Okay that's what I check for last night to see if they came on, nothing came on when I turned it to the ON position. I accidently toutched the B terminal to the chain hook when I loosened the belt so I may have poped a fuse. But I will switch them and see what's up. I noticed in the diagram it was closer to the b-terminal but I also noticed it was on the side it was on SOOO I just guessed. Will reply later with results...

 

Okay so I got everything wired up correctly. The terminals are SL from left to right. I figured they were because it didn't make any sence to me that someone with a S5 replacing their alternator would have to swap the wires. My problem was...

1. Popped my main fuse (80 amp)
B. The wire to go to the L terminal wasn't all the way up into the plug in the fuse box. I had to take the bottem out and clip it in (didn't realize that until this morning). And the wire I had didn't have a big enough female end on it when putting it to the fusebox so I had to play with it a little...

My concern is the volts raise when my rpms raise up to ~1000. Then with everything I have on it drops a little more. I had my rear defroster, stereo, headlights (about to switch to HIDs) ect. Here are pics...

 

Voltage output should be the most around 2500 rpm so if the output indicates to be more up to a point then that is okay. Also, measuring the alternator output at the alternator via a multimeter is more accurate than the cluster gauge.

 

yup, the one closest to the B terminal goes to constant voltage, the other goes to the s4 alt. clip, lower receiver.

 

Because you need to run a specific spacer and pulley for the FD alternator. It isn't as simple of an install as the s5 alternator is.

 

can i use a 89-91 starter ,alternator and battery wiring harness for 86-88 ? i cant find the proper harness its too difficult to find or anybody here can sell me one?

 

The FD Alternator swap doesn't require anything specialized other than the pulley as most of us know. As for wiring, I've made it short and sweet in this picture. Wire it this way and it will work with no fuss:



As for you FCOSORIO, piggybacking on someone else's thread shows a considerable lack of SEARCHING on your part. But I will be nice and answer your question anyway

Starter is the same, N318 for Turbo, N326 for NA MTs and N327 for Automatics
Alternator is swappable, see above picture
Harness: I HIGHLY recommend separating your battery/alternator/starter cables from the Engine Harness, then following Aaron Cake's guide to the letter.

 

And most of them are wrong

No. While you will be getting 14.4ish v at the alternator, the resistance and drain downstream of the alternator will result in less voltage in the rest of the system

See above. and a 30A fuse is ridiculous. You wire it to the box not for a safety net but to provide the correct voltage to the car, not the alternator

You can do this if you want insufficient voltage throughout the car

No. It's not plug and play


Rock Lobster is the only one in this thread who has it right.