me again

my rx7 fc turbo s5 idle at 2.200 rpm constant

that's fully warm

iv adjusted the tps and its in spec

iv also checked all vac hoses all good

tried adjusting the flat headed screw on the valve on the side of the inlet and that does not hav any where near the adjustment I need

throttle butterflys are fully closing


any ideas guys

 

thermowax is not working properly.

pull the UIM and the thermowax valve. chisel out the scale and it will work like a charm.

 

hi there mate cheers for the info don't suppose you have an image of the thermo wax valve do you so I no what im looking at

cheers

 

oh um......no not handy. but it looks like a little shock dampener on the firewall side of the manifold. and its inverted from how a normal shock absorber sits.


magic....

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...17/wtf-768645/

second post is the thremowax valve. that picture has the manifold upside down on a bench. and its from a turbo model but its all the same more or less.

also if you dont really care about the "cold idle" being anything specific, you can always just adjust the thermowax valve so it doesnt ever go into high idle.


1st edit
another thing you can do is get a air compressor and shoot some air into the upper coolant hose that runs from the BAC to the thermowax valve. that hose is actually the "exit" hose as i understand for the thermowax valve, but it can still be done. If the scale and junk isnt too bad you can potentially "blow out" the crap. I had an air nozzle that had a pressure safety on it, so it didnt work. Youd also likely have to bleed the coolant system for a few mins after doing this since you are directly adding air to the system.


2nd edit
the gasket for the valve itself is out of production. however 20 mins and some gasket paper from your local parts house will solve this issue. when you take off the valve you'll notice a weird "valley" in the gasket. thats a "metered" factory vac leak. i didnt bother cutting that back into the gasket and never had a problem. i doubt you will either.

as a tip, if you are punching holes in gasket paper for the bolt holes, use a drill bit. takes like 2 seconds and makes an actual round hole.

 

If the problem was the Thermowax and you wanted to override it you could just place a large vacuum cap over the screw and make sure it wedges against the piston and in doing so it will press against the throttle linkage and close the throttle plates. If you pressed downward on the upside down screw while the engine was idling at 2200 rpm and the idle dropped then you would know that the throttle plates are being held open.

 

Is your throttle cable and your cruise control cables operating/adjusted correctly?

 

cruise control is disconnected

throttle is set correctly and cable is not putin any pul on the throttle body when excelerator is not touched

 

when removing the thermo wax what do you do with the two vacum pipes going to it?

and do you remove the thermo wax by the thread or completely remove it via the 3 screws and do you bother with a blanking plate or just leve it open

 

If you are removing it completely, you can cap the vacuum lines that run to it. They're thermally controlled to operate the secondary throttle plates. When you do this, you will also need to remove/cap/reroute the coolant lines that run to the intake manifold/thermowax.

Alternatively, you can try to clean up the thermowax valve so it operates/moves again, and reinstall it. Or, you could remove the fast-idle cam that the thermowax valve pushes to hold the throttle plates open, thus eliminating its function, but not having to reroute any lines.

I'm assuming the vacuum lines you're talking about are these two:

 

yea thats the one cheers mate will have a play over the weekend