sbrmechanic

Im buying an rx7 (s4 n/a) soon that has been sitting since 08, the guy said it ran when he stopped driving it, any chance this thing has a chance? I plan on rebuilding it anyways but if its got compression i wanna use the engine it has now. Ive heard seals go bad over time if they sit but im not sure, some info would be nice, thank you.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

ok my brother theres a very good chance it will run, let me give you instructions on how to deflood the engine, and increase compression in the engine to help it start.... here we go in next post ill tell u what you need to do.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

1) First - The only thing that i really don't know about is fixing the problem about the car having old gas in it, other than maybe draining the gas tank ...but it should still start , id just add some new gas to it if you could.

2) The rotors probably don't have oil on them so to lubricate them to insure theyve got oil on them you can take the spark plugs out, and put oil in the spark plug holes with a spoon into the spark plugs holes, you can probably put about a teaspoon in each hole, then turn the motor by a few times to get the oil on the rotor assembly.

After doing this you can put the spark plugs back on, make sure you put them where they came, there are two sets trailing and leading for each rotor make sure you dont mix them up, or it wont run right.

Not only will this lubricate the engine, but will also help build compression to get it started.

3) try starting up up and see if it starts , the more oil you put in the more it will help build the compression.

4) if it doesnt start up , you will probably end up flooding the engine, youll smell gas coming out the exhaust , which is normal to happen on a rotary that is building compression to start up.

5) youll need to deflood the engine to get all the excess gas out of the engine , or it wont start, to do this you will follow these steps.

This is the step to unflood a lightly flooded engine, ill also put the 2nd deflood procedure for a heavily flooded engine, but i really dont recommend it unless absolutely necessary and you think it wont start otherwise.

quoted from rotaryresurrection.com/kevin landers

Unflooding a lightly flooded 2gen - Phase1:



Remember that you don't need to do this step for an 89-91, just floor the gas while cranking to duplicate this effect. The below instructions are for 86-88s.

1)
raise hood
2)
remove underhood fuseblock cover
3)
remove EGI fuse closest to engine
4)
Crank the car over for 5-10 seconds, 2-3 times. Car may start and die, or might sputter as if to start.
5)
Replace the egi fuse
6)
Quickly get back inside the car and start it up. IF usually helps to floor the gas at this time to let more air into the engine.


Youll do all these steps rinse and repeat until the engine finally starts, adding more oil into the engine through the spark plug holes wont hurt it, the engine is lubricated by oil being injected into the combustion chamber, too much oil wont hurt it, it just helps it build compression faster on an engine that can't start , its what you normally have to do on an engine thats just been rebuilt and is having problems starting for the first time.

The other deflood procedure for more heavy flooding is as follows, i really dont like it because it calls for using automatic transmission fluid (which will eat rubber seals in the engine if not quickly burnt out)

as well as quoted from rotaryresurrection.com/keving landers.

Unflooding a lightly flooded 2gen - Phase2:



There are a few different ways to go about this, depending on which model and year of car you have. The tried and true method entails the following:

1)
remove BOTH EGI fuses closest to engine in fusebox
2)
remove plugwires and lower plugs
3)
crank the car over 5-10 seconds with plugs out to expel extra fuel
4)
Obtain some ATF(automatic trans. Fluid) or motor oil along with a method to inject it to the lower plugholes of both rotors. This will mix with the excess fuel, rebuild compression momentarily, and help the car restart. I use a hand oil pump available at autozone, which fits in a gallon jug. You can also use a small oil can with a vacuum hose, or a funnel with a long hose. Be sure to get enough in the first time, you don't want to have to keep repeating this step. You cannot really put too much atf in, as you cant hydrolock a rotary. The excess will just get shot out the exhaust port. About 1/2 cup per rotor should be more than enough.
5)
Dry plugs and clean them with a wire brush, or replace them if you feel they're heavily fouled, or if this procedure doesnt work the first time.
6)
Replace plugs and wires.
7)
Replace fuses.
8)
Crank car to start. Floor the gas when doing so. Expect a lot of smoke. Hold the rpm's up a bit for the first minute or so until it smooths out and runs more normally.

This is the hard way to do the job, but it will always work. Depending on your year and model it may be possible to use an easier method.

Drift89fc

i baught my fc from a kid that had it siting for two years and it wouldnt start he thaught it had no compretion. i grabed it for five hun and pushed it out front of his house. i was told that if i put ATF in the intake and turned it over without starting it that the ATF would unstick the valves and give it compretion agein. well i did it and i started hearing it i then found out that the fuze wasnt in the fuze box for the engine so i put it in and it started lol smoked alot but the ATF was good for the apex seals so it didnt hurt nothing. try it and see if it works.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

also obviously make sure you check the oil and coolant before you drive it, its a good idea to have both at the levels they should be

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

there are no valves in a rotary bro, thats why its a rotary, its just two triangles spinning over ports inside the engine which works the same way as valves do, just in a way more exotic manner,

also you want to get all that atf (automatic transmission fluid) , burnt out as fast as possible, it will eat up all the rubber seals inside the engine if it sits inside the engine

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Wtf did YOU say?..lol.
Do they teach school in BC anymore or just sit around smoking BUD?

