RWHP question?
ebay mods list states his car should be about 338WHP with the typhoon intake kit, ball and spring boost controller, chinese exhaust kit and turbo timer. he also has plenty of stickers to make up for the rest.
Thread Starter
Mike
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Loganville, Ga
Didnt read the second page of posts lol...I think he had the dyno sheet with those numbers. But he recently purchased the car and the shop working on the car before he bought it isnt very trust worthy in my opinion. Not going to mention any names lol. So either they bullshited the duno sheet and lied to him or his car has an issue..
Rotorhead
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 39
From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
FYI an engine rebuild is about $1,200 to $6,000, depending on what parts are ruined and how much work you can do yourself.
... not on an extended port 13B with 4x720cc injectors and a band-aid fuel control system.
Rotorhead
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 39
From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
A street ported 13B with an upgraded turbo at 12psi will typically dyno in the 325-375hp range. I have no explanation why your car was "faster" than his, and I have even less explanation as to why your engine has not blown yet.
Thread Starter
Mike
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Loganville, Ga
I already know what you will be pulling. You will be pulling your blown engine out of the car to rebuild it, and you may also be pulling your turbo for a rebuild. Your fuel system is NOT sufficient for 15psi on an extended port 13B, and the stock turbo is entirely too small to flow that kind of volume at 15psi. I highly recommend that you fix the fuel and turbo issues prior to racing the car.
FYI an engine rebuild is about $1,200 to $6,000, depending on what parts are ruined and how much work you can do yourself.
... not on an extended port 13B with 4x720cc injectors and a band-aid fuel control system.
FYI an engine rebuild is about $1,200 to $6,000, depending on what parts are ruined and how much work you can do yourself.
... not on an extended port 13B with 4x720cc injectors and a band-aid fuel control system.
Im sure he can reach those numbers but like myself and others have said maybe I pulled on him because his car isnt running right. As in something could have happened to it between the time of dyno and the time we raced. My car hasnt blown because I dont romp on it around every damn corner and I take care of it.
just trying to save you some headache and the near future blown motor if you keep on this path.
some people have managed with similar setups for a number of years, do not think you can do the same because those people were lucky to have had the engine stay together for that long.
for example i had a customer come in with ignition timing advanced a full tooth, running almost 30* of advance FURTHER than stock timing settings, that is OVER 70* timing advance... they took me out and i could hear a popcorn maker under the hood and that car ran that way for many months! it was a ticking timebomb and it only took me 3 minutes to fix.
the stock turbo is only good for 285WHP, do not let anyone try to trick you into thinking otherwise.
the main issue with piggybacks and/or the stock ECU with the FCD is you have zero way of controlling timing and the FCD causes a further split in the proper timing curve of the engine for smooth usage throughout the whole RPM range. we can't reprogram these turd ECUs and piggybacks aren't even close to ideal replacements for a standalone when doing more than a small handful of mods.
keep the power low and relatively safe or pay to learn the hard way, 10psi is max for stock fuel system. 12psi is about max for a chipped ECU for larger injectors if you upgraded the fuel pump. beyond that you need a good intercooler replacement and a standalone EMS. the first still not addressing the timing mapping issue.
some people have managed with similar setups for a number of years, do not think you can do the same because those people were lucky to have had the engine stay together for that long.
for example i had a customer come in with ignition timing advanced a full tooth, running almost 30* of advance FURTHER than stock timing settings, that is OVER 70* timing advance... they took me out and i could hear a popcorn maker under the hood and that car ran that way for many months! it was a ticking timebomb and it only took me 3 minutes to fix.
the stock turbo is only good for 285WHP, do not let anyone try to trick you into thinking otherwise.
the main issue with piggybacks and/or the stock ECU with the FCD is you have zero way of controlling timing and the FCD causes a further split in the proper timing curve of the engine for smooth usage throughout the whole RPM range. we can't reprogram these turd ECUs and piggybacks aren't even close to ideal replacements for a standalone when doing more than a small handful of mods.
keep the power low and relatively safe or pay to learn the hard way, 10psi is max for stock fuel system. 12psi is about max for a chipped ECU for larger injectors if you upgraded the fuel pump. beyond that you need a good intercooler replacement and a standalone EMS. the first still not addressing the timing mapping issue.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Apr 29, 2012 at 02:10 PM.
