all would plug into the factory plug. I would never cut the the factory plug off as then you'd be screwed if you ever wanted to go back to the factory head unit (like say you wanted to keep your aftermarket head unit for another car if you later sold the Vert).
For any readers that pull up this thread searching for some direction, the PRIMARY thing you need to know about a VERT vs COUP wiring is there is a negative trigger wire in a vert that runs from the stock plug (you otherwise plug into the stock head unit) to the headrest amp that doesn't exist in a coup. Any aftermarket head unit should have a negative trigger wire for an aftermarket amp. You simply run that amp negative trigger wire to the correct pin for the HR amp, and you're fully functional.
Another thought. The Headrest speakers are something between a mid-range speaker and a tweeter. You really don't need much power to drive them, so I suggest the stock HR amp is adequate even today. And you retain the functionality of the center consol HR volume control.
You MIGHT consider replacing the HR speakers themselves. I bought a set from this company http://www.3rdstrategy.com/RX7.htm and have been very happy with the results. But unless you're re-upholsering your Vert seats (which I was) they are a sunn a biatch to install without tearing the headrest material.
One other thing, the audio output to the HR amp in an S4 is amplified. The audio output to the HR amp in an S5 is pre-amp. Just keep that in mind when you deciding what audio out from the aftermarket head unit to choose to feed your headrest speaker amp. As you see from my signature, I own both an S4 and S5 Vert.
01-23-11, 07:04 PM
#33
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I thought about that, too, 'cept I don't really listen to the radio and my wing over-sits the antenna.
I'm thinkin' that I'm not going to use the OEM motorized on and just run one inside my windshield, at the top.
Only ****-box thing about my Clarion is that it doesn't have a USB input, but it DOES have RCA AUX inputs, so I'm good, there. I'll probably run a phono > RCA harness to the glove-box or armrest for MP3 player or computer input, like I did in my Miata (Hijacked the signal between the headunit and the Amp to run input from the computer - DVDs, games, etc.).
Additionally, today I got the subs to work, via the regular harness, but didn't hear the headrest speakers, so I'll have to look, tomorrow to see if I missed anything.
Oh, my headunit's amp relay is L/W instead of solid L. I tried both and the former is the one that triggers (using the other or unplugging it makes the subs inoperable, so that 's a plus.
I also noticed that if I have a wonky rear signal, the subs don't work and, since I haven't looked at the diagram today (been busy doing an 8"TFT HU install in my '02 Mustang GT and now am working on the rad diffuser on the vert), I have to guess that they send the signal to the HR amp, and from there it goes to the sub amp.
I'm probably wrong as all hell, on this one too, but it works, so I can't be TOO wrong on how I've proceeded, thus far.
I'm thinkin' that I'm not going to use the OEM motorized on and just run one inside my windshield, at the top.
Only ****-box thing about my Clarion is that it doesn't have a USB input, but it DOES have RCA AUX inputs, so I'm good, there. I'll probably run a phono > RCA harness to the glove-box or armrest for MP3 player or computer input, like I did in my Miata (Hijacked the signal between the headunit and the Amp to run input from the computer - DVDs, games, etc.).
Additionally, today I got the subs to work, via the regular harness, but didn't hear the headrest speakers, so I'll have to look, tomorrow to see if I missed anything.
Oh, my headunit's amp relay is L/W instead of solid L. I tried both and the former is the one that triggers (using the other or unplugging it makes the subs inoperable, so that 's a plus.
I also noticed that if I have a wonky rear signal, the subs don't work and, since I haven't looked at the diagram today (been busy doing an 8"TFT HU install in my '02 Mustang GT and now am working on the rad diffuser on the vert), I have to guess that they send the signal to the HR amp, and from there it goes to the sub amp.
I'm probably wrong as all hell, on this one too, but it works, so I can't be TOO wrong on how I've proceeded, thus far.
01-23-11, 07:21 PM
#34
MECP Certified Installer
I thought about that, too, 'cept I don't really listen to the radio and my wing over-sits the antenna.
