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It's worth saying that the throttle body mod does more harm than good (unless it's a racecar, or when using a standalone computer).
With that said, the first part you photographed there is the dashpot. It slows the throttle blades closing when you lift off the throttle quickly. You can remove it.
The OMP lever can be left as-is, and won't hurt anything. You could remove it, but I think it might mess up the spacing. So if you 100% want to remove it, I would cut the arm part off of the center part and leave the center part in place.
EDIT: I was using a Mustang TPS for awhile. You can buy an adapter kit online (JDL manufacturing), or you can 3D print one (see the thread in this section for 3D printed parts). It does stick out some, but isn't a problem as long as you have the stock alternator.
It's worth saying that the throttle body mod does more harm than good (unless it's a racecar, or when using a standalone computer).
With that said, the first part you photographed there is the dashpot. It slows the throttle blades closing when you lift off the throttle quickly. You can remove it.
The OMP lever can be left as-is, and won't hurt anything. You could remove it, but I think it might mess up the spacing. So if you 100% want to remove it, I would cut the arm part off of the center part and leave the center part in place.
EDIT: I was using a Mustang TPS for awhile. You can buy an adapter kit online (JDL manufacturing), or you can 3D print one (see the thread in this section for 3D printed parts). It does stick out some, but isn't a problem as long as you have the stock alternator.
Thanks for this info. I am going with a standalone, so figured might as well get rid of some of the stuff. Ill remove the dashpot. I am using a DCpower alt, so I am not sure if that mount would fit, I could print one up and do a mock test.
Thanks!
Not sure with the DC power. It also has to do with the adapter bracket I'm using for my Taurus alternator, so different brackets might help as well. My bracket pushes that side of the alternator up a bit higher than it needs to be.
A standalone is nice because it makes most of the throttle body stuff unnecessary, and also tuneable.
The stock throttle body has all of these extra parts, presumably to take the onus off of the ECU. I'm guessing they had only so much processing power, so things like using the coolant sensor and BAC to control warmup idle, or using the BAC to emulate the dashpot are beyond the stock ECUs capabilities.
A standalone lets you delete everything other than the TPS and the OMP without any consequence. Plus you can tune the above functions to your liking. You'll really like how much easier diagnosis is when everything is controlled centrally.
Not sure with the DC power. It also has to do with the adapter bracket I'm using for my Taurus alternator, so different brackets might help as well. My bracket pushes that side of the alternator up a bit higher than it needs to be.
A standalone is nice because it makes most of the throttle body stuff unnecessary, and also tuneable.
The stock throttle body has all of these extra parts, presumably to take the onus off of the ECU. I'm guessing they had only so much processing power, so things like using the coolant sensor and BAC to control warmup idle, or using the BAC to emulate the dashpot are beyond the stock ECUs capabilities.
A standalone lets you delete everything other than the TPS and the OMP without any consequence. Plus you can tune the above functions to your liking. You'll really like how much easier diagnosis is when everything is controlled centrally.
thanks for the info! I’m currently designing a bracket for a gm tps that should be printable. If it works I’ll share the file
12-26-22, 12:34 PM
