So my old clutch recently gave out, so I decided to upgrade to an Exedy Stage 2 Clutch...

I just picked it up from the shop and I can't drive it at all... When I'm stopped and put it in first, I engage it to the point right before it will stall, then slowly give it gas, and it shakes and stalls. I drove it easily before, but the racing clutch has me completely bewildered. I have to be doing SOMETHING wrong, so please help. Do I need to give it a lot of gas and shoot off? Maybe start from second? I have no idea...

Thanks for the help as always!

 

Is the stage two a puck clutch?

 

yes its a 3 puck style http://www.exedyusa.com/race/Clutch_Specifications

 

Right off the Exedy site: "These discs are approximately 1/2 the thickness of a stock disc and are recommended for track use only."

Puck clutches aren't meant for the street. Engagement is going to be very harsh, so you'll have to relearn how to drive the car. Unless you're making a lot of power, a heavy duty p-plate and organic disk is all you need.

 

your only half correct on this they offfer two stlyes of disc thin and thick

"We offer two types of cerametallic discs:

* Normal Thickness (Thick)
* Reduced Thickness (Thin)

Normal thickness discs have greater heat capacity and therefore better durability in demanding applications such as all wheel drive.

Reduced thickness discs offer greatly reduced inertia to improve shift efforts and improve synchro durability. These discs are approximately 1/2 the thickness of a stock disc and are recommended for track use only."

direct from the exedy website. so if puck styles are fine for street it all depends on driver preference and torque output setup though too.

 

You must be making some SICK power if you need a puck disc.

 

I just got an Exedy Stage 2 as well. Last night was my first drive on it and it really isn't that bad. In reverse it is pretty jumpy and a little bit of shatter in first gear coming from a stop. I did manage to find the sweet spot once and the car took off just as it would've from factory. Just practice more, I know I will be. Give it a week and you should be fine.

 

its not a standard Puck style. It's more of a 3 Puck with each split. Pucks are designed for faster engagement.

 

You're missing the point. They're both intended for track use, whether Exedy explicitly says so or not. The design is the same for each version, and the engagement will be equally as harsh. Puck clutches aren't really meant for the street, yet you'll find 100hp Hondas using them. You also have no idea which one the OP bought (thick or thin), so there's no real point in arguing over it. If the engine isn't making too much power for a stock-like organic disk, there's no point in going to a race-style clutch.

 

Yo but those 100hp hondas are race cars! If you drive it on the street mad fast it must need the most serious clutch!!1111!1111111111

 

The puck amount isn't as much just for track, by nature, but constant engagement/ disengagement is going to kill is twice as fast (as it's 1/2 the material).

Just outta curiosity: you looking at a sprung- or UNsprung-hub?

 

Did you get a light weight flywheel installed too? You'll have to hold the revs out more if so... heavier flywheels have more momentum and make taking off easier. Just give it more gas and engage slowly and all should be well... as long as the clutch isn't installed improperly.

 

that about sums up this thread

 

Bah, puck clutches are fine for the street.

I have a RE twin disk and my car is a 100% street driven car. I have no problems driving it on the street.

 

Being sprung or unsprung makes the diff. Im running a sprung 6 puk now and its smooth. My old unsprung 6 did chatter and was much more "grabby". Ive never driven a 3 puk tho, nor would I ever buy one.

 

Jesus... I didnt move to a puck disk until about 450 RWHP. Even then though I had to problems driving it on the street.

 

I've never had a problem with a puck set up.