dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

I got my na setup done, and tried to start it but it wouldnt start, it would try to start but not, then i just thought to push the lever on the AFM and it just started, so the lever has to be kept open for it to stay alive. But when its on the engine, it wont let it keep itself alive idling.....Its a s4 na afm, my engine is s5 na but with a s4 wiring harness. I did wire the throttle positioning sensor, just three of the wires from one sensor, a red green black wire I think? and all emissions are plugged off, so tehre no vacuum leak...
heelppp is it a bad AFM??? it used to work fine for my t2 setup..

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

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my hand is inside the afm to keep the lever partially open , its not hooked up to the throttle body,something is up with the afm, I think, or is it because I took out the 5/6th port sleeves?? When i was building the motor i was wondering if you really need the adjustable sleeves, maybe its too much air now? but how would that affect the afm problem? shoudl i find a s5 na afm?Oh and i also used t2 injectors for secondary fuel rail... any ideas guys? sorry im noobie, first time working on a NA rotary with 6 port...had t2 all my rx7 life.....

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

oh im using a s4 na ECU AND the s4 na wiring harness thats setup for turbo 2, bu t ijust used it on the na setup tosee if it works...everything on the engines fuel rail is s5 na....so i just have a mix and matched motor setup...it could be why, I need S5 afm, and ecu, and harness maybe anyone have ideas?

Druken

From searching around, The ECU's/Harnesses/Manifolds between the S4 and S5 changed a bit. I think if you really want to get this swap done faster and easier then I'd suggest getting a S5 n/a donor car or something and swap everything over from your S4 setup to the S5. The S4 seems to be more of a mechanical based setup while the S5 is more electronic since everything is pretty much ran through the ecu. Because the ecu tries to correct any problems, triggers switches, etc, if it sees that the AFM/OMP/etc arn't plugged in or isn't working properly the engine will run limp to prevent internal damages. Because you are running a complete S5 setup with S4 parts, everything isn't going to be a plug and play situation since each series were kind of made for their series engine.

-But I'd say try and clean your AFM first. If that doesn't work then try the S5 AFM. If that doesn't work then I'd suggest converting everything to the S5. But thats just my .02 cents.

HAILERS

It's basically a series four non turbo car. The engines are not that different if non turbo engines. The series four afm should work.

The problem MIGHT be the TPS wiring. What TPS are you using? The series five is quite a bit different in that it has two sensors vs the series four single plunger/sensor. Once again, what did you do to make this series five TPS work on a series four harness/ECU????

Jumper the yellow two socket fuel pump check connector to see it that'll keep it runing without pushing the vane in the afm.

Sounds a little like a very large air leak ........somewhere. PUshing the afm vane aft makes the fuel pump run. But it should also run anytime the key is HELD to Start. Jumpering the fuel pump check connector should shed some light.

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

i used the tps on teh very outside of the TB. I spliced the three wires, and connected to my harness, ill post pics later. its hard to explain. but maybe i have to hookup both sensors..because on my t2 I only hoooked up one sensor, and itworked fine... il try jump[ing that plug, thx


dk

HAILERS

No. Only one of the sensors is needed. IT would be the one that is fully extended when the throttle is only partially open. Fully extended just as the secondary plates start to open is the one. Don't use the one that is fully extended when the throttle plates are fully open.

You'd look at the jpgs attached and determine which wires are the NARROW RANGE three wires and couple them to your series four TPS HARNESS plug wires.

The Brown/White wire in the HARNESS plug would couple with the *A* pin on the TPS plug. I'm too lazy to figure out the other two wires right now.

One way to check out to see if you wired it right, is you'd go to the green/red wire on the harness side of the plug and backprobe it with a meter. With a fully hot engine it will show approx one volt dc, key ON. Then slowly open the throttle and watch the meter. The voltage should rise as you open the throttle and show 4-4.5 vdc when the plunger is fully extended on that TPS (the one that is fully open when the throttle is only partially open).

I believe the plug shown on the right, is looking directly into the series five tps plug. Its wires are on the other side of that plug.

It goes without saying that the A, B, C sockets are the ones that are Narrow Range and the ones to connect to.

HAILERS

EDIT: The Brown/Black on your EM harness side of the plug should go to *B* and the Brown/White on your EM harness plug should go to *C* on the TPS harness plug.

