TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Anybody got some good pics of the turbo feed lines (to and from), for the turbo?

My coolant feed line is hooked up, but not the return and I'm NOT leaking coolant (WTF?!?!) and I can't seem to locate placement for the oil ones.

Does the TB mod cut coolant feed to the turbo or how could I check to see why coolant's not getting that far, down-stream?

'Course, now that I think about it, it's not pissing oil OR coolant via the turbo, or it's source lines.

I have the entire FSM and it shows a jumper-pipe (Pg. 3 in "Scott89T2's" PDF), marked 'A' that goes from the turbo return line, back to the engine.

It appears that I'm missing BOTH oil feeds and something that supposed to adjoin the coolant return, but the FSM doesn't show it

Can anybody help me out, here?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Oil feed line comes from a hard line through banjo bolt on the top of the front iron.
Oil return is two pieces. One bolts to the front cover, one bolts to the bottom of the turbo, and they connect with a gasket.

Coolant is fed by the LIM through coolant that flows through the passageway in the (rear?) iron. It's possible someone blocked off the passageway when the engine was built. Coolant return is a short pipe connected to the turbo with a rubber line connecting to the waterpump housing.

Check for the banjo bolt... it's M12x 1.50 I believe

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

arghx is right

I can take pics of mines and post it up.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

You guys are awesome. Thanks a TON!

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

<a href="http://img26.imageshack.us/i/20100917143501edit.jpg/" target="_blank"><img src="http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1427/20100917143501edit.th.jpg" border="0"/></a>
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TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

I found an extra, open ended hose, just aft of the hardline coming off of the bottom of the turbo... Coolant return, I guess?

Needs a home. Hm.

As well, I shot a walking video so I'll post a link, as soon as I get up uploaded to the server.

I think the biggest oddity is that when the engine's running, there isn't any liquid leaking from ANYWHERE. No oil, not coolant, not NOTHIN'.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

So here're some pics:









So about those vac-lines...

I found that the bottom, on the front has reference, but none of the ones to the aft. Up until this evening, I had the Gauge, BOV and BRS attatched to the main nipple, above the turbo, on the UIM, b/c I KNEW that one had vac...

Though my BOV isn't opening.

Do certain nipples get boost/ vac under certain conditions, or shouldn't they be under affect, all the time?

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

Check the tension on your spring.

The way bov's work, you want JUST enough spring tension to keep the thing closed under positive pressure, not cranked down. Either try cutting a coil off your spring, getting a lighter spring or playing with the tension. If it leaks under boost, then you can crank it a bit or change springs.

It also works to hook a handheld vac pump to it and make sure it's moving

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

I wasn't sure if it was due to tension pressure or vac... Since I seem to be having some funky vac issues, I couldn't really pin it down. In theory, if I back the screw ALL the way out, JUST SO it holds vac (just barely sealed) it should pop right open...

Course that's dependent upon vac levels, to begin with....

If I can EVER get the damned vid to DL off of my camera, I'll post it on my server and show you guys the start-up and idle readings, on the gauge.

Until then...

*shrug*


Lastly, what are the little hoses that are all fused together, in the middle of the picture, above the box in my pic#2?

Zerkster

iTrader: (22)

Coolant return line is correct however from the angle I cant tell if you have a turbo or non turbo water pump housing. TII water pump housings have a nipple right there that the rubber line connects to.

Also its been awhile since I opened my hood but iirc you may have an NA front cover, which wouldnt have an opening for the coolant return, that would also explain the NA water pump housing.

And that bundle of hoses is your Oil Metering Pump lines, and the actuator is blocked off, so if your car ever runs, run premix or fix the OMP and connect the actuating rod to the throttle body.
EDIT: unless your running S5 electronics, then just bolt on the S5 OMP and plug it in

hope any of that helped

Oh and to your concern about it not pissing coolant everywhere when you start it, did you run it long enough to open the thermostat? I wouldnt start it anymore until you find a home for all your hoses

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Was told it was S5 Tii Harness and ECU... Interestingly enough, Oil pressure doesn't move, on the dash (as you'll see by the videos). That ****'s higher than Towelie at a Cheech and Chong concert on 420.

Additionally, the MIDDLE plug on the ECU (OMP, O2, CAS, etc) was unplugged but didn't seem to change anything, when I plugged it back in).

D-OH! Didn't even think about the thermo not opening, yet, when I was idling it... BUT! What about not pissing oil?

Videos:

http://www.utistunts.com/DbA/S5%20Tii/StartAndRev.MPG - 59MB

Now... Before anyone says ANYTHING, I know I mis-speak when I call the oil return the coolant... TWICE. I realized that when I watched the clip.

Give me a break, man. I've only been sleeping, like 2-4 hours a day, for over a week.

http://www.utistunts.com/DbA/S5%20Tii/Desc.MPG - 235MB

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Okay...

After talking a bit, to 'FloRotory,' we've come to the general concensus that the FIRST thing I need to do is figure out WTF kind of engine, it is, to begin with.


How can I identify whether or not it's ACTUALLY a TII, or not? It has an S5 UIM and it's 4-port (no 6-port actuators and no visible block-offs - weren't only the TIIs 4-port?), but other than that, how can I tell this actually IS a true Turbo engine?

As well, I 'm looking at the pics of the engine (since the car, itself, is actually at my shop and I'm at home) and finding the plate on the housings shows only (what LOOKS like '4B Mazda' and no VIN.

