Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

car is a NA swapped with a T2 s5. basically stock with an open exhaust. no cats, and NF01 map and AMF.

car died out of nowhere on a run. the tach doesnt move when trying to start. i did some research and looked for fuses. none of the fuses were bad. im guessing its the ignition coils 'trailing', before i go ahead and try to replace the coil is it possible it is something else? anyone have any suggestions?

i did a 5k pull to fuel cut in 2nd gear to find out i am overboosting at 10psi. i turned around to go home and the car just stopped. thats the back story on what happened. any suggestions are welcome! really want to drive this car.

thanks!
ricky!

REAmemiya_fan

90% chance you blew the engine. Does the engine crank? And if it does, can you hear whooshes from the exhaust pulses? I am trying to fathom what made you think it would be okay to run an open exhaust on a stock turbo. That is the recipe for boost creep and then blowing a seal. Hopefully thats not the case but that is a very likely possibility.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

i had my wastegate ported, but it still crept up to 10. when the motor cranks it still sounds strong though. the car is over 155k on all stock stuff except the motor and supporting electronics. ive been very careful with it. idle break in with another 500 miles not over 4krpms trying to go to 2k miles without going over 5.5k. and 1st gear never let me go over 5k anyway because of fuel cut.

think i should do a compression check??

satch

iTrader: (1)

Check the Black/Yellow wire at the leading coil for voltage w/key to on. Check the Green check connector by the leading coil that has three wires where two are Yellow based and one is Black/White as the B/W wire should also have battery voltage w/key to on.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

thank you satch. this being electrical i was really hoping you'd share some info.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

none of these have power with key on. what should i check next?

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Check all your under hood fuses, check all your wires, check your grounds.

If there are wires melted together, something shorted/grounded out causing them to heat up and melt together.

Check to make sure all your connections are secure, check that there is no blue corrosion on any of the connectors (this will cause them to not work), make sure your battery terminals have the wires connected tightly , a loose connection on it could cause you to get no power.

As a rule of thumb, you really don't want to boost anything higher than stock unless you have a fuel cut defender, the ecu will automatically cut boost if you're boosting more than 1 psi over stock i believe.

Basically you're going to want to closely look everything over, it could be something really simple to spot.

Another thing it could be is your ignition itself, that i do not know how to test.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Check the EGI fuse in the Engine fuse box. Also, turn the key to on and prove that the ignition switch is working properly. If the key is to on and the wipers or turn signals work then that proves the ignition switch is powered properly. Also check to see if the Main Relay clicks w/key to on. If it doesn't then check the interior fuse box where the 15 amp Engine fuse resides to see if it is blown or not.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

yeah i checked all the fuses 1st and they were all good. battery terminals are good, and i will check for corrosion. Yes you are right i had my wastegate ported so i thought i was safe but i will be getting a rtek2.1 once i fix this. thanks for the tips ! hopefully its just my ignition itself since the tach isnt moving.

i gotta check my ground under the UIM. i used a 1 min gasket maker since i didnt have the proper gasket. i regret it, because now it is almost impossible to take off. any tips on weakening the gasket. i will prob use PB blaster?

thanks again everyone.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

didnt see your post till now. but yes with key on wipers,headlights, and turnsignal works. upon visual inspection all fuses were OK. however im going to replace them with news ones to be safe. if fuses are good then whats the next step to checking main relay, as well as checking the ign coil themselves.

thank you

satch

iTrader: (1)

But does the Main Relay click w/key to on as you didn't mention this. If it does not then disconnect the two wire plug to the relay and check for voltage w/key to on at the Black/White wire. And something else you didn't make clear is does the engine turn over or not when trying to start the car. If the car turns over and the relay clecks w/key to on then you need to measure for voltage w/key to on at the four wire plug of the Main Relay as you look for battery voltage on the Black/Yellow wire and the Black/White wire.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

The main relay clicks with key on. I checked by feeling it and hearing it. The car turns over when trying to start it. gets fuel because my pump is hooked up to a switch. both the B/Y and B/W wires have no voltage w/key on. this is from a test light however. is that ok?

one more thing, idk if this matters but my headlights and wipers do work, but my turn signals do not.

thanks for the help i really do appreciate it

satch

iTrader: (1)

At the Main Relay is a plug w/four wires. Two of these wires have constant voltage and these two wires are White/Red and White/Blue. So w/o the need for the key in the ignition, both of these wires should have battery voltage (12 volts), so check both of these wires and see what you get. And a multimeter shouldn't set you back too much as they are rather cheap and will more than pay for themselves, especially when you own an aged car. And you could use the battery to test your test light if you think it might not be working properly.

Related to the turn signals, the Turn fuse and Hazard fuse need to be good.

satch

iTrader: (1)

And when you tested for voltage at the other two wires at the Main Relay earlier did you do this w/the plug connected or not as it's supposed to be plugged into the relay to measure for voltage w/the key to on.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

ok i will pick up a multimeter tommorow to make sure it has 12v. the test light is ok its just my 1st time using one.

yeah the main relay and everything was still connected and had the key on.
thanks again. ill update once i check these

satch

iTrader: (1)

Both the White/Red and White/Blue wire at the Main Relay are powered by the EGI fuse. If the connection is poor at the Engine fuse box where this fuse resides then that would be one possible cause for your problem. If your test light works then you should see what results you get on these two wires.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

both the W/R and the W/B wires at the main relay, with it still plugged in and no key have power.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Remove the other plug at the Main Relay that has but two wires. W/key to on check for voltage on the Black/White wire. It should have 12 volts. If it does then reconnect the plug and w/key to on and check again for voltage on the Black/White wire and the Black/Yellow wire in the four wire plug at the relay w/all plugs connected. They should both have 12 volts. If they don't then unplug the two wire plug and w/the key to on reconnect the plug and the relay should click. Does it click? If you are certain it clicks then the relay is likely bad. If it clicks and the B/Y and B/W wire in the four wire plug (connectd to relay) don't have voltage w/key to on then remove the four wire plug once again and jumper the White/Red wire to the Black/Yellow wire in the same plug and do the same for the White/Blue wire and the Black/White wire and then try to start the car.

blackrotary23

Main relay

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

what should i do if i failed the 1st part? i unplugged the 2 wire connector and the black/white wire does not have batt voltage. ( test light does not light (light is good)).

satch

iTrader: (1)

It was stated that you check this wire w/key to on. Is this the procedure you "followed." If so, you need to check the 15 amp Engine fuse as this is the fuse which powers that particular wire. And just looking at the fuse does not verify that the fuse is good and this is another reason "why" you need a multimeter. If you don't want to buy one then at least borrow one if possible.

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

yeah key was in the on position when i did i. i also replaced all the fuses in the engine fuse block and in the in car fuse block. including the engine fuse. im using the ones that light up when blown so after i replaced all the fuses i tryed to start the car and nothing is blown.

ill grab a multimeter and redo all the tests again. thanks again.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are two wires in the smaller plug. One wire is Black/White while the other is solid Black. Are you by chance mixing up the two wires and testing the Black wire which is a ground instead of measuring the B/W wire?

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

ill go check again

Rickyyp

iTrader: (3)

just doubled checked it. it was the B/W and it doesnt have voltage .