S5 Tii Oil > Turbo pics?
#76
talking head
3-. ditch the 6 p sleeves and then weld up the casting reliefs on the face of the turbo LIM
have the flange faced off,, and use a 6p gasket to mark out the pattern onto the turbo LIM
open up the common areas with the die grinder ,, all as pictured in my posts
if you do not fill, face and file the LIM,, it may bolt up,, but will have huge vac leaks as the casting reliefs in the turbo LIM happen to be over the 6 ports
have the flange faced off,, and use a 6p gasket to mark out the pattern onto the turbo LIM
open up the common areas with the die grinder ,, all as pictured in my posts
if you do not fill, face and file the LIM,, it may bolt up,, but will have huge vac leaks as the casting reliefs in the turbo LIM happen to be over the 6 ports
#77
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I see what you're talking about...
What about the open water feed hole, on the LIM, though? It's the 1-or-so inch hold on the flange-face between the middele and bottom ports (bottom pic).
I'm not terribly concerned about it, since I routed a coolant line to the coolant supply hardpipe, on the turbo, but was curious as what you did with it.
What about the open water feed hole, on the LIM, though? It's the 1-or-so inch hold on the flange-face between the middele and bottom ports (bottom pic).
I'm not terribly concerned about it, since I routed a coolant line to the coolant supply hardpipe, on the turbo, but was curious as what you did with it.
#79
talking head
I see what you're talking about...
What about the open water feed hole, on the LIM, though? It's the 1-or-so inch hold on the flange-face between the middele and bottom ports (bottom pic).
I'm not terribly concerned about it, since I routed a coolant line to the coolant supply hardpipe, on the turbo, but was curious as what you did with it.
What about the open water feed hole, on the LIM, though? It's the 1-or-so inch hold on the flange-face between the middele and bottom ports (bottom pic).
I'm not terribly concerned about it, since I routed a coolant line to the coolant supply hardpipe, on the turbo, but was curious as what you did with it.
-- they do give up eventually,, and taking the turbo and LIM off to fix a 10 cent O ring is never fun
PS i also use the metal putty to seal off the ACV passages
-ie- the other square emissions routing ports under the secs and under the primaries ( depending on the core block )
Last edited by bumpstart; 09-26-10 at 09:52 PM.
#81
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Sooooooo.....
The brief, before I head into the shop, for the day:
Mike and I didn't get nearly as much done, as anticipated, yesterday.... Got main bub + pulley on (clutch down the whole time), EOMP arrived AS WE WERE WORKING ON THE CAR (that was ******* awesome, and a +++ to Alex), ran EOMP system hoses to oil squirters - with a snag... The S4 OMP only has 2 bolts.... The S5 Tii has 3 and the bottom hole (left) is about twice as long as the others... Need another bolt).
As well, since I swapped over the front cover, from S4 NA, to S5 Tii, I didn't even THINK to take into accommodation that the core hub of the water pump pulley is bigger on the S5. (if you look into the core of the WP pulley, there's a circle that stabilizes the pulley on the WP hub. The S4 is smaller than the S5 and there0fore I cab't use the WP pulley, I have.
/other than that, I can't think of anything else we got done... God damned, ******* Florida weather. Rain has a way of inhibiting progress.
So now I need the following:
S5 Tii WP Pulley;
EOMP bolt;
Upper radiator hose (S4 is shorter than S5);
Fitting from Lamco to Turbo;
Oil;
Plugs;
Key and
A prayer
I think that's it. Mike, you figure up anything else?
Now it starts to nick and dime me.
The brief, before I head into the shop, for the day:
Mike and I didn't get nearly as much done, as anticipated, yesterday.... Got main bub + pulley on (clutch down the whole time), EOMP arrived AS WE WERE WORKING ON THE CAR (that was ******* awesome, and a +++ to Alex), ran EOMP system hoses to oil squirters - with a snag... The S4 OMP only has 2 bolts.... The S5 Tii has 3 and the bottom hole (left) is about twice as long as the others... Need another bolt).
As well, since I swapped over the front cover, from S4 NA, to S5 Tii, I didn't even THINK to take into accommodation that the core hub of the water pump pulley is bigger on the S5. (if you look into the core of the WP pulley, there's a circle that stabilizes the pulley on the WP hub. The S4 is smaller than the S5 and there0fore I cab't use the WP pulley, I have.
