sbrmechanic

you two should just pm eachother haha, but hopefully this thing runs! what about omp lines, could they be clogged from sitting so long? should i run premix?

Drift89fc

lol sorry guy. what all have you done trying to get it to run?????

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

if you goto the first page i explained what you can do to get your car running if it wont start up.

sbrmechanic

i havent got the car yet, hopefully this weekend, i would like to do a compression test

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

well you can get a compression tester for pretty cheap if you can rent it at autozone/advanced auto, the only thing thats tough is getting it threaded in there, if you go on rotaryresurrection.com under tech on 2nd generation theres a short writeup on the process to do the test.

Landon303

iTrader: (25)

i own 2 cars that I bought in 2012- one sat since 03, the other 04. Both are daily-driveable. Go through aaroncake's site

88_N/A_GXL

iTrader: (3)

Well, I can tell you almost 100% for certain that it won't be nearly as difficult as mine was. It had sat undriven for about 10 years. Really the only difficulty I had was trying to figure out why she wouldn't start. She cranked and compression was 95+ on everything, most were 110ish IIRC. Turned out to be a fubar'd pump, which I replaced with a 3rd gen, and stuck primary injectors, which I pulled all four and secondaries were fine but I rigged up a homemade injector cleaning station and cleaned em all and they worked fine. In the end though, I did swap em around just incase, ran a couple cans of seafoam, and have yet to have a problem all the way up to 8k.

In hindsight though, I wish I would have known about the PR inserts while I was in there so I won't be needing to rip it all apart again here soon.

sbrmechanic

the guy told me it needs a rebuild because last time he drove it, it was slowlly "eating coolant" fuuuuu

sbrmechanic

i have another engine to swap in so imnot stressin over it, the body, rims and interior are clean thats the main reason i got it

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

if its slowly eating coolant you might still be able to drive it if it is not smoking too bad where you'll get pulled over or overheat, now if its to the point where u start it and its not running right and burning all the coolant out thats bad.

the guy who bought my car , bought it running that way, he said he fixed the issue with kind of radiator leak stop or something (im not sure how well this will work or how it will affect the engine), im sure there are some temporary fixes you can do.

if you have another car to drive and plan on just working on this car, you're honestly probably better off having a good engine swapped in , or just trying to rebuild the one you have in their yourself, in my opinion n/a engines arent really that worth rebuilding because the rebuild will cost as much as a jdm engine swap. (take this advice from as i had my n/a rebuilt and streetported , costed like 1400+ after shipping)

if u plan on keeping it n/a and never turboing its worth paying for a rebuild, if not i really would rather see someone get a turbo swap and eventually having it fully transferred to turbo (youd have to change the entire drivetrain as well as the engine harness/ecu) , but you can get many swaps that include everything other than the drivetrain.

sbrmechanic

im planning on rebuilding another engine i have and putting it in my new rx7, well see what happens