I'm thinkin' that I'm not going to use the OEM motorized on and just run one inside my windshield, at the top.
Only ****-box thing about my Clarion is that it doesn't have a USB input, but it DOES have RCA AUX inputs, so I'm good, there. I'll probably run a phono > RCA harness to the glove-box or armrest for MP3 player or computer input, like I did in my Miata (Hijacked the signal between the headunit and the Amp to run input from the computer - DVDs, games, etc.).
Additionally, today I got the subs to work, via the regular harness, but didn't hear the headrest speakers, so I'll have to look, tomorrow to see if I missed anything.
Oh, my headunit's amp relay is L/W instead of solid L. I tried both and the former is the one that triggers (using the other or unplugging it makes the subs inoperable, so that 's a plus.
I also noticed that if I have a wonky rear signal, the subs don't work and, since I haven't looked at the diagram today (been busy doing an 8"TFT HU install in my '02 Mustang GT and now am working on the rad diffuser on the vert), I have to guess that they send the signal to the HR amp, and from there it goes to the sub amp.
I'm probably wrong as all hell, on this one too, but it works, so I can't be TOO wrong on how I've proceeded, thus far.
I'm thinkin' that I'm not going to use the OEM motorized on and just run one inside my windshield, at the top.
Only ****-box thing about my Clarion is that it doesn't have a USB input, but it DOES have RCA AUX inputs, so I'm good, there. I'll probably run a phono > RCA harness to the glove-box or armrest for MP3 player or computer input, like I did in my Miata (Hijacked the signal between the headunit and the Amp to run input from the computer - DVDs, games, etc.).
Additionally, today I got the subs to work, via the regular harness, but didn't hear the headrest speakers, so I'll have to look, tomorrow to see if I missed anything.
Oh, my headunit's amp relay is L/W instead of solid L. I tried both and the former is the one that triggers (using the other or unplugging it makes the subs inoperable, so that 's a plus.
I also noticed that if I have a wonky rear signal, the subs don't work and, since I haven't looked at the diagram today (been busy doing an 8"TFT HU install in my '02 Mustang GT and now am working on the rad diffuser on the vert), I have to guess that they send the signal to the HR amp, and from there it goes to the sub amp.
I'm probably wrong as all hell, on this one too, but it works, so I can't be TOO wrong on how I've proceeded, thus far.
Since I bypassed the sub amp from the get go, I have no idea how the amp turn on is routed. I'll take a look at the wiring diagram and shed some insight if I can...
01-23-11, 07:31 PM
#35
MECP Certified Installer
Oh ****, don't use the amp turn on wire. Both amps are already wired to the ignition switch to turn on if I am reading this diagram correctly. The only reason to use the amp turn on is for the antenna. If you have the radio off, you'll have 12v ignition bleed into the radio.
Last edited by jjwalker; 01-23-11 at 07:38 PM.
01-24-11, 01:48 AM
#36
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Sorry, I should've clarified:
The wire, that I'm referring to (L/W) is on the pigtail between the Clarion and the OEM harness (H/U harness > Pigtail > OEM), not the L/W on the chassis harness.
My unit has both a blue and a blue/White ans after checking both the solid, and it didn't work, I used the striped.
Gladly enough, I had a couple of unused pins in the pigtail so I pulled those pin connections out of the harness and connected them to a couple of the other wires from the pigtail, plugged them into the 1J plug.
If I switched power, and it didn't work, I swapped them out - nice little process of elimination, since the solid blue didn't work.
JJ, correct me if I'm WAY off base, with this one, but doesn't this rear-end flow: Headunit > HR amp > Sub amp? How can the second work if the first doesn't? My REAR-end wiring (on plug 'J-02') is:
Greens > Browns;
Purples > Blues.
Yes, no, maybe? Can you clarify, a little better, the BOLD text from post #31? That'd be a major help since I keep getting stuck on that.
