jilongie

i have an s4 t2 that i have recently acquired,
it has couple of problems as of right now.
it has a bogging problem, what it does is this only happens in canyons now
after i leaned out the car a little, is that when i floor the gas in 3000-5000rpm,
it wont start going until like 10seconds after...
im wondering if its because its too rich, or is it just the battery??
my battery is really bad.. it doesnt take the charge.. if i turn the car off, the
car wont crank again dueto bad battery... so is it because bad battery (it shows
low volt reading when its bogging like 8-10volts at the most...)? not having
enough volts and grounding in battery causing sparks to not fire?? or is it
just too rich? my safc is all turned to like -10-15 in all rpms... im thinking
its battery and grounding. if i get new battery and do good grounding would it
fix it??

and i have another problem...
my oil pressure used to read maximum or play around no matter the rpm (when i
say maximum it went as high as it could).. now it reads completely 0, the needle
doesnt move anymore... my oil is still full, and it hasnt wasted any oil since i bought the car... so i started doing premix.

does this mean the osm is disabled and my oil pressure sensor is bad??
i drove about 120miles with no oil pressure(well atleast the gauge) so that
would have terminated the motor if i REALLY didnt have oil pressure right?
so does this mean bad oil pressure sensor??

im sorry for such stupid and long questions.. im very new to having
electrical problems with my 7 so im clueless....

locations for items i need to replace would be highly appreciated
thanks in advance

and here's list of mods this car has

.Rebuilt motor 3k miles ago by Rotary Reliability in Fountian Valley
.Street Port
.Turbo ported as well as wastegate
.RC Engineering 850cc secondary injectors with RCE 750cc Primary's
.Apex-i S-AFC 2 Air Flow and Fuel controller
.Greddy Profec B-spec 2 Boost controller
.Greddy Turbo Timer
.Greddy Type S BOV
.Koyo 3 Row Aluminum Racing Radiator
.Flex-a-Lite Black Magic Electric Fan
.Lightened Rotors and Carbon Apex Seals
.Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
.K&N Oil Filter
.Apex-i Intake
.NRG Fuel Pressure Regulator
.Walbro 255 lph Fuel pump
.FD Fuel Filter
.FD Alternator
.3.25" Custom Exhaust

specific link to the page i bought my car -
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=562097

jilongie

and the car doesn't idle either unless i give it gas
or i adjust the throthle screw to have my idle reading at 44.8throtthle 24/7

jilongie

bump need some help here!

jilongie

bump.. help needed!

jilongie

^

jilongie

how come no one is replying.. ?

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

Your diagnostics should start with a stable voltage of at least 13v. I would use a voltmeter at the batt terminals and compare to the dash gauge reading....I have seen cars with bad instrument voltage regulators (at the cluster) that have inaccurate gauge readings for all the other gauges. An oil pressure gauge installed in place of the sender would verify proper pressure, or simply buy a new sender if you don't have a gauge handy. Did you have a solid thermal pellet installed or the stock wax pellet? Spark can be weak with low voltages and fuel pump volume can decrease with low volts also.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

If the car is running off the battery at any time, it's an alternator problem. Verify your alternator is working correctly via the checks in the FSM.

Also, although the stock Voltmeter is usually accurate, it isn't always. Mine's off. It almost always show barely above 12V, but it's higher in actuality.

jilongie

i dont have the stock volt meter, i read my voltage through the safc.
the alternator is brand new, but i know the battery is bad for sure.
i have to keep recharging it because it will not hold the charge for long time.
i have one of these bike sized batteries that drains fast.
but my oil pressure went to below 0 and it doesnt move at all...
but i DO have oil when i check the oil.
i drove 200miles and it hasnt consumed any oil.
does that mean my oms is bad and i should do premix??
and where is the oil pressure sensor located??
i want to start by replacing the sensor first.
i have a stock oil pressure sensor only atm
thx for helps!

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

I don't see why battery size matters. It shouldn't be draining for any reason. Do you have a draw on the system when the car is off?

Driving 200 miles and it not consuming oil isn't necessarily a bad thing. The OMP (not OMS) doesn't inject ALOT of oil.

If the oil pressure gauge shows below 0 it's broken. As in behind the gauge cluster. But, if you still want to replace the oil pressure sensor...

jilongie

o wow haha
i accidentally disconnected the sender
when one of my hoses cracked near there. i guess it will go away when i connect it
correctly.
but when my oil pressure works normally, sometimes the oil pressure will read above maximum pressure. any reasons it could be doing that??
it's street ported but i dont think that has much to do with it.
the oil pressure will read above max even when im not going fast, just cruising..
what's easy way to check if my omp is working right or not??

jilongie

but what bothers me the most is the hesitaton/no throttle response for long period in the
canyons.. as i said it only happens in the canyons and when it does happen, the voltage
is really low. i guess its all because of my bad battery...