ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

They said carbs suck but I did it
They said turbos and carbs don't mix but I've done it.
They said the rx8 trans won't work in rx7 but I'm doing it

This is what I've done so far.

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Two questions:
What was involved in moving the shifter?
What are you doing for a speedometer cable?

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

The shifter plate is 1/8" steel with bracing and still uses 2 of the factory holes so the shifter sits 1/2" more forward than stock. The shift rod is extended out the back of the casing and has a dust cover like a shift boot. It was too tight to get a ring seal in place and I will improve the design of the next one.


I will probably go HUD heads up display speedo. I want the factory one to work and I'm looking for options. I do have some ideas on how to do this but need to do more research.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

there is some hot rod thing that will take an ABS wheel speed sensor, and then drive a cable...

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Use the electronic speed sensor from the RX-8 and feed the signal to either a Miata or Integra speedo.
The Integra is a pretty simple swap into the FC cluster, not sure about the Miata.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

aint got none! the Rx8 uses the ABS sensor to drive the speedo, so there is nothing in the trans, and no provision for anything

BUT

the hotrodders have this problem with something, so you can buy something that will drive a mechanical speedo from whatever wheel speed sensor you have.

lta_ds_fs7

Just out of curiosity, why did you go with the series 1 transmission over the series 2 transmission?

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Here it is. It's $340!

Cable X...Electronic Speed Signal to Mechanical Speedometer Adapter

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

Or just use a 50-75 dollar tom tom and then it uses GPS for speedometer


probably 30 bucks for the small guys on craiglist.

and now you have added navigation!



I picked up an rx8 trans as well, that swap is in the works but not until I finish the new engine. New powerplant is going in all at once. However Its not really driven in on the street so I could care less about a spedo and there is no interior so egg shaping the shifter hole is no biggie

sub'd

BTW I run a mikuni carb as well, I understand where your coming from.

monty11ez

S1 or S2 transmission?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it's an upgrade over a n/a FC transmission but it's just too much of a headache to accomplish unless you track the car.

both S1 and S2 are weaker than the turbo transmissions, however the 6 speed with dual cone synchros shifts smooth as butter comparably.

monty11ez

The S2 transmission might be weaker than the turbo transmission, but they are definitely good for over 400hp.

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

I only found 1 s2 trans and it was more than twice what I paid. I wasn't sure if this would be successful so I bought the s1. If when I break it I'll try the s2. After installing the mustang 17"wheels on my car 2nd gear was almost as tall as third in my rx8, that was my insperation.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

careful with launches, i have about a 6" section of tail shaft(don't overthink it...) from an S1 as proof that they cannot be abused.

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

I have a friend, who gets 12.0@116 with the smooth 5spees and open diff. He did break 3rd once and a tll trans rear are on the way. I don't race very often but don't want it to break either.

When I go turbo I know my peak hp will drop and I will have to shift earlier. I'm going to combat this with a gizzmo ibcr boost controler that controls via rpm. I'm hoping this will be more gentle on the trans and give a higher peak hp as I can over boost at higher rpm.

RotaryEvolution if you have done this before please comment. Thanks.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

Ditto. Some deals are hard to pass up, sure I would prefer an S2 but time/money/availability. Also the 2KW starter with the rx8 is a nice feature, the FC starter motor is only 1.2KW for manual trans (auto trans got 2KW)

My roommates STX rx8 is very competitive and experiences lots of launches without issues, however he is plagued with a bit of the 2nd gear syncro issues that is common with them. I am fortunate that I launch on dirt so I'm not concerned as much. it depends on your track/application.

Everyone said the NA trans is weak (and it is) but it still held up to some serrious rallycross abuse, it got tired but didn't effectively break. However having held both a t2 and an S1 trans the S1 is lighter.

Granted I also make less power than a stock rx8 and weigh less than one too.


Ghost: How do you plan to mount it? I am aiming to utilize the stock FC location with some sort of solid bracket, I thought about chopping up part of the PPF to make a mount easier. I have also been told to use this slave clyinder since the rx8 one hits the oil pedestal on the earlier 13bs.
Oreileys part# cs2162

observe:

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

I think the trans mount will be easy. Mine was originally a auto so the mount is further back an appears to line up. I think i can make a good one by modding the factory mount. I'll be installing it in a couple weeks, I just have a lot going on right now.
I read somewhere that the eclipse 2005 slave works so I bought one $15. To use the factory one looks like I would have to use a 90 on the hydrolic line.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

You can't physically use the rx8 slave cyl in our cars, see how it sticks past the bell housing? but either way post your part# and where you got it for reference. I'm not sure exactly what car the slave is that I posted but I was told some honda.

I watched the video and you said that you were going to use the auto driveshaft, does that have the t2 output spline or NA spline?

the t2 drivehsaft slips right onto the rx8 trans, same diameter shaft and spline count but the driveshaft length is the same. Right now I have a rx8 trans output yoke and the N/A M/T driveshaft. I figure lop off the middle and get a tube to fix that issue at a driveshaft shop to fix the length issue.

snap some pics of your factory mount when you fab it up before/after I'm curious to see.

I believe the body has the same holes but the trans rear mount itself is different.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the Rx8 has a power plant frame, so there are just 2 big studs where the trans mount would be. you obviously need to fab something, but at least there is a big stud kind of where it needs to be

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

correct, but who says you cant cut off part of that PPF to simplify mount fabrication?



Here are the auto and manual trans rx8 driveshafts and PPFs, it looks just like stamped steel so I would just cut about a foot back from where it mounts on the trans to be able to weld flat steel add bacon then multiply by beer divided by welder and it viola!

I really haven't thoroughly thought this part out yet if you haven't noticed. I haven't decided exactly how I will achieve this part yet but this was a thought of mine.

at least the bell housing bolts up!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lol! yeah basically add bacon divide by beer...

i haven't tried to bolt one of these in an FC, but i was picturing the PPF stud just going through the center hole on the FC mount...

super now sells an FD trans into an FC car bracket, its simple

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to focus on the 2 mounting bolts on the bottom of the trans and maybe a brace to keep it from rocking.

As for the drive shaft the turbo ll is 7/8" too long but I will measure it again once its in the car. The automatic drive shaft is 2" shoter than the turbo ll shaft so there will be 1" of exposed yoke no big deal and it has the Tll yoke n/a rear.
My turbo ll shaft and rx8 shaft line up nearly perfect with the N/A rear so with the right size bolts I think it will work. It looks like it will bolt up with factory bolts or maybe a size smaller. If I try a smaller bolt ill use something strong and a drive shaft loop.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

When I recently pulled my engine out for some R&D on a new engine I put the t2 trans next to the rx8 trans to get an idea roughly what I am working with:

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

For some reason it looks like such a stretch in your pics. Honestly it's not very hard. Hardest part is sealing the hole in the tail housing. I also had to cut and shave the shifter adapter to have safe clearence from the drive shaft yoke and my drive shaft does not have the yoke shield.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

What I should have done was put them bellhousing down and lined them up. I'm curious to see how you did your shifter adapter so its not as far forward. What is this hole in the tail housing you speak of?