ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

The 1990s honda civic slave works great almost a direct bolt on, used rx8 slave pin. The factory line might work but isn't flared so I used the rx8 hydraulic line.

AngryPerson

Are you sure its a TII driveshaft? Mine wouldn't fit. About a 1/2" too long.
Although my 13B-RE started life in my FC with the Banzai racing motor mount adapters which I know for a fact didn't fit for ****..... And then broke on me so I built my own. Pretty sure I got the engine exactly where it was from the factory, but it could be slightly off.... Just doubt its a full 1/2".
Any who..... Version 3 installed and ready to go.... Going to go do multiple launches with the launch control and 400+ rwhp.... Might do some street tuning to 25psi.... Hope my glass trans holds up

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

It's is not a stock drive shaft but it is built to OEM spec. My measurements off the trans showed I would be 7/8" too long but when I went to measure the shaft while in the car it fit.

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

Tell me more about your 6 speed swap, I will be turbo by the end of summer. Goal of 350whp. I think the trans will hold considering how light the car is.

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

I found something called a "cable-x-3012" CSS to mechanic speedo driver. Looks like it will drive the rx7 speedo but will take time for me to save up. I will also have to add a reluctor wheel on the drive shaft or buy a s5 abs hub.

AngryPerson

Odd. Then again, I've had problems with driveshaft shops not building them to the right length more times than not. The AL one I had built was built too short. It works but I would like to see it a little longer. Fought a driveshaft vibe because of it.

I would measure them yourself and see what the lengths are. I'm fairly confident you have an auto driveshaft.

AngryPerson

1988 Mazda RX-7 SE - Super Street Magazine

There's a bunch of mistakes in that article.

or

http:// that other car club rotary forum that IB won't allow me to link to cause they're scared of us /rotary_forum/showthread.php?t=10116

The trans will hold 350rwhp just fine. I've been pushing 400+ through it for the last 5 years. This included 405rwhp from stock REW twins, 390+ through a set of BNR's, ~400rwhp through an A-Spec 500R and for the last 2 years 415rwhp through Elliots GTX35 Stg V with Garretts 71mm 10 blade turbine wheel.... built my own equal length fully divided twin TiAL MVS wg mani with a 4" exhaust back to the subframe where it splits into 2x3" back to the bumper maintaining the full flow of the 4" in the transition. In a few weeks when I have the time a new fuel pump, new meth pump head, and a one more meth nozzle is going in for a total of 1400cc's of flow and then we'll hit the dyno. I street tuned the car up to ~25psi but only ~5500-6k.... was running out of fuel pump. The Aeromotive Stealth isn't all it's cracked up to be. No Idea what the power was but it should land me north of 500rwhp.

The trans isn't a weak trans, and anyone who tells you that is just an internet parrot who really needs to stfu and go play with scions or hondahs and camber their **** out and think it's cool. The size of the gears between the TII box and the SE3P box aren't that different. Plus there are a few other brands of cars out there running the same Aisin family of 6-spds making way more power. Hell, at one point there was a 20B RX8 in PR that was using the stock trans without problems. They did have to modify a few things to make it work properly though.

The problem with the trans isn't the strength of it, it's the assembly. It's a sloppy tranny inside and thus, there are a lot of problems with it that need to be addressed.

As anyone who had "blown" one of these trannies what they were doing when it let go. Most people will tell you that they were shifting into 2nd when all hell broke loose. Ok, so how do you shift into 2nd gear. First you depress the clutch and simultaneously lift off the throttle. So explain to me how it broke from being weak when there was zero torque applied to the tranny. See where I'm going?

My tranny failed when I was gingerly pulling out of a gas station and it popped out of 1st gear. I chipped a few teeth on the countershaft and dented a few on the main shaft when the detent ***** popped out from over extension of the hub. Not a weak thing, it's a poorly assembled transmission.

Something shitty happened to me @ Lightning a few years back though. I tacked out 5th gear and was going for 6th down the front straight. I missed 6th and hit 4th @ 143mph running some 275/35/18 Hoosier R6's.... I can't remember what the max RPM was but I over spun the F*** out of that engine. Ended up bouncing the rotors off the plates and breaking a corner seal.... that sucked.

