TheBigOne

1987 RX7 Turbo II

I start the car when its cold. Its fine. I drive it around town then park and turn off the engine. i go in to the store to buy some items. i come out to start the car again and KAPPOOOOOT it doesn't want to start. it kicks over as if to start but just won't. SO i wait about 7-10 minutes then POW!!!! it starts up no problem

A friend told me it's an EGR problem.

What does the EGR have to do with this???
is my friend stupid or does he have a point???

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

i dont know if the turbo's had the same flooding issue as the N/A's but it probably just flooded if they have the same problem

7UP YERS

it sounds like a flooding problem

TheBigOne

what do mean?? the engine flooding?? i dont understand

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Yes, sounds like flooding caused by leaky injectors. I think its even worse on the 87-88 TII since they have such low compression. Removing the injectors and having them cleaned is the only real fix; but a fuel pump kill switch incorporated in the shutdown proceedure or a deal from Mazdatrix that connects the to and from pump fuel lines so pressure bleeds off fast at shutdown are solutions w/ out fixing the problem.

TheBigOne

after driving for a bit I park and let the car and let it sit for like a few minutes i jump in to start it. im sure im not flooding the engine. i have spark. it actually feels as if i dont have spark but ive checked that and i do

TheBigOne

this fuel pump kill switch. installed like a fog light switch?? (as a temp solution of course)

would i switch the fuel pump off before turning the ignition off??

TheBigOne

b

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Yes, you got it.

Agent_D

iTrader: (2)

nah, if you have a kill switch just turn it off when it wont start, flooding can happen anytime, hell my car floods regulary, probably 4 times a week lol, its a pain in the *** and i need a kill switch but im too lazy to put one in lol.

ponykiller

I have never tried the fuel pump kill switch, but something that is even easier (and just as effective) is to rev the engine up to about 3K, then turn it off. You will here the rotors still turning after the ignition is off. This clears out any fuel that was not combusted that would normally flood your engine when you tried to restart it.

Good luck,
Kris

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Revving it never worked for me. I think its because there is still residual fuel pressure that will leak out of the injectors once it is shutdown.

Megaspeed7

I had this problem and yes its a flooding problem from either leaky injectors or low compression or a combo of both.

Revving high and shutting off won't solve the problem because once you turn the key off the injectors quit pulsing, Therefore not letting the fuel pressure realease like you think it is.

To FIX:
Find the green 40A fuse under the hood by the driver's side strut tower labled EFI EGI or something. Cut the main +12V going to the fuse there and run the 2 sides inside the car to a switch. Whenever the car won't start, flip the switch and crank it over a few times, then turn the key off, flip it back, and start it. If you don't turn the key off to turn it back on, you may notice your tachometer isn't working, This isn't a major problem, simply turn the key back of then back on. viola! problem solved, at least until you don't have enough compression to start it anyways. I am not responsible for you blowing your **** up! If you are not an electrical engineer don't even try this! If you are a mechanical engineer like me then you know some electrical engineers, they are dorks, but can help you out now.
Later
Patrick Harris

TheBigOne

that was exactly what i needed thanx

with the switch being a temp solution will cleaning the injectors and replacing the seals be the way to go for the correct solution??

i dont see how this relates to solviong the flood problem or relieving the excessive fuel pressure.

TheBigOne

I read, mention earlier that the 86-87 RX TII has lower compression does this mean its a lower on the todem pole RX-7. Im kinda new at rotary

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

Lower compression rotors means you can run higher boost levels more safely. Stock for stock the 89+ TII make more HP in part from higher compression rotors, but once you raise the boost levels the advantage declines. I am getting a 89+ "block" w/ 87-88 rotors rebuilt for my TII for instance.

Scott 89t2

I wouldn't put the switch on that line!! that will carry alot of current. I doubt a switch will take 40 amps... if you want to use that line use a relay!! but I think doing it under the dash at the fuel pump relay would be the best, as then you are only turning off the fuel pump. cutting out the egi fuse also kills spark. and the spark will help unflood it.