I'll take a few minutes, tomorrow (later today?) to see what's going on, since I was under the impression that the sub amp signal came from the HR amp; for the post- unit to work and not the pre-, makes me figure it's something odd, in and of itself.
As an IT specialist, I commonly use the term 'EBKAC' for cases like this:
Error Between Keyboard and Chair. (Which it seems, is my current location
)
The wire, that I'm referring to (L/W) is on the pigtail between the Clarion and the OEM harness (H/U harness > Pigtail > OEM), not the L/W on the chassis harness.
My unit has both a blue and a blue/White ans after checking both the solid, and it didn't work, I used the striped.
Gladly enough, I had a couple of unused pins in the pigtail so I pulled those pin connections out of the harness and connected them to a couple of the other wires from the pigtail, plugged them into the 1J plug.
If I switched power, and it didn't work, I swapped them out - nice little process of elimination, since the solid blue didn't work.
JJ, correct me if I'm WAY off base, with this one, but doesn't this rear-end flow: Headunit > HR amp > Sub amp? How can the second work if the first doesn't? My REAR-end wiring (on plug 'J-02') is:
Greens > Browns;
Purples > Blues.
Yes, no, maybe? Can you clarify, a little better, the BOLD text from post #31? That'd be a major help since I keep getting stuck on that.
I'll take a few minutes, tomorrow (later today?) to see what's going on, since I was under the impression that the sub amp signal came from the HR amp; for the post- unit to work and not the pre-, makes me figure it's something odd, in and of itself.
As an IT specialist, I commonly use the term 'EBKAC' for cases like this:
Error Between Keyboard and Chair. (Which it seems, is my current location
)
01-27-11, 09:28 AM
#38
That is great ending of this technical thread for all those DIY-minded people that don't want a plug and play solution and resent having a bunch of information omitted from the write-up.
At least you didn't have to go out and just buy something. Because that method would just be a ****-ton easier.
01-27-11, 12:57 PM
#39
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Don't you get altitude sickness way up on that high-horse of yours?
Disregard. Since you don't know where I was going with this, nor the entire spectrum of the project, I'll safely park you into the, 'ignorant ***,' category and get it over with.
All you've done is come into this thread and show that you're more interested in showing what YOU know, as opposed to attempting to help someone else accomplish what they're trying to do.
Unlike you, saying, 'I'm outta here,' and coming back I actually AM out of here....
All it takes is one 'tard who THINKS they understand, to get a person to unsubscribe from their own thread.
Don't you get altitude sickness way up on that high-horse of yours?
Disregard. Since you don't know where I was going with this, nor the entire spectrum of the project, I'll safely park you into the, 'ignorant ***,' category and get it over with.
All you've done is come into this thread and show that you're more interested in showing what YOU know, as opposed to attempting to help someone else accomplish what they're trying to do.
Unlike you, saying, 'I'm outta here,' and coming back I actually AM out of here....
All it takes is one 'tard who THINKS they understand, to get a person to unsubscribe from their own thread.
01-27-11, 03:55 PM
#40
Honestly, I don't know what you were even trying to accomplish. It seemed like you just wanted to wire up a headunit to the stock harness, which is the info he tried to provide. The constant comparisons to an S4 harness had me lost and didn't make much sense.
01-27-11, 04:04 PM
#41
save your breath jerry- he is "out of here"
then on top of it all someone links coupe wiring at the top of the screen, paying no mind that the vert has different wiring
OP ( because come on we know you WILL be back, lol ) - I applaud you for trying to figure this out, but sometimes its a **** ton easier to just buy a simple little part that makes it plug and play and takes the guess work out.
then on top of it all someone links coupe wiring at the top of the screen, paying no mind that the vert has different wiring
OP ( because come on we know you WILL be back, lol ) - I applaud you for trying to figure this out, but sometimes its a **** ton easier to just buy a simple little part that makes it plug and play and takes the guess work out.
01-27-11, 05:11 PM
#42
My 'horse' was borrowed, word for word from your posts. That is why it stings.
Pretty thin-skinned for an Army guy. On that side note, *thank-you* for serving. I really mean that.