Rotorhead
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 39
From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
V
V
V
V
I'm posting in this thread for the benefit of others reading it. I honestly don't think that you will listen to reason. My goal is to simply keep others from doing stupid things.
Thread Starter
Mike
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Loganville, Ga
just trying to save you some headache and the near future blown motor if you keep on this path.
some people have managed with similar setups for a number of years, do not think you can do the same because those people were lucky to have had the engine stay together for that long.
for example i had a customer come in with ignition timing advanced a full tooth, running almost 30* of advance FURTHER than stock timing settings, that is OVER 70* timing advance... they took me out and i could hear a popcorn maker under the hood and that car ran that way for many months! it was a ticking timebomb and it only took me 3 minutes to fix.
the stock turbo is only good for 285WHP, do not let anyone try to trick you into thinking otherwise.
the main issue with piggybacks and/or the stock ECU with the FCD is you have zero way of controlling timing and the FCD causes a further split in the proper timing curve of the engine for smooth usage throughout the whole RPM range. we can't reprogram these turd ECUs and piggybacks aren't even close to ideal replacements for a standalone when doing more than a small handful of mods.
keep the power low and relatively safe or pay to learn the hard way, 10psi is max for stock fuel system. 12psi is about max for a chipped ECU for larger injectors if you upgraded the fuel pump. beyond that you need a good intercooler replacement and a standalone EMS. the first still not addressing the timing mapping issue.
some people have managed with similar setups for a number of years, do not think you can do the same because those people were lucky to have had the engine stay together for that long.
for example i had a customer come in with ignition timing advanced a full tooth, running almost 30* of advance FURTHER than stock timing settings, that is OVER 70* timing advance... they took me out and i could hear a popcorn maker under the hood and that car ran that way for many months! it was a ticking timebomb and it only took me 3 minutes to fix.
the stock turbo is only good for 285WHP, do not let anyone try to trick you into thinking otherwise.
the main issue with piggybacks and/or the stock ECU with the FCD is you have zero way of controlling timing and the FCD causes a further split in the proper timing curve of the engine for smooth usage throughout the whole RPM range. we can't reprogram these turd ECUs and piggybacks aren't even close to ideal replacements for a standalone when doing more than a small handful of mods.
keep the power low and relatively safe or pay to learn the hard way, 10psi is max for stock fuel system. 12psi is about max for a chipped ECU for larger injectors if you upgraded the fuel pump. beyond that you need a good intercooler replacement and a standalone EMS. the first still not addressing the timing mapping issue.
Dude if you think running the car one time in the last 3-4 months that ive owned the car is romping it around every corner than you must not have very much fun lol. I baby the **** out of this car! Lol I drive it a few times a week and it doesn't see over 2psi of boost. That's beside the point...I am willing to listen to reason but its all in the way you talk to people. Haven't you noticed I havent had a problem with anyone else telling me I'm headed for trouble if I don't lower the boost...
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
4x720 is more than enough fuel for the stock turbo , its just going to run stupid rich w/o fuel control. Also the stock timing maps cannot be trusted in high boost. I don't recall how much, but it runs 25°+ advance in boost.
WTF is a Piston?..Anyone?
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 872
Likes: 1
From: regina
[QUOTE=3xBlack Vert-top Mike;11072411Can the stock turbo be rebuilt to be efficient at 15PSI? .[/QUOTE]
http://www.bnrsupercars.com/
scroll to bottom of page untill you find stage 4 .....read stage 4
http://www.bnrsupercars.com/
scroll to bottom of page untill you find stage 4 .....read stage 4
Well here's a number for you to consider. Years ago I had a set up very close to that and I put down 220 RWHP. That was in Denver where the air is a little thin at over 5,000 feet. Just my $.02
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