A year later @ LRP again I was hauling ***** down the front straight, redlined 5th put my hand on the shifter for 6th as I crossed the S/F line and BAM! To this day I still don't know what happened but the shifter violently jumped up on me. I lifted and thought WHAT THE F***! Looked in the rearview to see a long think cloud of smoke and thought WHAT THE F***!! Looked in front of me to see I was DEEP into the braking zone and thought OH F***!!!!!!!!!! Slammed the brakes, got off the racing line and backpeddled around the entire 1.51m track to the pits, through the paddocks and up onto the trailer. The whole bottom of the car was covered in oil and the drain plug was missing from the tranny. WHAT THE F***! The closed the track for 15 mins to clean up my mess. I found the track worker to ask him what the puddle looked like and he said it was a puddle... a legit 10-15' long puddle of tranny fluid. Now.... think about how long it takes to drain the fluid out of the tranny when you pop the plug out and think about how fast I was traveling.... I can burn through LRP in 63-65s, so how does a puddle occur at that speed? Everything drops out at once. I still don't know how that happened but when I got back to the shop I put the car on the lift, put a new drain plug in, filled the tranny up and let it sit overnight on the lift. I saw no leaks so I drove that same tranny for another 2 years.

Weak tranny my ***.....

AngryPerson

That is one way to go about it. I have a client who wants a complete RX8 drivetrain swap into his '83 RX7. I'm also doing an FC front subframe swap as well and thus, using the same setup I have in my FC to get wheel speeds. Using the stock ABS hubs you bore that sensor hole to .72" (or just get a really nice 3/4" drill bit) and then get a GT101 hall effect sensor. Wire that **** up to the CableX and bam, wheel speed sensors.
Oh, I should probably mention that I had some custom trigger wheels waterjetted for the front hubs to use the GT101 sensor. There should be some pics in that build thread. For the rears I built a bracket to mount the same sensors and used the bolts off the 2-piece rotors in the rear to get the wheel speeds that way. Everything is wired into the MoTeC and then CAN bus over to the AIM dash. I have 4 speed inputs because I have legit traction and launch control through the MoTeC. I launch the car @ 4-4500RPM by holding the throttle down to the floor, holding the clutch to the floor, putting the trans in 1st gear and then side stepping an Exedy twin disc clutch. The ECU then takes car of the rest but it is a VIOLENT launch. 0-60 times datalogged in the 3.8-3.9s range.... Curious to see what they will be when the boost is turned up to 25psi.

For the FB I'll be using the CableX and my trigger setup to get wheel speeds.

I was talking with Rob at Pineapple a few days ago and he's running a GPS speedo from Speedohut or speedhut dot com, one of those. I don't know which will be cheaper but of you're thinking about changing out the stock cluster for whatever reason, the GPS speedo might be a cheaper option, I dunno, I never priced them out.

If you do go the ABS hub assembly and are in need of a trigger wheel, let me know and I can get you one, I think I have a few extra kicking around somewhere, if not, I'm sure I have the .dwg file kicking around on my old shop/tuning laptop.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

Not so much the filter but the filter pedestal.

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

I was looking at the GPS heads up displays but I also want the factory speedo to work.
From what I'm told it might be the shifter fork that's bending not the gears breaking so this may upgradable for more power. My trans is out of a. 2007 and maybe it a bit stronger than the older model but still a s1box.

It was rob from pinapple racing who told me what I needed to complete the swap he's awesome guy.
Great car angryperson. I'm going to do a Tll torsen again people say they're week but yeah if your suspension is hoping launching or you clipping corners at the track it will break otherwise they are very strong. My friends FD took a beating and never broke 405whp 12.2@118 if I was driving it would of been 11's.

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

With only a few things to do to the car I ended up in the hospital, emergency appendectomy. I can't wait to drive this thing, but first I need to be able to do a sit up.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lol, if anything the SE3P trans has bigger gears... and the shafts are enormous.

its actually pretty hard to find an Rx8 with a transmission problem, old ones get a little slow in 3rd, but thats the drivers fault

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

you mean slow going into third because of miss shifts>? or something else entirely?

AngryPerson

Yeah, I do on the 'vert as well which I why I'm going to use the ABS knuckle and my trigger wheels and a cable x or some variant. Same with the clients FB

I've only seen one broken shift fork and I'm pretty sure it broke when we were trying to separate everything or in transit. It was a big chunk of AL that didn't move at all.... meaning that the tranny didn't rotate to move it or chew it up.

The forks and the shifter control mech does wear, and **** poor shifting habits will wear it faster. It doesn't need to be upgraded, it needs to be "maintained"
I have 2 RX8's.... my Black GT has 207k on it.... from what I know it's the original trans. The sync's looked ok. The only reason I cracked it open was because of a pissed off input bearing.
The other has 138k on it and that trans IS factory original and shifted fine when I took it out.... it's actually the donor trans for the FB.... the Silver '04 GT RX8 is getting a 383 LS

Rob's a great guy for sure.