I would never have posted back if you hadn't ended your 'tutorial thread' saying you succeeded but didn't know how you did it. Come on, lighten up! That was just too funny. If you think I am an *** for laughing at it, well, that's ok. Should I introduce you to the 'Jack Wagon' fan club?
On the other hand I gave you the exact technical documents that you needed to accomplish...whatever it was you were trying to accomplish.
And I did give you the only technical details that you received in this thread-that were relevant and accurate. Should I be sorry for 'showing what I know' when I gave you this help? Whasamata, didn't get your money's worth?
Come on, this isn't a help-desk, it's an online car club. Everyone is on here because they want to be.
You don't have to like me. Call me an ignorant ***. But put on your Big Boy Pants and don't say I didn't help you.
Pretty thin-skinned for an Army guy. On that side note, *thank-you* for serving. I really mean that.
I would never have posted back if you hadn't ended your 'tutorial thread' saying you succeeded but didn't know how you did it. Come on, lighten up! That was just too funny. If you think I am an *** for laughing at it, well, that's ok. Should I introduce you to the 'Jack Wagon' fan club?
On the other hand I gave you the exact technical documents that you needed to accomplish...whatever it was you were trying to accomplish.
And I did give you the only technical details that you received in this thread-that were relevant and accurate. Should I be sorry for 'showing what I know' when I gave you this help? Whasamata, didn't get your money's worth?
Come on, this isn't a help-desk, it's an online car club. Everyone is on here because they want to be. You don't have to like me. Call me an ignorant ***. But put on your Big Boy Pants and don't say I didn't help you.
01-27-11, 06:21 PM
#43
MECP Certified Installer
My 'horse' was borrowed, word for word from your posts. That is why it stings.
Pretty thin-skinned for an Army guy. On that side note, *thank-you* for serving. I really mean that.
I would never have posted back if you hadn't ended your 'tutorial thread' saying you succeeded but didn't know how you did it. Come on, lighten up! That was just too funny. If you think I am an *** for laughing at it, well, that's ok. Should I introduce you to the 'Jack Wagon' fan club?
On the other hand I gave you the exact technical documents that you needed to accomplish...whatever it was you were trying to accomplish.
And I did give you the only technical details that you received in this thread-that were relevant and accurate. Should I be sorry for 'showing what I know' when I gave you this help? Whasamata, didn't get your money's worth? Come on, this isn't a help-desk, it's an online car club. Everyone is on here because they want to be.
You don't have to like me. Call me an ignorant ***. But put on your Big Boy Pants and don't say I didn't help you.
Pretty thin-skinned for an Army guy. On that side note, *thank-you* for serving. I really mean that.
I would never have posted back if you hadn't ended your 'tutorial thread' saying you succeeded but didn't know how you did it. Come on, lighten up! That was just too funny. If you think I am an *** for laughing at it, well, that's ok. Should I introduce you to the 'Jack Wagon' fan club?
On the other hand I gave you the exact technical documents that you needed to accomplish...whatever it was you were trying to accomplish.
And I did give you the only technical details that you received in this thread-that were relevant and accurate. Should I be sorry for 'showing what I know' when I gave you this help? Whasamata, didn't get your money's worth?
Come on, this isn't a help-desk, it's an online car club. Everyone is on here because they want to be. You don't have to like me. Call me an ignorant ***. But put on your Big Boy Pants and don't say I didn't help you.
Ignorant ***! (I kid, I kid).
02-10-11, 02:33 AM
#47
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How many different times and ways must I tell you, there is no difference between doing it with the harness and doing it without the harness. Except you must have a wiring diagram and be able to read it.
Then you can eliminate spending the $ for the harness. And you get to ignore the knowledge and engineering that other people and Audio companies have put into making this unusual install go smooth and easy, ending with a fully functioning system.
But then of course you have to go back and add in the cost of the small pins to plug into the chassis harness. And the cost of a proper crimper. Unless you just *cut* the stock wiring harness....
