My ABS system is broken. The pump is leaking from the base slightly, but the real problem is:

When I first turn the car on, the ABS light comes on then goes out like normal. I drive for a bit and within a few seconds of driving, the ABS light comes on and stays on until I turn the car off.

I'm pretty sure this is an ABS sensor failure. Is there an easy way to tell for sure which sensor it is or if it's a failure in anything else?

Also, to solve the leaking pump, I've searched and haven't found much in the way of a fix. Someone mentioned tightening bolts, but I didn't really see a true explanation.

Thanks,
-Phil

 

Well Phil,

The ABS system isn't rotary specific.........

In other words, you can take it to the dealer & have him hook up his magic machine to diagnose the problem.

One sure fire way to test the ABS is going into turn 3A at Pacific Raceway..........

Down the hill your going over 100mph into a sharp 180 degree turn. I figured out my ABS was bad when only my right front tire locked up for over 100 feet. Plenty of smoke to tell me something was wrong along with steering feedback. Plus I wasn't decelerating at anywhere near the same rate as all the previous laps.

Turns out the ABS system has two relays in the elect/hyd unit. One operates the pump motor & the other operates the valve. My pump motor relay would stick when it got hot (repeated cycles at the track).

You can guess all you want. The FSM has a wonderful troubleshooting section. You just need to get a hold of the special tools listed.

But beware...........You now have extremely front brake bias with no ABS. You will rear-end someone if your not careful. I would get it fixed ASAP

 

I'm probably going to take it to the dealer then. Any chance they'll tell me which sensor is dead if it's a sensor, or will they just want me to pay them to fix it? I'd really rather do the work myself, I don't really trust other people working on my car too much :P

-Phil

 

Checkout the FSM. You can check the wheel speed sensors with a digital meter.

From one of my previous posts..............





I got the ABS light & massive front brake lock up after the finish line at a autocross event.

When I opened the hood I could hear the ABS Motor running. Even after I shut engine off, the ABS Motor continued to run.

I pulled the ABS fuses (40 & 15 amp) from the box near the left strut tower. This shut the ABS Motor off, but I still had the light & some serious front brake bias.

When I tried to put the fuses back in the ABS Motor started running again. After a while (1/2- 1 hr) I tried again & all was back to normal (no light). It stayed that way for a couple of months.

Then, during a lapping day, I got the ABS light again. This time I was under heavy braking & got massive front brake lock up (the right front taking the brunt). I flat spotted my R compound tire to the cord. Back in the pits, with the hood up, I could hear the ABS Motor running once again.


The ABS Hydro Electrical unit was two relays under the plastic cover. One is for the Pump Motor & the other is for the Valve.

I tested both relays with voltage & a meter. They operated normally.

I then heated the Pump Motor relay up to 250' F & tried again. The damn thing stuck closed. After it cooled down it snapped open again.

That's why the system would return to normal if I waited to put the fuses back in.

During normal street driving you don't get into the ABS much, if at all. On the track it must be cycling on & off a bunch.

Summary? Replace both relays in the ABS Hydro Elect unit. They cost around $60 for the pair.

 

Damn. That's no good. With no idea of the condition of mine, $60 definately sounds like cheap insurance :P

Going to try the multimeter thing next time I'm around the car.

Thanks