iceblue

I have ben performing this swap for past 4 days at least.
I have a 1988 GLU N/A I purchesd a 1987 TII JDM front clip. Reson for this purchas was super pressed for time and very hard to finde a A-spec TII motor and wire harness and tranny and ECU in a set.

This swap has proved to be a fair bit of work and dificulty. I have read about some wires that have to be rewired to work properly. All of the plugs from the harness pluged into my car and the TII ECU of course. There was one unit that had a DENSO sticker on it in the TII car I took this out and carryd it over to my NA since it was only in the TII and TII harness. Is thre any thing ells I need to do here? As well the body harness to the alternator has like a 4pin white connector this does not apear to be on my TII engin harness. Is this normal? As well the oil pan has a braded or steal wrap cable coming from it. This does not apear to have a connection to my NA car. This cable was allso cut off from the junk yard in japan. Ok? As well again I have more body harness plugs that went to the tranny on my NA that dont seem to exsist on my TII tranny. This normal again? I have to say I have ran into so much during this swap that no one has ever commented on in evrything ive read.

My fule pump apears to not be pumping fule. Swap related? or what? Or do I need to track the wires down in the ECU and rerun new ones to the fule pump?

How is the throttle cable sapos to run? This is a dumb ? but I am trying to finde the proper way to run it evrywhere I put it it seems to be to long. I still have teh NA cable in it for this reson but have the TII cable in the clip still.

HAILERS

The alternator has but one two socket plug going to it. I think your confusing the cas four wire plug forr the alternator plug.

The throttle cable runs from the left side of the engine.....around the front of the engine ......then down the right side of the engine to the throttle cable attach point.

You did not change the harness so the fuel pump should work as before. You know it only pumps when the key is HELD to START or the engine actually starts up, OR the fuel pump check connector is jumpered and the key is to ON.

The DENSO unit MIGHT be the KNOCK SENSOR CONTROLLER. Maybe not. There's no picture of it and you didn't state the color of the wires going to it on the turbo car. If it is the knock sensor and you have a non turbo harness, then you have to run a wire from the knock sensor on the engine to the knock sensor controller. The engine should be able to start up and run just fine without it installed. This item can WAIT until the basic things are up to speed.

EDIT: Try this linhttps://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=298878&highlight=control+unitk.

You NEED the turbo boost/pressure sensor for the car to run right. The afm off the non turbo will do for a while but the tubo one is needed once things get squared away OR you could use the non turbo one if you have a wideband 02 sensor/gauge and a SAFC.

The wiring for the tps will have to be lengthened to reach the turboii tps.

If the turbo still has the twin scroll actuator attached to it, you need to make wiring adjustments for the twin scroll solenoid to the ECU.

The best thing a person can do when doing this conversion using the stock non turbo harness, is to printout the pinout for the non turbo and then the turbo ECU's and compare them side by side. Actually there are but about four/five pinout differences and three can be ignorned.....IF I remember right.

There's a free online fsm on the internet.

iceblue

he DENSO unit is the nock sensor. The wires that plug into it are pat of the motor harness and I pluged them in. Why do I need ot run new wires? and where is hte nock sensor on the motor? I have a full JDM clip so i transferd the AFM and all thows wires and things there. The motor harness was a JDM harness so I pulled the UIM off and redid the wireing so that evrything went to the other sides. There was a few wires when done on the non turbo side of engin that would not reach so I lengthened them. I might be confusing the alternator thing. I know the ALT gets the eye looop with a sleev. On this same cable wrap is the 4 pin white connector that seems to have no use on this motor is the one I was refering to. so if im right and understand I might not have to do any rewiering? I am not sure what item the boost boost/pressure sensor loooks like.

Thanks for help so far

Icemark

Boost/pressure sensor is mounted on the passengers (drivers- in a Jspec clip) shock tower. Not on the engine.

I agree with Hailers, it sounds like the 4 pin plug is the CAS plug. Can you take a picture

YearsOfDecay

You do know that the fuel in and out hardlines are reversed on j-spec motors.. right??

iceblue

Ok here is my update. First thx alot guys for helpin so far. Ok I fixed the fule delivery with the fule pump. the pump silinoid was sticking clog up or something. I have the air pump and ACV removed but not blocked off yet. I dont think this efects start up.

I have the noc sensor hooked up that was the denso unit. However tere is a 4 pin connector that looks like -|| that is part of the body harness by the ECU but tehre is no connection for it with the TII harness. The windshield wiper motor wiring is not part of the motor harness on the TII aparently I figure I will have to finde the pinout and rerun wires. The alternator wires for voltage metering and whatever dad said it makes it charge is part of the motor harness on the NA but not hte TII so I will have to rerun the pinout on here to. So this solve this I balive. Not sure on that white connector thow.

HELP HERE! lol :-) Still not starting. The coils are not firing. I figure maybe the injectors are not firing?? I dunno. But no spark no go. Can yuou help me here?

The last thing I think is hooking up some of the stuff from the mas air flow area. Ok. There is coming from the hose from the MAF is a little round unit name on it is ABV and has a spot for a VAC line. Here is how I have this hooked up. A VAC line from here T's off one goes to the boost sensor and the other goes to the UIM behinde the BAVC if this is right. I found another unit laying in that area if it poped off or not not sure and not sure what it is. It has MITSUBISHI emblum on it the numbers on it are k3t05372 it has a VAC line connector on it and a wire plug that looks like -| have no clue what this is.

The fule to the engin how I decided what lines to use was I looked at my JDM front clip at what line was coming from the fule filter and marked the line. The charcol canistor is not hooked up shouldent efect starting. I poulled the UIM back off to look at hte fule rails again to see what way is return and in and trraced them to see if they are hooked up right and they are.

So this is ware im at guys and all I can say is help lol :-)

Icemark

is the CAS plugged in???

iceblue

Indeed it is. I have the CAS plug from the TII motor harness pluged in and teh TII ECU pluged in. The free CAS plug I was asking about earlier was part of the body harness when the car was NA so this plug should no longer be used however I used it to test as well and no spark still. I replaced coils to and see if that worked and wires and no spark

Icemark

no spark suggests that the CAS is not plugged in or the ECU is not plugged in.

iceblue

They fore sure are. I wish I had a camera. I will look some more thank you. any more sugeshtions?

iceblue

Here is wha I got for you.
Both coils are getting power.
No spark.
I have swaped out coils.
No change
Swap CAS's
No change
The CAS plug on the S4 NA is part of the body harness. For this feet I pluged the stock NA ECU in and as well trys this with only the body harness clip into the NA ECU.
No change
So I have swap and interchanged all ECU's TII and NA with no results.

Is there another posability here?