I don't know the color of the wires in the TPS's short harness.

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

wow hailers you really know alot !! Thanks, Il check on it today , was busy yesterday. i think i used the red brown green wire, leme checkk..........will post pics....bbbbllll also where is that plug that ican jump to boost the fuel pump??icantfind it and what does it look like exactly

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

UH.... you need to have the hose to the throttle body from the afm connected...

Ramses666

HAILERS

Someone post the jpg of where the fuel pump check connector is. It's circled in his picture. I know that is a turbo, but non turbo have it in the same area. It might be stuffed down in the wiring harness. Search that general area to find it. Then jumper the two sockets in it with a piece of wire bare at each end. Then turn the key ON. LIsten for the pump to run. Should.

You DO have all your ducting b/t the afm and throttle body on. Right??????

Turbo fuel injectors in the seondary fuel rail are a problem if this is a non turbo engine. When you hit 3800 rpm under LOAD, the things gonna bogg down big time imho.

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

the wiring on the TPS i did was the exact same as you said to do hailers, and also the non fully extened tps as well. I believe you are right too, i dont hear the fuel pump primering when the key is on, but when i push the afm vane it turns on, so i need to find that fuel pump check plug. Icant find any yellow plugs, but there is a white plug nearthe pass. shock tower, with red/black wire and two pronged. should i jump this???

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

i found the yellow plug , should i wire + and -12v to it?When I use a test light grounded touch the positive of the prong i can hear fuel primeing the injectors. So the problem here is when the car is on key on pposition the fuel pump isnt primering, but when i push the vane of the afm, the fuel primes and it starts, s... should i try to run12v to that yellow plug ???

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

running 12v to that plug doesnt do anything, but only when i run negative ground into the positive part of that yellow plug it starts the fuel pump. then after i try to start it cranking over and over it will prime on it ownn...But it still wont be able to start without starter fluid or pushing the vane of the afm. and once it does start it wont hold idle without pushing on the vane of the afm. When i let go of the vane it will rev high and die.... if i just try to start it with key on then starter , it takes like 5 min. before engine will try to start but wont... its relying on starter fluid or pushing on the vane of afm to start. and it wont hold its idle without holding the vane of the afm.. weirddddddddddddd.. man im stumped, im checking for vac. leaks now... OH another thing, non of the solenoids are hooked up to the wiring harness because i blocked and capped off the vacuum , so is that okay?

what else can i try to do??

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

damn cops came to my house saying neighbor complaind about the noise and pollution from my car. and cops says icant work outside on the driveway it has to be in the garage, and they gave me a warning ,saying next time theyll tow away my car if they get more complaints..damnnn

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

In your video you don't have the giant hose from the AFM to the throttle body connected - your car will do exactly what is happenning if you don't have this hose connected... What are you thinking? Let alone the BAC air hose & the injector bleeds that also go to the big hose. The car might just start & then die very quickly without this hose & AFM connected to the throttlebody.

Ramses666

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

its connected today, I bought a coupling tube for s5 na from throtle body to MAF meter. Its still same problems, the bac valve is blocked off, all emmisions blocked off, and nipples for vacuum plugged....becuz emissions vacuum is too complicated, so i made it simple by blocking it off...im towing the car to shop tmrw, JRX rotary..they know what theyre doing after all they done so many great work especialuy the BRS FD in D1gp, hopefuly theycan getmy car going right..

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

You have zero vacuum lines?!? That's not going to work. The vacuum lines can be simplified but not removed altogether. The Rotary Resurrection website has detailed write-ups with pictures on how to properly remove the emissions from your vehicle. Your signiture says you are in california? How is it that your gonna remove all the emmissions and not get busted & fined?

Have you thought this through properly? If routing some vacuum lines is beyond your capability then your going to really have trouble getting a swap to function correctly & not blow it up real good. The BAC valve is not an emissions item, it increases the idle when the steering wheel is turned or the AC is on or brakes are being held down - when the load at idle increases the BAC keeps the engine from stalling. You should be doing more homework & less hacking - find the patience to learn & understand what everything does and you will be more successful.

There many people here who will help you, but you need to try learning before doing. The vacuum lines can be intimidating at first, but you'll be much more confident when you really know what is going on instead of just hooking stuff up.

Ramses666

HAILERS

I flat missed that duct missing in the video. So much for this thread. Bye, bye.