well now, i think i'm back to the "no fuel" problem.
okay, is the fuel prime system completely seperate from the regular fuel wiring?
because it TRIES to start up when i have the jumper wire on the plug.
but i cant seem to tell if the fuel pump is workin right now not.
i have spark FYI. all coil packs show spark now.
would flooding the housing with MMO do anything bad? lol
i didnt flood it tho i did put quite a bit in both.
would push starting it help it along any?
i'm having to use two batteries linked to keep it cranking over..
i have already drained my brand new battery, so i have to resort to using to batteries.

 

okay, i just put a small LED on the fuel pump wire to make sure its getting power.
it seems to be gettin power only when i crank it.. isnt it supposed to pump a bit before i crank?
any other suggestions on why it wont fire right up?
i'm going to re-check my spark plug wires make sure i have them right.
the leading 1 is the front rotor correct? and leading 2 is the rear rotor right?

 

i was also curious about somethin..
what would be the benefits, of overcooling the oil?

 

can someone post pics of the spot near the oil filter and the fire wall so i can actually see with fuel line goes where. i think i have them right but i'm kind of iffy. i
i connected the the filtered line on the right metal line, and i connected the other fuel line on the left metal line. is the the way they go?
i had the flipped around before and nothing happpened at all, then i flipped them to the way i have them now and it tries to crank.

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/micaheli/RX7EnginePics

Those have been up for a while..... Might be in there somewhere.

Maybe in here too:
http://picasaweb.google.com/micaheli/91NABlackBetty

 

Its really easy, the return is the hose right after your fuel pressure damper. Its reversed on J'spec engines if thats what you have.

 

The fuel pump turns on ONLY when air is flowing through the AFM

Here is one test you can try.

First disconnect the CAS to eliminate any chance of spark.
remove both leading plugs, and have someone crank the motor over while you have your hand of a pieace of card board near the holes to feel and/or see fuel constantly being spit out.


This should tell you if you are getting fuel or not.

 

well problem is that i've already put the manifold back on so i cant tell which of the two lines are which. i know the metal lines are side by side..
and those pictures on the link did help but my poor eyesight cant squint enough to look for the filtered fuel hose...

 

the fuel filter is mounted on the drivers frame rail down where the fuel lines start to bend up toward the engine. Feel around You shoudl feel a round rusty metal thing with 2 rubber things coming off it

 

well thats just it, i know where the fuel filter is, but i cant tell on which metal line it goes to.
is the metal line closest to the oil filter the fuel line, and the furthest metal line being the return line?

 

put them back on with the filtered fuel line going to the furthes from the oil filter..
and yes i know fram is crap, i'm just using it to get past the breakin.. then i'm doing another full tune-up.
those two lines is what i'm referring too.
and the L1/L2 coils go exactly in the order when installing right?
like L1 goes on the front rotor and L2 goes on the rear rotor..
and same goes with the T1/T2 right?

 

Hell no, it only turns the fuel pump on. The injectors only ever fire if the engine is rotating.

...or the engine is cranking (separate signal from ignition switch) or the fuel pump check connector is jumpered.

Why replace the coils when you don't even know if there's anything wrong with them? If they were working before it's unlikely they've suddenly stopped working. At the very least check them as per the FSM first.

No, the check connector simply bypasses the AFM safety switch. Go look at the wiring diagram. Educate yourself.

If you can turn the engine over with the starter motor, why push it? If you don't have fuel or spark, you can push it until the cows come home but it still won't start.

No. The whole priming thing is a myth. What do you think happens when you put the key in and just turn it straight to START. There's no time for priming to have any effect but the engine still starts.

Increased viscosity, causing reduced lubrication, causing increased engine wear. Oh wait, that's not a benefit...

Simple foolproof test. Disconnect the return hose (not the one from the filter) and put a container under the open metal line. Jumper the fuel pump check connector and turn the ignition on. If fuel comes out the open line then the pump and hoses are fine. Reconnect the return line and start looking for the cause elsewhere. If no fuel comes out swap the supply hose (the one from the filter) onto the other metal line and repeat.

 

UPDATE----

would my AFM be the cause of it not wanting to start?
i pushed the car to about 4k rpms and it still didnt wanna grab on.
i'm getting fuel (err my fuel pump its workin properly) it stayed on after the car came to a stop-more or less..
i couldnt really give it full throttle since i dont have my manifold bolted up to my exhaust (LOUD).
i kinda just wanted to get it started..
side not----i might've put too much MMO inside..
i've already cleared all the MMO out since i cant smell it anymore, i'm just now smelling fuel.
what if i flip the spark plug wires.. what would happen?

real question tho HOW HARD IS IT SUPPOSED TO BE TO START A FRESH rebuild the first time?

could it be any timing problem?



thanx NZ haha, good lookin out.

okay it was my coils being bad, or bad contact maybe..
i bought a new pack and its sparking fine.

reason i want to push start it as opposed to cranking it.. i cranked the engine for about 5 minutes damn near straight and i smelled wires burning.. the power wire leading to the start got hella hot..
other reason is because i dont want to burnout my starter ya know.
i
looked at the diagram, maybe i'm just dumb but i didnt understand the diagram.. maybe i didnt look at it at the right angle.. lol

about the oil cooling, i thought so. i had a hint that it the oil had to be a certain temperature to work properly (one reason or letting the engine warm up i'm assuming)

about the metal line trial and error. if i put the main fuel line on either metal line. it'll only just spew out the other metal line since its all connected.. wouldnt it?