/other than that, I can't think of anything else we got done... God damned, ******* Florida weather. Rain has a way of inhibiting progress.
So now I need the following:
S5 Tii WP Pulley;
EOMP bolt;
Upper radiator hose (S4 is shorter than S5);
Fitting from Lamco to Turbo;
Oil;
Plugs;
Key and
A prayer
I think that's it. Mike, you figure up anything else?
Now it starts to nick and dime me.
#86
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I haven't started the car, yet, as I'm ISO the S5 Tii Water-pump pulley.
How is this easily sorted out before starting? Assuming that there IS a problem with the bearing, you've explained how to find out (more details would be good), and how is it fixed?
How is this easily sorted out before starting? Assuming that there IS a problem with the bearing, you've explained how to find out (more details would be good), and how is it fixed?
#87
talking head
the easy fix
( easier than the total engine rebuild when you find out the hard way you've pinched the torrington )
is pull the engine out and do it as was recommended in the first place
sit it on the flywheel
and pull down the timing cover,, and front stack,, then start again
the trick for easy quick assembly is NOT to take the keyway nut off the oil pump
instead remove the whole pump intact from its four base 10mm nuts
there is nothing tricky under there,, just take note of the order that things are in ,, or use the FSM
( easier than the total engine rebuild when you find out the hard way you've pinched the torrington )
is pull the engine out and do it as was recommended in the first place
sit it on the flywheel
and pull down the timing cover,, and front stack,, then start again
the trick for easy quick assembly is NOT to take the keyway nut off the oil pump
instead remove the whole pump intact from its four base 10mm nuts
there is nothing tricky under there,, just take note of the order that things are in ,, or use the FSM
#88
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Okay. Checked from the under-side inspection cover of the trans...
Since I couldn't be above AND below the engine, at the same time, I had my fiance put her hand on the pulley while I put forward pressure on the flywheel.
She said there was some play, but it was minuscule...
Is there a certain amount of play there should be, in a gauge-able measurement?
Since I couldn't be above AND below the engine, at the same time, I had my fiance put her hand on the pulley while I put forward pressure on the flywheel.
She said there was some play, but it was minuscule...
Is there a certain amount of play there should be, in a gauge-able measurement?
#89
talking head
its measurable if you have a mag block and dial setup and have the engine out
if its in,, an almost imperceptible and minimal movement is what we need to hear
no-movement and for sure you have pinched that torrington
and if you read the good bad and ugly
there is currently a dispute where the owner {badly} repaired his own front seal leak
and killed the engine due to not displacing the clutch 100% of the time
( and trying to stick that onto the last workshop ! )
this is what i was forewarning you of ,, all those posts ago
and in view of the have we/ haven't we mental anguish,, is why i always initially recommended the engine out,, cant go wrong approach
ima sincerely hoping you have got it all good,,,, as the consequences are a tricky complete rebuild
i suggest you get her to pump the clutch while you have a hand on both the flywheel ( through the inspection cover )
and the front pulleys
you should be able to feel a very minimal movement
-- this tolerance you feel is akin to the sum of the four oil films either side of the torrington stack
-- essential to be there,, and essential its not excessive as well
PS
spec is 0.02 mm ( 0.0004 inches )
if its in,, an almost imperceptible and minimal movement is what we need to hear
no-movement and for sure you have pinched that torrington
and if you read the good bad and ugly
there is currently a dispute where the owner {badly} repaired his own front seal leak
and killed the engine due to not displacing the clutch 100% of the time
( and trying to stick that onto the last workshop ! )
this is what i was forewarning you of ,, all those posts ago
and in view of the have we/ haven't we mental anguish,, is why i always initially recommended the engine out,, cant go wrong approach
ima sincerely hoping you have got it all good,,,, as the consequences are a tricky complete rebuild
i suggest you get her to pump the clutch while you have a hand on both the flywheel ( through the inspection cover )
and the front pulleys
you should be able to feel a very minimal movement
-- this tolerance you feel is akin to the sum of the four oil films either side of the torrington stack
-- essential to be there,, and essential its not excessive as well
PS
spec is 0.02 mm ( 0.0004 inches )
Last edited by bumpstart; 10-03-10 at 09:43 PM. Reason: PS
#90
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Did the clutch thing, having her in the car, and I was in front, hand on flywheel and front pulley...
