s5 turboII no start
#1
lycanthrope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: lancaster ca
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
s5 turboII no start
so i just did a turboII swap and i am pretty sure i have everything hooked up besides the knock sensor cuz i think the wire has been cut off the harness or something. but it sounds like it wants to start but i dont think it is getting fuel. i know it has pressure at the rail but i dont know if the injectors are firing. i tested all the sparkplugs and they are getting spark. anyone know anything else i could check out? it is also a series swap also. from s4 na to s5 turbo if that makes a difference.
Last edited by eff_three_see_es; 08-01-08 at 03:24 PM.
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
If it is a JDM S5 Tii you have to make sure the fuel lines are connected correctly. Actually, if it is a USDM S5 Tii you have to make sure the fuel lines are on correctly!
On a JDM, the front hardlines is in, the back one is the return line. The easy way to test is to put a length of fuel hose from the back hardline and into a gas can. Then jump the yellow connector under the air filter and turn the key to on. If you have it hooked up right, fuel will flow into the gas can. If you dont, it wont.
There is a check valve in there and the direction is critical.
Jim
On a JDM, the front hardlines is in, the back one is the return line. The easy way to test is to put a length of fuel hose from the back hardline and into a gas can. Then jump the yellow connector under the air filter and turn the key to on. If you have it hooked up right, fuel will flow into the gas can. If you dont, it wont.
There is a check valve in there and the direction is critical.
Jim
#7
lycanthrope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: lancaster ca
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
checked the fuel lines and they are fine, i pulled the plugs out and they are clean, no fuel on them at all. any other suggestions?would it be bad to try to start it with ether?
Trending Topics
#8
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 0
Received 131 Likes
on
114 Posts
if it starts with ETHER then you "know" you have spark.so if it Fires up,check Fuel...the fuel lines are a good starting point though..once you establish the Feed to the primary rail,then you get fuel to the Engine..also,check EGI fuses..Spark,grounds,etc,..,make sure the Afm is plugged in and the flapper is free..
#9
lycanthrope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: lancaster ca
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if it starts with ETHER then you "know" you have spark.so if it Fires up,check Fuel...the fuel lines are a good starting point though..once you establish the Feed to the primary rail,then you get fuel to the Engine..also,check EGI fuses..Spark,grounds,etc,..,make sure the Afm is plugged in and the flapper is free..
#11
lycanthrope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: lancaster ca
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
here is a video of it trying to start.
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i285.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid285.photobucket.com/albums/ll54/x13bxrotaryx/MVI_0169.flv">
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i285.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid285.photobucket.com/albums/ll54/x13bxrotaryx/MVI_0169.flv">
#12
1308ccs of awesome
iTrader: (9)
disconnect once of the primary spark plug wires. plug an extra spark plug into it and put it close to a bolt, but not touching it. try to start it and see if a spark jumps from the plug to the bolt. you have spark, so it's either fuel or timing.
which reminds me, have you checked the timing?
have you done a compression test?
which reminds me, have you checked the timing?
have you done a compression test?
#13
lycanthrope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: lancaster ca
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have not done a compression test. the person i bought it from assured me it was good.i got it to run on ether so i am going to check the injectors and the wiring now
#14
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
If your just talking about fuel injectors, and the fuel lines are on right and you have spark, there is a fairly easy way to check for the injectors pulsing or not.
That is IF you have a spare CAS, and I assume you do what with just doing a swap. You take the spare CAS and connect it to the harness then spin the lower gear on the CAS with your fingers with the key to ON.
Do that and the sparkplugs will spark and the fuel injectors will click. I'd recommend pulling a LEAD wire out of the bore of it's coil and let that wire just rest on the lip of the bore. Then spin the CAS gear. You should see spark b/t the coil and sparkplug wire.
So that would confirm spark without having to run down your starter etc. The problem is you might not be able to hear the primary injectors clicking with the sparkplugs clicking at the same time. So now you disable the Lead and Trail coils by pulling their elect plugs off. Then spin the CAS again. The clicking you hear now has to be the primary fuel injectors clicking. Should only click when the CAS is spun. If you hear clicking all the time, it's the BAC doing its duty cycle. Disconnect its plug and that will stop.
