2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

S5 ABS pump motor removal repair

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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 01:32 AM
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RX7 FC S5 Turbo II
 
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From: YORKSHIRE
S5 ABS pump motor removal repair

I have the ABS warning light on. Following the FSM my pump is testing open circuit >1M ohm
Can the motor be removed off the pump in situ without disturbing the hydraulics? The brakes work fine, just no ABS.

id like to try get inside the motor to see if it’s repairable without disturbing the working system.

thanks

Last edited by dsrfct2; Jul 15, 2025 at 07:54 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 08:27 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
There are a pair of relays on top of the thing, they like to fail. no need to pull the whole unit, until it starts leaking

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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 08:37 AM
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From: YORKSHIRE
Thanks, the relays are ok, if I put 12V direct on the post on the motor its doesn't run. Its high resistance/ open circuit.
I need to take the motor off but leave the pump section in place, doesn't look like it breaks into the lines, but I need to be sure.
Like this, but leave the hydraulic section on the car.


Photo borrowed from another post.
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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 01:05 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i think the list of O Rings have been posted somewhere. The pump has a ton of O Rings in it, but other than getting those, its really simple
there is a big bolt on top, and you want to loosen that before you pull the unit out of the car, its really tight.
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Old Jul 15, 2025 | 02:32 PM
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From: binghamton, ny
Originally Posted by dsrfct2
Thanks, the relays are ok, if I put 12V direct on the post on the motor its doesn't run. Its high resistance/ open circuit.
I need to take the motor off but leave the pump section in place, doesn't look like it breaks into the lines, but I need to be sure.
Like this, but leave the hydraulic section on the car.


Photo borrowed from another post.
yeah, that picture is from the rebuild thread I did a while back. I don't recall if there is physically enough space to pull just the motor, but as you can see in that picture those 2 little pistons that are in the center bore do have orings on them, and will potentially leak fluid if you pull the motor. Getting the motor back in, will be the real PITA. If I recall correctly, there are pressed in dust caps that need to be removed in order to get those pistons out of the way so you can slide the eccentric lobe back into the hydraulic unit. I'd bite the bullet and pull the whole unit. bleeding the system will be easier than trying to fight the motor while still in the car.
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 02:32 AM
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From: YORKSHIRE
That's great and thanks for the reply. I read your post a few times and couldn't quite make out what was in the hole.
Like you say, easier to pull the whole unit and change all the seals, if I just got the motor running, chances are it would leak anyway, cars been stood for 20 years.
I'll get the seals ordered ready for a winter project.

Thanks
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Old Jul 17, 2025 | 08:49 AM
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From: binghamton, ny
Originally Posted by dsrfct2
That's great and thanks for the reply. I read your post a few times and couldn't quite make out what was in the hole.
Like you say, easier to pull the whole unit and change all the seals, if I just got the motor running, chances are it would leak anyway, cars been stood for 20 years.
I'll get the seals ordered ready for a winter project.

Thanks
I think I still have a bunch of those seal if you don't want to buy a whole pack of each. I'd be happy to send you some.
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