I didn't notice this thread has to do w/ rebuilt engines mine is a stock 140k mile engine. So I may have slightly low compression fighting me, also the fact that even bigger noobs than me dicked around w/ it before I got it

Haven't I read on here that rebuilds are a little low on compression when first cranked? I see posts about compression going up as they get run more. Or maybe it's just improperly built rebuilds

Also I've just been reading the FSM, an it says you can adjust the idle mixture w/ the variable resistor. Is it possible it's been screwed with and dumping too much fuel on startup? (On mine I mean, maybe 86gxl's as well)

 

Fuel Pressure Regulator

The Fuel Pressure Regulator or FPR is used to control the amount of fuel pressure in the fuel rails. If the FPR is not properly adjusting the fuel pressure then this could cause a very rich condition during idle and low speed cruising. You will have performance issues and fuel millage lose. A few warning signs for fuel pressure problems are, engine not holding idle, running rough or stalling out during idle, fuel millage decrease, strong fuel smell from the exhaust, low power in the lower RPM range

i found that off another thread on here..
could that be the reason my engine doesnt idle and i have to keep the revs over 2k rpms?
my omp isnt working properly either.
so i'm premixing, is that okay on a fresh rebuild?

 

I can't really tell from your posts, have you actually got it to start and run now? If so, what happens after it drops below 2k? Smells rich? Slowly sputter out or just dies?

 

well, yes AND no.
it feels like my car floods when i crank it over.
so i have to cut fuel half way through cranking til it tries to catch on, that i flip the switch to the pump back on once it catches on and i rev it up past 2k rpms to keep it alive.
i got it started by running a seperate power wire through a switch and directly to the fuel pump.. thats how i keep it running.
i havent screwed my downpiped to my manifold COMPLETELY..
and from the looks of it. i'm getting constant flameage. because i see flames creeping out of the sides of the flange between the downpipe and the manifold.
when i let it idle down it pretty much slowly sputters down..
looks like its about to idle.. then just dies off.
To me it seems like i'm getting too much fuel now.
or could it be that i have low compression..
i'm going to go buy a compression tester tommorrow and check my compression just to be sure..
but i'm sure its good. i get three good puffs from both rotors.

 

Starts the same as mine then (I have a cut-off switch too) just doesn't stay running. Sounds to me like the timing is too far retarded, it's still burning/firing after the exhaust ports are exposed. Or maybe you have the wires wrong? Leading and trailing wires swapped? Top plugs are trailing, lower plugs are leading.

 

no, i've checked the plugs far too aften.. everytime i try something new I ASSURE myself that my plugs are CORRECt.. i dont wanna blow my engine up by a stupid mistake.. ya know.
i was thinking that timing might be off also. i advanced it a little..err (i rotated it clockwise a little) and it has an easier time cranking up.

 

Yeah no kiddin', I was praying all weekend that I'd remember how in the hell everything went back together on mine after being tore down for a week

 

...you DO know in what order they go right?

 

Yeah, the coils are marked and the block is marked, that was one of the first things I learned when I got the car, when I first started working on it.

 

okay, cool.. just thought i'd ask before i assumed you knew, and miss the chance to correct somethin before somethin bad happens ya know.. lol..
ANYWAYS.
back to the topic at hand..
i am going to check my voltage going to the fuel pump, tommorrow.
is there any particular way to do it tho?
should i turn to key all the way forward and just start poking at wires?
or is there a certain way of checking voltage?
are there particular wires i should check and how much voltage they should have?
and where is the key ignition electrical thing i should check located at?

i already have somewhat of an idea of what things to check, i was just curious as to if there's any particular wires coming out of them since most relays and such have more than 1 wire.

 

One good reason why an exhaust manifold would glow would be from ignition timing that is too far retarded. When the spark occurs too late in the engine cycle (retarded timing) more of the exhaust port is exposed to burning fuel instead of being confined to the combustion chamber area. Long story short, re-check your CAS to make sure it was stabbed correctly. Line up the yellow pulley mark with the pointer and also line up the dot on the CAS gear with the casting mark on the CAS housing and carefully install it into the engine. If the yellow paint is gone from the pulley, it's the mark on the right if viewed from the front. Retarded timing will also cause sluggish running.

 

Underneath the plastic trim around the right rear strut tower is the 4-pin connector for the fuel tank electrics (pump, level sender, warning light sender). Put a DMM across the blue and black wires, put a jumper wire in the fuel pump check connector and turn the key on. You should see 12V on the meter and hear the pump run. If you see 12V but can't hear the pump (open the filler cap and listen) then the pump's probably dead. If you don't see any voltage then the probelm is electrical and you need to check the fuel pump circuit like I said in your other thread discussing this problem...

 

I thought for sure I did a test a couple years ago with the injectors out of the intake mani but still in the rail and so them spit fuel when I jumped that connector... I must have remembered wrong. Sorry for posting that.

 

okay, i just gave it a go. and i'm stuck.
i cant seem to find the ignition swith in the FSM.

 

i forgot to mention it, but i have the Haynes manual, not the FSM.
my mistake, lol.
i turn the key and i hear a click in the engine bay.
i'm also curios, is there some sort of solenoid in the power steering pump thats supposed to click on when you turn the key?
i hear something off of the steering pump, just not sure what it is.

 

...okay, after much frustration.
i've decided to put a direc switch to the fuel pump with a on/off switch.
now the only problem i have now is that the idle is at 1500 rpms. anything under and it sputters to death.
i've re-stabbed the CAS, aligned the points on the pulley.
anything else i should do to get my idle to drop.


Update:
i just let it run four about 10-15 minutes so far hoping it'll just warm up and get to idleing on its own.
any ideas on what it might bE?
my temps are low (about =1/4) i have my electric fan speed run on low.
and my RPMS are a little under 1500.. more like 1300

 

do you have a timing gun? you should use that to time it, and itll help with the idle. also check for vacuum leaks.

 

i have some pretty crappy lines. they're all old and brittle.. but mostly all of them are intact.
does anyone know the size of the fittings of all the vaccum lines?
i've tried replacing some of them but autozone didnt have the size i needed...
i'm probably goin to go hit up home depot or lowes, and see if they have the right sized hosing.

i have a timing light, just not too sure how to use it.

it has three clamps, red, back, and green.
it says direct hook up timing light.

 

yeah, the red and black ones go on your batt. and the green one would go on the leading 1 plug wire, just make sure the orientation is correct.

 

okay.. you guys wanna know somethin wierd?
its idleing lower now.. haha, maybe it just has to get used to running on its own.
its ideling around 1, a little rough... and by little.. i mean LITTLE..
so what do you guys think i should do now??
would i be done with it?? is it "fixed"???

 

i'll do the timing gun thing and assure that timing is set.

 

I got some from O-Reilly's, they sell it in a box, 6ft roll. I forget the size offhand, I think 7/32? I just took an old piece of hose w/ me and matched it up. I think there were 2 bigger vacuum lines that I didn't replace.

 

i'll pass by o-reilly tommorrow then.
i always wanted to change the lines out, especially the OMP lines.
i made my own, but i only used the two lines going directly to the block(i'm sure you can imagine why).
i plugged the other two going to the manifold.
i'm premixing til i get all the things worked out, then i'm going to re-do the OMP all together.

quick question. my brake lights arent lighting when i hit the brakes.
we bled my brakes today since i had a new master and new pads, but we noticed that the brake lights werent flashing when we hit the pedal. i checked the STOP fuse and its good. anything else i might need to check?

 

thanks for all the help tho guys!
feels nice sitting in my car watch my idles drop down to normal!...