right iv had a few faults with this engine as of late and iv been helped from this forum so I have one last one from you

I now hav the car idle at the proper mixture, set the tps sorted all vac pipes out but I have one last fault

I can drive the car for roughly 10 miles or so then ill open up the throttle a bit ( still running in so no boost just up to 0 psi slowly) and itl suddenly make a bumbling misfire tipe noise from the exhaust and the afrs will start going off the scales 14s 15s 16 17s and the car has very restrictd power until I let off

if I stop and then start the car im good to go for another 10 miles or so

rx7 fc vert

s5 turbo



just had rebuild

any help or things to check will be much appreciated just want to finish off running it in and start driving it

 

Look into your thermosensor. Sounds like issues after youre fully warm.

 

ok mate cheers , when you say look into it ie check resistence and wiring?

also do you have a picture of its location?

 

You need to measure the wire running to the ECU at the ECU. The wire is Green/White and it should read about 2 to 3 volts cold w/key to on and then slowly drops to about .5 volts when the engine is fully warmed. Wiring diagram indicates which ECU pin to look at.

 

ok mate cheers cheers will check asap

 

Pin 2E is for the Water Thermosensor.

 

thank you

 

have worked out what to do now cheers to above will do asap

but had time to swap to a known good airflow metre roadtested and again after 10 miles it leans off the scale

one ignition cycle then its good for another 10 miles sooooooooooooo strange

 

And check for error codes as you may be going into limp mode.

 

I have tried for error codes but no eml light flashing need to remove the cluster to confirm thers an actual bulb in ther


limp home mode on these- do they pull fuel to control lower speed to save engine - seems strange surely go richer to be safer

 

It should prevent you from riding at higher rpm's and allows you to basically limp home and then when you restart the car it repeats the very same pattern.

 

no you dont, im sure satch has the link to checking it

 

sounds a lot like limp mode, mine was doing it every 10 minutes of driving exactly... changed the omp and it went away, it wasn't allways throwing a cel when it would do it either...

 

Once you verify operation of the check engine light, limp it around until it throws a code at you. If you pop up with a code 20 or 27, you have an omp issue which I'm almost certain you have.

 

ok guys thanks very much I tested the thermo switch and it is within range so all good I also swapped a known good one in re tested and all good

currently swapping back to a known good fuel pump to confirm that is ok

will also try swapping the omp as I have a spare

code wise im unable to find the eml light so when you do the code read where does it read from

cheers for the help really appreciating it

 

to note my omp is bolted to the wing as I run premix

 

you don't have one, you need to put an LED on the diagnostic terminal, and it will blink the code

 

Being an S5 you must must must keep the plugs in no matter where you have the actual pump itself. Mine is gutted and sandwiching a blockoff plate to the front cover for easy access to the plugs.

 

Near the lead coil is a Green diagnostic plug w/3 wires. One is Black/White and the other two being Yellow based. Using a two light LED, as used for checking codes on an S4, you will do the same on your S5. Of the two wires for the LED one goes to the B/W wire and the other goes to one of the two Yellow wires (can't remember which one but you'll figure it out). And w/the Orange wire (again near the lead coil in it own plug) grounded to the negative battery terminal and w/key to on the LED's should blink any error codes.

Using the S4 method on an S5 w/o a CEL:

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html#LED

 

Explain what you mean by this more. I think the omp is where your problem is, but I am not an expert. With the S5 don't you have to change something electronically with the omp when converting to premix?

Hopefully someone else will chime in on this, I have an S4 with mechanical OMP so I am not entirely sure.

 

S4 is cake. Pull it out and block it off. S5 like I said you have to keep the plugs in but as for changing anything out I don't think so. I know the OMP receives signal from the wide range of the TPS on an S5 and that is where my problem is on my car, I believe. As for changing anything, I do hope someone else chimes in too.

 

for any one that searches this thort id post up the fault

you guys were right it was the omp

when doing the engine I also changed the omp for a better looking condition wise one and my old one had knackered connectors etc lesson learnt looks can be desieving

on with the running in brap brap

 

Did you just swap back to your old one and voila?