Thanks.
I find that to be another misconception as well. I think it's more the hoping on launchs. I've got even more miles on my 4.3 Torsen with no problems. Plan on putting one in the 'vert as well and running that up to 450rwhp, over 500rwhp in the coupe.... Oh... I'll be keeping the factory Torsen in the LS V8 RX8 with 400+ ft/lbs

Damn man, get better soon!

Well yeah, and that's what makes them weaker right? [insert retarded internet hypothesis here.... actually hypothesis is too smart of a word.... insert retarded internet ramblings intended to make people think they're smarter than actually taking **** apart and figuring **** out ]

1st gets slow too.... most used gear and people don't wait before trying to jam it in...

People not knowing how to shift properly.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

After picking up my t2 trans and picking up the rx8 trans, the rx8 trans is lighter. Or I suddenly got stronger.

AngryPerson

So what you're saying is that in the 15-20 years between production manufacturers haven't figured out how to make things lighter or stronger? Pretty simple to say that based on weight the tranny is lighter therefore weaker. Go tear one down next to a TII tranny and find me the weak spot.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

The weakness of the RX8 is almost exclusively the shifting assembly. I interned for an RX8 SCCA World Challenge team. They'd go through one S1 trans for practice, one for qualifying, and one for race day. All 3 would be broken down and rebuilt after every race weekend, always needing shift forks and synchros (they were already MazdaSpeed or aftermarket where available) . That eventually got annoying and wrecked S2s started popping up (~circa 2010). After switching to the S2 trans, one would last a whole weekend without issue. They were much more durable on a road course compared to the S1. It's easy to blame the issues with the S1 trans on driver error, but this was with a consistent podium finishing driver for the class and a car making <220whp.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

Woah now, I wasn't implying or saying anything about weakness at all. I just wanted to comment that it takes less effort for me to lift an rx8 trans around the shop compared to my t2 one thats all.

Redshft

iTrader: (1)

For what it's worth, there are some great posts on RX-8 club from Jason Saini on the relative strengths between the transmissions. (In a thread comparing them to the new for 09 transmission. It's an older thread:

2009 RX-8 Transmission Gear Chart and Discussion - RX8Club.com

I'll go back to lurking now. Interested in this as a down the road proejct for my NA road race car.

AngryPerson

Pretty much what I've been saying all along.

When racing, you don't have time to wait to shift, you're shifting as fast as possible four hours on end. When I say driver, I mean people who can't shift, and people who shift way to damn fast. So yes, I am blaming your driver, but then again, I don't blame him because it's a damn race, so yeah.

I track my car, I auto-x it, I beat up on just about everything on the highway.... but that accounts for about 5% of my driving. Most times I'm just cruising the damn thing and enjoying it.

The damage has already been done to my trans from the other shifter assembly that I was using. Over the winter I'll rebuild it with new syncs and forks. I would be interested in the MazdaSpeed Part numbers you have though so I can check them out on MazdaMotorsports website/store.

I would love to see a pic of an S2 trans, to figure out of it's possible to relocate the shifter ~3.5" back

Kinda what you were implying, if not, sorry, but I've heard that statement soooo many times... well it's lighter therefore weaker

Interesting read... well.... maybe 2 or 3 posts out of 5 pages... but that's the norm for 8club

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

One of my dirty little secrets. Like I said this works but wish I did it a little better, I could of threaded it, had it welded, but I dove into this head first not really knowing what I was doing.

I drilled a Ugly hole with out much planing. I ended up using a piece of graphite pipe with the rubber boot from a slave cylinder. it was either the 1997 civic slave boot or the 2005 eclipse slave boot I attached to the pipe with string and epoxy. I epoxy glassed the pipe/seal to the casing and sealed it with honda bond permatex. It would of been better to thread in a fitting or weld in a pipe. The bolt on extension doesn't leave much room and this would of been much easier if the extension was welded on. Here is a video of what it looks like.

Tui

iTrader: (2)

subscribed

drago86

It's super easy to swap in an integra electric speedo. Everything lines up and it's the same scale so you can even use the stock faceplate.

see: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=199.0

AngryPerson

Hey Ghost, have you managed to get the trans installed and driving yet?

ghost1000

iTrader: (1)

At a rotary meet in Baltimore with the rx8. Almost had the rx7 done today. A few small welds to the trans mount and hang the exhaust. I hope to have it done tonight.

I'll post video when done