Make sense? Doing it that way you NEVER spin the starter which wears out the battery/starter/apex seals etc. Just key ON, spin the CAS gear.
That is IF you have a spare CAS, and I assume you do what with just doing a swap. You take the spare CAS and connect it to the harness then spin the lower gear on the CAS with your fingers with the key to ON.
Do that and the sparkplugs will spark and the fuel injectors will click. I'd recommend pulling a LEAD wire out of the bore of it's coil and let that wire just rest on the lip of the bore. Then spin the CAS gear. You should see spark b/t the coil and sparkplug wire.
So that would confirm spark without having to run down your starter etc. The problem is you might not be able to hear the primary injectors clicking with the sparkplugs clicking at the same time. So now you disable the Lead and Trail coils by pulling their elect plugs off. Then spin the CAS again. The clicking you hear now has to be the primary fuel injectors clicking. Should only click when the CAS is spun. If you hear clicking all the time, it's the BAC doing its duty cycle. Disconnect its plug and that will stop.
Make sense? Doing it that way you NEVER spin the starter which wears out the battery/starter/apex seals etc. Just key ON, spin the CAS gear.
#15
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
It's a virtual given that if you have spark, then the fuel injectors should be pulsing as the CAS/engine is turning over. They are both more or less driven off the CAS signal to the ECU. If the ECU grounds were not there, then you'd have no spark either.
#17
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
EDIT: Just in case you can't do the above for unknown reasons, do this for sure. Buy a single can of STARTER FLUID. Now spray for two seconds max into the air filter or the snorkel leading to the air filter. Now try to start the car. If it starts for a moment, then sure enough you have a fuel/fuel injector problem. Good to hear you have spark.
Tell us this, if you jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and key to ON, can you HEAR fuel running constantly thru the fuel rails and back to the fuel tank. SHOULD hear that. If not, let us know.
EDIT: Sorry, I see someone else suggested using Ether (starting fluid). And from what I know, the afm is not used during START. It is only used after 500rpm have been obtained.
Last edited by HAILERS; 08-02-08 at 05:44 PM.
#18
lycanthrope
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: lancaster ca
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shoulda heard them. Even I can hear them. So, they don't click. First thing I'd do is go to the ECU, pull it's plugs off and key to ON. Then see with a meter if there is batt voltage on the four fuel injector wires in the PLUG (NOT the ECU pins, the wires in the plug.
EDIT: Just in case you can't do the above for unknown reasons, do this for sure. Buy a single can of STARTER FLUID. Now spray for two seconds max into the air filter or the snorkel leading to the air filter. Now try to start the car. If it starts for a moment, then sure enough you have a fuel/fuel injector problem. Good to hear you have spark.
Tell us this, if you jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and key to ON, can you HEAR fuel running constantly thru the fuel rails and back to the fuel tank. SHOULD hear that. If not, let us know.
EDIT: Sorry, I see someone else suggested using Ether (starting fluid). And from what I know, the afm is not used during START. It is only used after 500rpm have been obtained.
EDIT: Just in case you can't do the above for unknown reasons, do this for sure. Buy a single can of STARTER FLUID. Now spray for two seconds max into the air filter or the snorkel leading to the air filter. Now try to start the car. If it starts for a moment, then sure enough you have a fuel/fuel injector problem. Good to hear you have spark.
Tell us this, if you jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and key to ON, can you HEAR fuel running constantly thru the fuel rails and back to the fuel tank. SHOULD hear that. If not, let us know.
EDIT: Sorry, I see someone else suggested using Ether (starting fluid). And from what I know, the afm is not used during START. It is only used after 500rpm have been obtained.
#19
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Please loosen the RETURN line and see if fuel flows out FROM the engine side. Pumps gonna run no matter if the fuel lines are on right or wrong. You should be able to HEAR fuel flowing thru the fuel rails constantly......if everything is plumbed right. IF it's plumbed wrong you won't hear the flow of fuel in the rails. Bye.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rx7jocke
Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
72
06-17-16 03:48 AM