If you are trying to come up with a way to eliminate the stock chassis harness and wiring, then just state: "Rip that **** out and rewire it!" Easy to say, easy to do.
I *hate* hacked up cars. I personally don't think the world needs another S5 Vert with a hacked up wiring harness.
Please don't try to do a thread to 'teach people another way' when you haven't figured up from down or sic 'em from c'mere. I know how to do this and am having difficulty following what you have done, what you are doing and what you hope to accomplish.
I can see future searchers finding your thread and getting completely confused.
Sorry to unload on you, you seem to be a nice guy. I'm out of here.
Then you can eliminate spending the $ for the harness. And you get to ignore the knowledge and engineering that other people and Audio companies have put into making this unusual install go smooth and easy, ending with a fully functioning system.
But then of course you have to go back and add in the cost of the small pins to plug into the chassis harness. And the cost of a proper crimper. Unless you just *cut* the stock wiring harness....
If you are trying to come up with a way to eliminate the stock chassis harness and wiring, then just state: "Rip that **** out and rewire it!" Easy to say, easy to do.
I *hate* hacked up cars. I personally don't think the world needs another S5 Vert with a hacked up wiring harness.
Please don't try to do a thread to 'teach people another way' when you haven't figured up from down or sic 'em from c'mere. I know how to do this and am having difficulty following what you have done, what you are doing and what you hope to accomplish.
I can see future searchers finding your thread and getting completely confused.
Sorry to unload on you, you seem to be a nice guy. I'm out of here.
I just recently picked up an S5 'vert. I LOVE the headrest speakers and surround sound and aim to keep them. Handily, my head unit has separate wires for amp turn-on and power antenna. I'm still waiting on the Metra harness (which I order from Amazon for $9.03 shipped two-day with an Amazon Prime trial that I promptly canceled), along with a cage, power harness and remote box data cable that have mysteriously disappeared (well, the power harness was FUUUUUUUUUUUCKED from said previous owner hacking it into the S4 GTUs). I've already got my power antenna relay built.
So Jack, you had no problems with pushing > 15W to the stock amp? Volume levels are fine and whatnot? I actually had a Best Buy installer who owns an FC (actually 3 of the installers at my BB are current/former owners) tell me that I was going to have to run wire to my speakers to bypass the stock amps. I'm eager to prove him wrong.
11-08-16, 07:13 PM
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Add subwoofer in convertible spare tire cavity
hey guys... i know this is an old thread. if anyone happens to be here still, i was wondering if you could enlighten me on the following:
all i want to do is add a powered subwoofer to my spare tire cavity.
to do this, i need the following:
* a heavy gauge power line from the battery compartment
* a +12 remote amp turn on signal
* a left and right audio signal for my amp... it only has one speaker. i guess it will merge L+R
* a local chasis ground
the powered subwoofer allows preamp or speaker level inputs. i was thinking it would be a good idea to use the high level inputs since i expect they already exist somewhere in the vicinity of the (headrest speaker amp?) in the spare tire compartment.
also, i know that low level (RCA) wires are more susceptible to interference by nature of their lower signal to noise ratio... i'm not sure how much the coax and shielding counteract this, but it would be nice to not have to route RCA from my aftermarket stereo.
by the way , this is for a 1990 convertible with airbag. it has 2 door speakers, no dash speaker, headrest speakers, and 2 mini woofer enclosures behind the seats.
if the signal in the stock audio pipeline runs from the head unit to the headrest amp to the subwoofer amp, then can i steal a high, or low level signal from the input or output of the headrest amp?
are there two different signals coming off of the headrest amp? a low level, low pass to feed the subwoofer amp, and a high level full range to feed the headrest speakers? my powered subwoofer accepts high or low inputs, but there are dedicated inputs for each, so i do need to know which type i'm working with.
also, respectfully, please spare me the "test it yourself". i live in a place where i am not so fortunate to have a garage, so any work i do will be with half my person hanging out of a 2 seater into a busy street. i want to get in and out as quickly as possible.
