rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

i met this guy that is running premix after he took all of the emissions off. i am planning on taking all the emissions off starting with the air pump and then to the rest.


i was planning on running premix but wanted to know all of the details on this....what is the best two stroke oil to run...how much oil to put in the tank...etc

adrock3217

There is no best 2-stroke, but if you think there is, go with Idemitsu. It's "made" for rotaries, and was used in the 24 hours of LeMans 787B. I use this :-D..Sold at RX7.com...

Mix one ounce per gallon. Two ounces per gallon when at the track.

Don't worry about mixing too much, until you mix roughly 5-6ounces per gallon, you won't have any issues.

masao

le sigh

You, sir, did not search.


But adrocks advice is good.

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

i went to walmart and got the big jug of 2 stroke boat oil...

FCrocious

iTrader: (1)

ditto. I went to westmarine and got the same thing. I still have the OMP but i premix a smaller amount per gallon

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

ok thanks for the advice and hopefully ill be getting some of the emissions off and get to premixing

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Yep, I got the marine 2-stroke. Anything with TC-W3 rating will work fine.

adrock3217

Actually, for you people who are SUPER lazy, like me..


"Wawa" stores carry a really small jug, I think 12oz of 2-stroke..


If you can count, this is almost the exact amount needed for a full tank of gas Which you should never go under 1/4 anyways..so..yeah!

iceblue

Searching is still good there is coutnless threads on this and some with good advice.

You run 100:1 ratio there is no point in runing 2oz per gallong thats just wasting oil your money and lowering the octain in your fuel. Somewhere around 1oz per gallon is fine .75oz I balive is 100:1.

I run Klots R50 oil. I prefer good oil over cheep oils and stay away from castor based oils.

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

Any particular reason why? I used to run Maxima Castor 927 in my J-bridged 13B, w/N2O. I ran this in a 1st gen for about a year and a half, and drove the car almost daily. The car would see a bottle of N2O every 1-2 weeks, with repetitive bounces off the rev limiter at 10k rpms. The car is still running great 1 year after I sold the car. Of course the kid only drives it 2-3 times/month. I never had any troubles with using Castor 927. You can purchase a gallon of the stuff at most motorcycle shops for about $25/gallon. I would also mix at a ration of 2.5 ounces/5 gallons, per Racing Beat's recommendation.

iceblue

I love castor oils if I felt it was ok I would be runing blenzol gold label! I love that stuff.

Great oil it exspands when it ignites but has a very high ash after burn content. Much higher ability to stick the seals in the rotors and clog 6pt sleves or even make build up on the exhaust enough to take out an apex seal.

Same concept of why when you run it in a power valve motor you have to clean the power valve like all the time or it will become stuck shut

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

5-6ounces per gallon?!

Steel

Oh yeah, and why's that?

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

if you like leaving people behind you in clouds of smoke, sure

im using the marine tcw3 2 stroke right now, it was the only thing advance auto had in stock

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

I agree that this would be the case with most castor-based lubricants. The 927 formula differs from the rest. Here's a quote from Maxima's site (http://www.maximausa.com/products/2stroke/castor927.asp): "Castor 927 is a unique blend of highly refined castor oil, a specially prepared synthetic and an additive system that reduces carbon and gum formation and provides excellent rust & corrosion protection. Castor 927 also contains an exclusive additive that keeps power valves cleaner and working properly. For all of us that wish to keep our air and water cleaner, Castor 927 is biodegradable. Castor 927 keeps on lubricating; where other lubricants turn to carbon or vaporize, and provides extra protection on cylinder walls, bearing journals and other critical areas at temperatures much higher than other lubricants."

Not trying to pick a battle here, just listing different options for premixing. You, just like everyone else posting in this thread, has made very valid points. I do agree with adrock that Idemitsu is the best choice, but it is difficult to locate. The times, in the past, that I would try and order it, everyone I called would be out. No one local ever carried it. I was forced to find an alternative premix. I went back to the days of me racing 2 stroke ATVs, and chose the 927...the same as I used then.

This seems to be a never ending subject.

iceblue

I like your information and that sounds good. But I am wondering if there claims are speculating that there oil produces less carbon ash then other castors or it produces equal or less then non castor based.

If indead it produces equal or less then non castor based is there anyone that realy has exsperiance, or any race documentation that it is a high grade quality oil, such as blenzoil or redline or klots?

jtbshaw

iTrader: (33)

I dunno, iceblue, I can only vouch for their statements from their site and other company information that I have read over the years.

So far as experience, as I stated before, I used this product in my J-bridged 13B for nearly a year and a half, with no problems what so ever. Prior to that, I ran it in the same engine as a street port. When I tore the engine down for J-bridging, the rotors were very clean. This was after nearly 6 months of use in the street port, every day driving, track time, and continual 8k rpms (as street port) and continual 10k rpms (as J-bridge). Of course, as with anything, tuning plays a huge roll. My setup was constantly monitored and tuned for optimum performance. You can see what the car looked like, and what all I had personally done to the car (including painting the car), here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/852654. Not trying to hijack.

All I'm saying is that the Castor 927 proved very successful for my application. This new project that I have just taken on will be running the same premix.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

This is from the archives: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=MOP


Should help you out a bit.

jurr1981

Can you premix even if you still have the stock OMP?
I tried searching but couldnt find a difinitive answer.

The reason I ask is because I will be breaking in a newly rebuilt motor. One mechanic I spoke to suggested that I premix so that the motor gets extra lubrication during the break in process. It sounded like a reasonable idea to me, but I just wanna check that it wouldn't be overkill to run premix if I still have the OMP...

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

the answer is yet

jurr1981

i take it you mean "yes, you can do it," not "yes it's overkill,"? hehehe

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There's no reason to if your metering oil pump is working. The stock system has been designed to properly oil the engine under all conditions, including breakin.

rxsevn89

I have been told by one of the best engine builders in the world and he happens to own rx7.com and he says the best mix to run is 4oz. per 10 gallons. Any more than that can lower octane to much and cause detination and that fubars you. I use supertech two stroke oil. They sell small bottles and up to a gallon. I found out that walmarts supertech oil is made by Amsoil whick some people say is the best in the world. I found this out from a man I trust who builds monster truck motors and trannys. His stuff is in many famous name trucks. Like Playing For Keeps.

rx7-kid

iTrader: (1)

I've been reading about people do premix but i dont understand the benefit and how to do it and is it still emission legal if you premix.

jurr1981

Aaron you really know your shi'ite so I'm inclined to believe you that it is not necessary if the OMP is working ok.

But let me ask you this: Though it would be unnecessary to premix, would it be BAD? I mean would it lower the octane as mentioned and lead to detonation or something?