RX-7 N/A Headers
#1
RX-7 N/A Headers
Ok, I have a question.
If a company (already established, this isn't me in my garage) were to produce a set of headers for then N/A 2nd gen that mounted to the stock cat location, what would the interest be like? Would this be a worthwhile investment? Would the demand be high enough to warrant testign and developing such a product?
If a company (already established, this isn't me in my garage) were to produce a set of headers for then N/A 2nd gen that mounted to the stock cat location, what would the interest be like? Would this be a worthwhile investment? Would the demand be high enough to warrant testign and developing such a product?
#3
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Originally Posted by andrew lohaus
doesnt the rb street header already bolt up to the main cat?
NO
To thread starter: There already is a company that does this, most people don't buy from them because of the design and quality. I believe the company is pacesetter/monza
#4
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Might sound like a stupid question, but since i'm planing to buy RB header soon... "NO" means that it bolts on to a downpipe and not to a cat directly? But isn't that obvious?
Last edited by Chief_MC; 04-15-05 at 02:35 PM.
#5
I have wondered this myself. I would like a header that would bolt up to the stock cat since I purchased a "test-pipe" that replaces the cat altogether this header (theoriticaly) would bolt right up to it and provide more of a gain.
I'd be game for a header likt this in the $150-200 range if it was quality materials and quality welds.
I'd be game for a header likt this in the $150-200 range if it was quality materials and quality welds.
#6
Originally Posted by 1987RX7guy
NO
To thread starter: There already is a company that does this, most people don't buy from them because of the design and quality. I believe the company is pacesetter/monza
To thread starter: There already is a company that does this, most people don't buy from them because of the design and quality. I believe the company is pacesetter/monza
Heh, we know. That's why we are looking at making an alternative to that one. One that has a good design as well as high quality.
But yes, the RB Header does NOT bolt to the stock cat. This one WILL.
#7
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Originally Posted by Chief_MC
Might sound like a stupid question, but since i'm planing to buy RB header soon... "NO" means that it bolts on to a downpipe and not to a cat directly? But isn't that obvious?
The RB header is made to mate up to the RB presilencer. The RB header + presilencer will bolt to the stock catback location, but the presilencer is 2.5" longer than the stock main cat, meaning that you will have a gap in your exhaust trying to bolt it to the stock main cat. You either need a small connecting pipe, or custom catback.
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#9
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Racing Beat plus 4 inches of connecter pipe is the best solution. The attached picture is one on an FC.
“The build your own” style header may flow better than the factory log manifold (then again, maybe not), but it will not flow anywhere near as well as a Racing Beat header. There is considerably more to a header than just smooth bends. Most people do not have the resources available to determine what diameter tubing will be small enough to maintain the negative pressure wave, yet large enough to allow optimum flow in the engine’s RPM range, along with knowing what the correct primary length is to time the scavenging wave’s arrival at the exhaust port for a given RPM range. And that’s just the primary tubes, there are also collector angle and collector length considerations.
If anyone wants a header, and they don’t care about performance (just another thing to add to their sig) - buy Pacesetter. A Pacesetter, with it’s unequal length tubes, will bolt to the factory cat.
“The build your own” style header may flow better than the factory log manifold (then again, maybe not), but it will not flow anywhere near as well as a Racing Beat header. There is considerably more to a header than just smooth bends. Most people do not have the resources available to determine what diameter tubing will be small enough to maintain the negative pressure wave, yet large enough to allow optimum flow in the engine’s RPM range, along with knowing what the correct primary length is to time the scavenging wave’s arrival at the exhaust port for a given RPM range. And that’s just the primary tubes, there are also collector angle and collector length considerations.
If anyone wants a header, and they don’t care about performance (just another thing to add to their sig) - buy Pacesetter. A Pacesetter, with it’s unequal length tubes, will bolt to the factory cat.
Last edited by Marcus_F; 04-15-05 at 04:39 PM.
#10
Originally Posted by Marcus_F
7Most people do not have the resources available to determine what diameter tubing will be small enough to maintain the negative pressure wave, yet large enough to allow optimum flow in the engine’s RPM range, along with knowing what the correct primary length is to time the scavenging wave’s arrival at the exhaust port for a given RPM range. And that’s just the primary tubes, there are also collector angle and collector length considerations.
I'll keep you all updated.
#12
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Makenzie's were $150 for the header, and went to the cat. $250 got a complete exhaust. However, the exhaust is far from the best quality as far as welds go(not knocking on mak here, just that you get what you pay for). Mak's headers also had fittment issues - I know mine will rattle at idle because it just -barely- touches the tranny tunnel.
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Where is Makenzie nowadays?
His design was short enough where on an S5, the header was supposed to be able to be bolted to the (hollow) precat, which was bolted to main cat. The nice feature was this would pass the visual at certain California smog test stations.
I hope this new design works. Please post details when it's available.
His design was short enough where on an S5, the header was supposed to be able to be bolted to the (hollow) precat, which was bolted to main cat. The nice feature was this would pass the visual at certain California smog test stations.
I hope this new design works. Please post details when it's available.
#19
any ideas on time frames and inital costs? I'm fairly new to the rotary world so I'm doing everything one step at a time but EVERYONE has told me exhaust is the first thing to do on my car. If I get this header I'll probably end up just making my own catback since I'd add another in-line straight-through muffler to help keep the noise down to bare-able levels.
#20
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I've been looking for one... but I'd be just as interested in someone making the RB->stock cat flange connecting pipe for like $20-30 since their header is proven effective..
But if you make it and the results are as good or better than the RB one then you'd have buyers who want an easily swappable Cat/No Cat system all over buying from you... so go for it if you can. Especially with Cali getting a homo as they are with the smog lately... geez.
--Gary
But if you make it and the results are as good or better than the RB one then you'd have buyers who want an easily swappable Cat/No Cat system all over buying from you... so go for it if you can. Especially with Cali getting a homo as they are with the smog lately... geez.
--Gary
#22
yea i would be interested from block to cat header, as long as the calculations are right, and i dont end up pulling my turbo off the shelf and installing that instead. pacesetter is worst header ever made, didnt fit on 3 of my mazda PU and my 1.8 golf (had to mod).i hate moding exhaust, even with having my tube bender.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMESE%3AIT
How many hours dyno testing are you guys going to do to optimize performance. SDJ already has a header design that blows away RB, ISC and AWR. MAZDACOMP carries this header. Of course it doesnt cost $200 either, but you get what you pay for. Ours are TIG Welded and built to spec.
90% of the header designs out there are good for one thing: Making noise.
How many hours dyno testing are you guys going to do to optimize performance. SDJ already has a header design that blows away RB, ISC and AWR. MAZDACOMP carries this header. Of course it doesnt cost $200 either, but you get what you pay for. Ours are TIG Welded and built to spec.
90% of the header designs out there are good for one thing: Making noise.