second, where can i grab the amp turn-on signal? i read in this thread that some of the amps are always on with ignition, but there is a remote amp wire coming off the metra harness, so where does it go? can i pick it up in the spare tire cavity?
also, just out of curiosity, has anyone replaced their 4" subwoofers with aftermarket speakers? i had a hell of a time finding 1-way speakers in 4" that didn't bottom out the plastic enclosure. anyone find something that works?
all i want to do is add a powered subwoofer to my spare tire cavity.
to do this, i need the following:
* a heavy gauge power line from the battery compartment
* a +12 remote amp turn on signal
* a left and right audio signal for my amp... it only has one speaker. i guess it will merge L+R
* a local chasis ground
the powered subwoofer allows preamp or speaker level inputs. i was thinking it would be a good idea to use the high level inputs since i expect they already exist somewhere in the vicinity of the (headrest speaker amp?) in the spare tire compartment.
also, i know that low level (RCA) wires are more susceptible to interference by nature of their lower signal to noise ratio... i'm not sure how much the coax and shielding counteract this, but it would be nice to not have to route RCA from my aftermarket stereo.
by the way , this is for a 1990 convertible with airbag. it has 2 door speakers, no dash speaker, headrest speakers, and 2 mini woofer enclosures behind the seats.
if the signal in the stock audio pipeline runs from the head unit to the headrest amp to the subwoofer amp, then can i steal a high, or low level signal from the input or output of the headrest amp?
are there two different signals coming off of the headrest amp? a low level, low pass to feed the subwoofer amp, and a high level full range to feed the headrest speakers? my powered subwoofer accepts high or low inputs, but there are dedicated inputs for each, so i do need to know which type i'm working with.
also, respectfully, please spare me the "test it yourself". i live in a place where i am not so fortunate to have a garage, so any work i do will be with half my person hanging out of a 2 seater into a busy street. i want to get in and out as quickly as possible.
second, where can i grab the amp turn-on signal? i read in this thread that some of the amps are always on with ignition, but there is a remote amp wire coming off the metra harness, so where does it go? can i pick it up in the spare tire cavity?
also, just out of curiosity, has anyone replaced their 4" subwoofers with aftermarket speakers? i had a hell of a time finding 1-way speakers in 4" that didn't bottom out the plastic enclosure. anyone find something that works?
01-03-17, 11:52 AM
#49
As Hozzmanrx7 noted, there is a negative trigger wire that runs to the HR Amp. There is also the negative trigger for the antenna. Both are choices for your aftermarket amp.
Also, as Hozzmanrx7 noted in other threads, only the 88 has high level input going to the HR Amp. 89-91 have low level. So there is your low level source.
Also, as Hozzmanrx7 noted in other threads, only the 88 has high level input going to the HR Amp. 89-91 have low level. So there is your low level source.
01-05-17, 09:05 PM
#50
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Okay all you need it a test light and a 9 volt battery to figure out all the wires for your head unit including speakers.
If your looking to install an aftermarket radio it actually very simple. The new radio needs constant power which you can isolate the manufacturer constant using the test light and turning the key on and off the wire will always be hot. Then you need to isolate the remote power or acc power which will be hot with key in on position, to figure out your speaker wires you use a 9 volt battery and listen for which speakers pops. If you have a good eye you can even watch the speaker to see if it hits out or in to figure out which wire is negative and positive. He ground is easy you can make your own. Then if you want to power an amp use the aftermarket remote out line. Hope this helps.
If your looking to install an aftermarket radio it actually very simple. The new radio needs constant power which you can isolate the manufacturer constant using the test light and turning the key on and off the wire will always be hot. Then you need to isolate the remote power or acc power which will be hot with key in on position, to figure out your speaker wires you use a 9 volt battery and listen for which speakers pops. If you have a good eye you can even watch the speaker to see if it hits out or in to figure out which wire is negative and positive. He ground is easy you can make your own. Then if you want to power an amp use the aftermarket remote out line. Hope this helps.
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