 

could the pump simply not PUMP fuel without the jumper wire on the yellow plug?
the pump is getting power when i was push started.
all that happened now was it backfired every so often. and it smoked a bit.
i was thinking maybe the smoke was petroleum jelly being burnt off, or the MMO i put in earlier this week because it didnt smell like fuel.
one thing tho my manifold-where it connects to the downpipe was glowing.
since its glowing it should mean its getting fuel and ignition right?
only reason it should be glowing would be because of heat from the engine burning off the fuel right?

 

Dude just take all of thouse hard line off the motar and those 4 plugs with the vaccume air filters off , leave the plugs .It will still run i had a cloged hard line and i just boght new hose and every thing looked better, yes and operates. And how you test your fule pump is just pull the fule line when you think its on!

 

just hard wier the fule pump in if it works then. Its probly your fule pump relay not your cut off.

 

oh yeah all most forgot the in fule line has the fule filter in it and goes to the lower fule rail under the upper intake. Then a pressue hose goes from the outher side of that rail into the back side of the top rail and on the outher side of the top rail should be the return line and fule pressure regulator. Thats all i got bud

 

NEW update.
i found out whats the problem. i just gotta find out how to fix it.
my engine cranks up better than before now. it actually tries to and does for a split second.
the main problem is that my rear injector(s) arent spraying.
or not spraying enough..?
i removed my leading plugs and noticed that the front rotors plug had a layer of i'm assuming to be carbon build-up.
so i just scraped it off with my nail since they're new plugs it came right off.
so i proceeded with the rear rotor, and i noticed the the plug was clean right out of the motor. no sign up fuel.. no even smell.
it had a small burnt carbon maybe near the center, but nothing like the front rotors plug.
is there anything that could not be plugged up maybe that can be causing my rear rotors to not be getting any fuel? i replaced some old fuel lines that were leaking..
i'ma going to try out a different set of injectors after i come home from work, maybe the primary injectors are clogged.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaDqNOUCLXY

thats a video of what it did. keep in mind that it HAS gotten better to start than on the video sinces last night.
i'm assuming compression inside the chambers has gotten better.. maybe the seals have been seated. better after the cranks.. and so on..

any help or suggestions welcomed!

 

Don't make random changes if you don't know the outcome. That's a good way to break stuff. Just make sure they're all connected properly.

The FPR acts like a check valve. Fuel will only flow through it in one direction, so if you connect the lines backwards none will flow.

I'm not quite sure what you're asking. The pump gets power when the engine is cranking or running. The jumper wire simply bypasses the airflow switch in the AFM to allow the pump to run with the engine off, so you can check the pump is running, check for leaks, and refill an empty system.

Make sure the primary injector plugs are clean and secure, and both have 12V on one pin.

 

okay here's another update.

i had a real POS passenger side harness that had quite a few bare wires and repaired wires.. so what i did was completely take it out. and go pick up another one from the wreckingyard.
its in WAY better shape, but the problem now is that the pump doesnt stay constant.
i put a direct power wire to it this time and it revved up nicely.
it only gets power when i'm cranking in. once it tries to catch on, i let go of the key from cranking and the power completely gets cut off.
so there is no power running to the pump once i stop cranking.
and would it be a vaccuum leak somewhere or simply that its a new engine, but.
i have to keep the revs over 2k to keep the engine alive.
it revs up nicely tho (up to 3k rpms anyways)
i'm just hoping its got to do with timing or vaccuum lines.

 

okay just checked my fuses, in the car and near the strut tower.
all my fuses are good.

 

its been a while since I've been here, I'm into bikes now but still love the rotary...

I had a similar problem with my rebuild I had spark and fuel, and the cas was correct...

I had to pull start it to build up the compression to start since I was using my ould rotor housings

 

well the thing is that i'm not even getting any fuel for starters.
i get fuel when i'm cranking it, but then it stops once i let go, but its a bitch to crank it up tho i have to adjust the CAS forward a little bit and be creative with the fuel cut to get it to start let alone stay on.
i'm having trouble getting it to idle right.
it'll die under 2k RPMS. could it be some relay thats not clicking on or off.
i went over my fuses again and they seem good.

 

My S4 TII has the secondary inlet at the front, not the rear. FPR is closer to the firewall. And both rails are under the UIM, primary bolts to the block and the sec bolts to the LIM.

I have a similar problem to 86gxl_fc , mine will spin over but not fire up by itself. If I hold the pedal down about 1/8-1/4 throttle, it will slowly fire up and run, then stays running on it's own. If I don't hold the throttle a bit, it won't fire up and the plugs will be wet when you pull them, like it's flooding on startup.

 

okay thats pretty much my same exact problem.
only difference is that mine doesnt stay on unless i hold the throttle at 2k rpms.
and i run a direct power wire to a on off switch towards the fuel pump.