First depression of the clutch, definitely felt the movement, after that, not. I have, also drained the oil from the engine, so I don't know what effect, if any this would've had.
And I'm STILL waiting on my damned pulley!
First depression of the clutch, definitely felt the movement, after that, not. I have, also drained the oil from the engine, so I don't know what effect, if any this would've had.
And I'm STILL waiting on my damned pulley!
#91
talking head
Ok,, some movement is good,, and pretty much rules out the pinch
as that amounts to absolutely no movement ever,, until of course everything has **** itself
relax for now,,, and i know your going to hate this,, but i literally have a fruit crate full of water pump pulleys,, in aus !
as that amounts to absolutely no movement ever,, until of course everything has **** itself
relax for now,,, and i know your going to hate this,, but i literally have a fruit crate full of water pump pulleys,, in aus !
#92
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Lol. Gee, thanks... How much an S5 Tii shipped to 33643, Florida; US?
I paid for one, via PayPal, from 'Drama,' on here, but haven't heard ANYTHING in a couple days - money cleared two days ago.
Will lodge complaint in a couple of days, to PayPal, if nothing further. Someone also dropped it into my ear that he's had problems, before, about shipping people's things.
I paid for one, via PayPal, from 'Drama,' on here, but haven't heard ANYTHING in a couple days - money cleared two days ago.
Will lodge complaint in a couple of days, to PayPal, if nothing further. Someone also dropped it into my ear that he's had problems, before, about shipping people's things.
#93
talking head
hah,, if i shipped it,, you'd be waiting 8 weeks plus for it while your customs argues over its taxable worth
myself,, if stuck , would have bought one of the pyramid shaped self centering hole drill thingmies
-- that allow you to oversize that centering spigot on a s4 pulley to suit s5
myself,, if stuck , would have bought one of the pyramid shaped self centering hole drill thingmies
-- that allow you to oversize that centering spigot on a s4 pulley to suit s5
#95
talking head
balance ,, not really,, as long as you did a good centering job whilst oversizing that spigot hole
worth a crack for the meantime while you wait for a good one to turn up
worth a crack for the meantime while you wait for a good one to turn up
#96
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Bring the man a pint!
So I head off, (Uhm, tomorrow) to buy a titanium stepper bit!
IF it works, great! If not.... Well, EVENTUALLY my pulley will arrive.
Eventually.
So I head off, (Uhm, tomorrow) to buy a titanium stepper bit!
IF it works, great! If not.... Well, EVENTUALLY my pulley will arrive.
Eventually.
#98
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Wasn't really sure, but I was pretty certain I wouldn't need one JUST for this. Of course, you never know when you need one, but the only thing I'd also need one for is mounting the wing.... I believe that's about it.
#99
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Well, since I hadn't heard bupkiss from Drama about my pulley, I opted to go the drilling route.
Instead of using a stepper bit, I determined that it was a 13mm bore and wend to grinding away, bit by bit....
VICTORY!!
I has an over-bored, 8-bolt NA pulley on the S5 pump!
As well, I went to my local 'Advanced' and picked up a pack of bolts, a metal jumper-pipe for the radiator hose (which can pull double duty for my water-temp gauge), and a pair of hose-clamps.
Now I have (nearly everything I need!
'Scuze me while I do a stupid dance....
(No, I'm NOT irish, but it's a pic from one of the websites I manage)
Instead of using a stepper bit, I determined that it was a 13mm bore and wend to grinding away, bit by bit....
VICTORY!!
I has an over-bored, 8-bolt NA pulley on the S5 pump!
As well, I went to my local 'Advanced' and picked up a pack of bolts, a metal jumper-pipe for the radiator hose (which can pull double duty for my water-temp gauge), and a pair of hose-clamps.
Now I have (nearly everything I need!
'Scuze me while I do a stupid dance....
(No, I'm NOT irish, but it's a pic from one of the websites I manage)
#100
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Sooo... Here's where I sit, finished for today:
Front:
Top:
D-Side:
P-Side:
And I got the wing on, today!
I haven't decided if I'm going to continue anymore, tonight.... The fiance may have my head.
Meh.
Front:
Top:
D-Side:
P-Side:
And I got the wing on, today!
I haven't decided if I'm going to continue anymore, tonight.... The fiance may have my head.
Meh.