Any help, here? I can subit some of the pics I've got, if that'll help any, but the resolution's down at 640x480, so any enhancement's going to muck it all up.

florotory

as far as the oil feed line look in the "pics of your engine bay" thread page 10 or 11 i think. there is a perfect pic of where it goes. Oh and i looked on ebay for a set of OMP lines for you and all i found was s4.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Thread link?

florotory

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/post-pics-your-engine-bay-834467/page10/

post 244

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

if it is really a 4 port and it has 13b stamped on it next to the oil dipstick area then its a turbo engine block.
Another way is to take off the turbo and its manifold and look at the exhaust port. If it has a diffuser, its a N/a engine.
You can also take off the intake manifolds, and check to see if it is a n/a engine by looking at the ports. If it looked like the manifold was port matched to the engine block, its a N/a engine. Also as far as I know, for your no leaking coolant problem, the coolant is flowed from the engine block through the LIM, through a runner, and out that port for the turbo. I am pretty sure (correct me if I am wrong) that the n/a engine does not have that port ont eh engine block to flow the coolant through, hence, no coolant coming out.
I am thinking that this is a n/a turbo engine, only because of the front housing. its from a S5 n/a, hence the no nipple for the coolant return from the turbo, and no oil return opening for the extension tubes.
Also.....the the tube where you pour oil in....that design is only for a N/a engine. A turbo engine has it bend 90 degrees towards the front instead of sticking straight out like that.

As far as the vacuum hoses, most of them are emissions related if I remember. If the guy took out the emission parts, it should be blocked off. The Fuel pressure regulator should have a vacuum hose going to one of the rear vacuum ports though, either to the TB or one of the hidden ones between the UIM and LIM, you should check on that just to be sure.
You can use one of the vacuum port thats in the front for the BOV or boost gauge.

If you look at the post 244 from the link above, the 5th picture in that post, next to the CAS, thats where the oil for the turbo comes from, thats the oil feed to the turbo.




edit
also wtf at the crazy AFM hook up LOL
never seen that before, I would think that it would interfere with the BOV operation.
When you lift off, the air has no where to go except backwards. But the afm flap door doesnt move backwards....I dunno. Crazy setup
I am seeing many things that is evident of a N/a turbo engine.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

It *IS* a 4-port (looked specifically for the 6-port actuators) and it DOES have 13B stamped...

Hell. *I'm* really hoping I didn't get an S5 NA-T.

DAMN I'll be pissed. That bike had almost 9k in the engine... NTM the other bits.

:fuming:

Edit:

I was wondering about the AFM bit, too... Where should it go? on the compressor (inlet)-side of the turbo or PRE-BOV?

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

The 6 port actuators are built into the N/A LIM.
You got a S5 TII LIM, it wont have the actuators on. To be sure, you can pull off the intake manifolds and look at the ports itself. A 6 port N/A block will look way different from a Turbo block.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Thats a N/a block.

Also, I believe that the coolant plug on the left side is the coolant feed for the turbo.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Ah. I was thinking of the S4 6-port where those suckers stand out like Pamela Anderson's nipples on a cold day.

Only the NA has the 6-port, though, right?

As well, could the AFM being where it is cause the same symptoms of secondaries going out at 4k?

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Yes only the N/A's were 6 port. It looks like that is an N/A front cover at least. Probably the whole engine. Does the car run? Post pics of the whole engine bay.

bumpstart

it has an NA front cover ( and pump ) ,, a s4 one
and the turbo he has is an s5 one
hence the long oil drain pipe that goes into the front ( not side ) of the s5 timing cover
( s4 goes into the side near the OMP,,,s5 has the much bulkier EOMP,, different water pump inlet pipe angle ,, and the oil drain taps in on the FRONT )


for the OP

you have a s4 NA front timing cover and water pump ,, sans oil return and water return from the turbo
the turbo you have is an s5 unit,, its drain goes to a different spot on a s5 timing cover ( compared to s4 )

you need to get a s4 turbo timing cover and water pump
( and make a custom oil hose drain to make that one fit the s4 timing cover )

else,, you need the s5 timing cover ( and water pump ) though this brings complications on how to run the EOMP



however,, shortcuts --
in your shoes,, s4 turbo timing cover,, custom drain
( you could try to see if you can use the s4 turbo drain but methinks its not quite right in regard to turbo position )
the water pump can be got around,,, you have already mentioned deletion of the wax cam
-- simply blank the inlet manifold crossover ( for turbo coolant via the back of the LIM )

and use the wax cams source and destination,, for the turbo
ie,, sources from rear plate top,, goes to turbo and returns to the rear of the water pump

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

So basically what everyone's saying is that I got completely fucked by trading a track-prepped, street-legal race bike worth almost 10k for an S4.5 wanna be turbo POS?

******* great.

bumpstart

well, i cant vouch for what the rest of the car is,, it may well have been turbo all along and somebody has done this to it ( removed the turbo and put on the NA front and water pump )
to get around insurance hassles

if its a turbo car,, then there is nothing bad here,, just needs a few mods,, and a timing cover swap to get it right
( as posted above you can use the NA water pump if you use the wax cam sources to put water through the turbo )

Jobro

iTrader: (2)

6port turbos go hard, chill out.

TrboSpdAnt

iTrader: (5)

Sorry bro. Just pissed that this is getting to be a bigger hemorrhoid than it started off as, the car's at my shop - about a half-hour away, and I'm catching all kinds of flak from the fiance b/c she wanted me to sell the bike and make out a ton better...

Track-bikes going for the greater part of 10k isn't unheard of, nor uncommon.

Not having the car HERE, at the house, makes it severely frustrating b/c it's like trying to remotely debug your own code without knowing what it is (kinda like walking through someone ELSE'S house, in the pitch-black darkness).

So... *BIG sigh* Under the rapidly growing assumption that it's ACTUALLY an S4.5 NA, what can/ should/ do I need to do to get this ****** on the road without spending any MORE money that I'm already out?

I mean, logistically, I have everything FOR the boost, minus the proper ease of assembly, right?