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

i was kinda thinking the same thing, i laughed at that post when he said a rotary has valves, lmao

Drift89fc

Lol i dont smoke lol im not the greatest at spelling too. Small town shity schools. But i try. Plus i im on my phone most of the time and you know how they are for typin. Im new to rotays but i was told somthing about some sort of valve inside. Not like a car at all but i was told that it or they get stuck open from carbon when they sit for a bit. Thats what the ATF is for.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

nah bro the automatic transmission fluid is to build up compression, there are no valves in a rotary, the rotors spin over ports (holes) underneath them , and when the rotor is over it its closed and it will continue spinning and it will then expose the hole again to create an opening.

In a piston engine the piston goes up, forcing the valve to open , then the spring on top brings it back down to close it, works completely different

Drift89fc

hmmmm then i wonder what the hell they were talkin about??????? they both had rotary moters and built them up prity good themselfs. ones a jdm fd and the other is a fc moter in a miata and they rip. so theirs nothing in their but an inlet an outlet and the holes for the spark plugs??????

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

goto http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com it shows pictures and alot of info about how everything work

quoted from the site " Rotary intake and exhaust ports have two functions: (1) provide a passage for air/fuel ingress and egress, and (2) control port timing. In piston engine terms, they replace the entire valvetrain. "

Drift89fc

sweet thanks guy ill check on that.
lol i was checking out the ' who has the lowest fc ' dude thats some funny trash talk some of those guys are shootin lol
i cant wait to get my rims so i can lower my car some more lol

Drift89fc

dude that was sick. they even had a rotary powerd bike. and it was some kindof flexable four sided rotary.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

You're ewlcome bro, I love rotaries been into them since i had my rx7 that i bought in 2005, had to sell it but i learned alot in the process of owning it, so i love sharing my knowledge on here, makes me feel smart haha.

Im trying to get another one, my first one was a non turbo, i think im ready for a turbo now

Drift89fc

ya i cant wait to boost mine. my friend is trading me a 88 t2 setup for my black seats and everything else in the car. im striping it all out anyways. hey do you know how to tell if i got a stock LSD diff in my 7 ?????

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

If your car has 5 lug setup its more than likely has a non turbo lsd (this is the gxl model) , the base model came with 4 lug and only a open differential (one wheel peel).

The only way you'd have 5 lug on your car and not have an lsd is if the guy swapped the 4 lug to 5 lug, and it's not very likely but possible.

Gxl (nice model with lsd) also comes with a spoiler, and power windows/locks, the base model has roll up windows, no spoiler, and no power locks, dont think it even has the rear window windshield wiper either. (i had this model when i had my rx7)

The only other models are a Gtu and Gtus , and i'm not really sure what those came with.

Drift89fc

ya mines a 89 GXL s5. its a five lug. its fully loaded i just wish it was a turbo model. i was told that if i had one it would be good enuf for driftin if it wasnt worn out.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

well if you have the money you can easily swap a jdm turbo engine in, im planning on trying to learn to rebuild a rotary, always wanted to , so im going to try getting me a blown turbo engine , rebuild it, then find a good shell to put it in.

jdm swap probably runs around 1500 bucks, but youll have to switch a few things to make it adapt to the na drivetrain because they arent the same (flywheel/counterweight/clutch/driveshaft etc) , im not sure if you need to keep the transmission as well, im not very knowledgable on all this but i do have a basic idea.

turbo drivetrain usually runs pretty expensive, but some people sell it cheap if u find the right person

im not totally sure what needs to be done, the other option is turboing your n/a but in my opinion its not worth the amount of work needed to do it and its much easier to blow up if its not tuned right because of the higher compression.

Drift89fc

ya ive read up on boosting my 6 port and id have to put fd roters in it. i was talkin to my budy at the shop and we were talkin about puting a fd into mine a little more hp out of the box and a little bit more cash but it will happin after i go up north for work. i saw your thread on rebuilding your own moter. i watched tha vid of budy puting new seals in the roters that was sweet. i cant wait to build my own. ive pulled a 4 port out of a 88 in pick n pull and i want to rip it apart and see whats up with it then put it back together.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

its probably relatively easy to take apart , its alot harder to put back together (isnt everything usually) lol

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

Possibly the auxiliary port valves in n/a FCs.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

that is true i didnt think of that, but usually if they're stuck id think you want to unstick them manually from the side of the engine, putting atf into the engine i dont think is going to help them move if they're frozen in place

need RX7

iTrader: (4)

Agreed, just saying that they could be the mystery valves in question.

Drift89fc

ahhhhh indeed lol i saw somthing in the vid i watched on how the rotary works and i thaught i saw somthing opening but whey didnt say what it was. and yes everything is easyer to pull apart lol but the most fun is puting it back together. im stoked to try rebuilding one myself ive always wanted to get into rotarys but i felt i wasnt ready to take on one. now im ready lol