shocker003

could any one that knows the afm specs or that might have one laying around please confirm?

fuel and emissions control says that e2 and vs pins should be with in 200-1000 oHMs closed(does that mean at rest with the car off?), and 20-800 ohms open( does that mean pushed all the way in?)

based on the manual it looks like as it breaths the resistance should drop, is that correct? or should it rise?

could someone please post what theirs reads open and closed?

also do Na turbo s4 and s5 all have the same main front pulleys?
i ask because i think my timing might be off and im guessing the front pulley
might be the cause.

thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

To do the test as suggested in the manual the AFM plug needs to be disconnected so the car has to be off.

shocker003

thanks for the input

the afm was pulled from the car and tested, i would just like to see what you guys have for measurements

Bamato

iTrader: (6)

Mine tests within range of the fsm. If you're within spec, what's your concern?

shocker003

fsm is vary accurate, seems to be alot of room.
i have a NF01 (20B 3 rotor) afm and what to see what you guys have as far as readings. my n370 afm went out so im giong to see if i can get the 20B afm to work.

HAILERS2

Speaking of series four AFM..............FSM gives you item to check out but even if they check out you can have a misrigged AFM if someone played/screwed with/monkey'd with the spring tension or with the bypass air screw. Either will make the thing unusable on a stk ECU.

shocker003

i meant to write that the fms "isnt, as in is not" vary accurate.

as for the pulley question: "also do Na turbo s4 and s5 all have the same main front pulleys?
i ask because i think my timing might be off and im guessing the front pulley
might be the cause."

looks like there is different ones. i dont know what the one i have on there right now came off of but the one i got with the swap is a red one (ill try and post pics). it looks like the one that is on there right now is advanced a little more then the jdm turbo II pulley.

pic1: unknown pulley
pic2: dissy with unknown pulley. thats by linning up the dot on the dissy gear and linning it up with the arrow on the dissy housing at the bottom and then putting it in. notice the dissy "ear" is at the middle of the dissy boly.
pic3 is with the turbo pulley, i did not move the e-shaft, just swapped pulleys with bolt holes lined up.
pic4: is same as pic 3 just edited it so that you can see the maks, black= trailing and the yellow mark is leading.

any input?

Furb

iTrader: (2)

Hub and pulley should never be separated or interchanged, as they are made as a set.

Put on another one and there is a chance that timing is off. Mazda design flaw..

HAILERS2

I'd bet that when the dot on the bottom of the CAS is aligned with the fixed mark on the CASs body.............................that when you then look into the top of the CAS......it DOES NOT look as you show in your second picture.

When the marks are lined up on the bottom of the CAS the top of the CAS will show the "pointers" on the top of the rotor of the CAS, cutting across the corners of the black reluctors, NOT pointing at the center of the reluctors as shown in your picture.

marclong

iTrader: (1)

What's a dissy?. Do you mean dizzy? Which you don't have. Confused