Running out of Coolant
#2
Passing life by
Fix the leak! Check to make sure the coolant seals are not blown.
Then use a 35/65 ratio of gyclo and watter. If I did not spell gyclo right it is antafreez.
I run 30/68 ratio with royal purple's purple ice or watter wetter.
Then use a 35/65 ratio of gyclo and watter. If I did not spell gyclo right it is antafreez.
I run 30/68 ratio with royal purple's purple ice or watter wetter.
#7
Passing life by
No. Close that is a 50/50 mix. Get a 100% coolant not premixed.
If it is leaking through the coolant seals internaly forget about it. You need to buy a new motor. It is blown and probably very little useable parts.
If it is leaking through the coolant seals internaly forget about it. You need to buy a new motor. It is blown and probably very little useable parts.
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#11
You get half the coolant with the premixed 50/50. If you have a gallon of pure coolant which costs the same as the premix, then you can mix 2 gal instead of one. Before you go out and buy all that stuff, check your oil and if it's like a chocolate colored watery mix, then your coolant seals are blown and you need a new motor.
#16
Passing life by
Little less cooling capabilitys. If you go to low on gyclo then you wont be able to cool enough and over heat and if you go to high you wont have as much capacity at hand.
#19
Rockn' The Galant
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Wow, talk about a bunch of bad advice.
1) There is nothing wrong with using pre-mixed coolant, I use it because I like to know what I put in my car is measured out perfectly with a machine vs. the ol' eye method...water has better heat properties but coolant lubes the water pump...yadadada
2) If the coolant seals are done for you don't need to go out and buy a new one, most likely the internals will be fine just rebuild it and it'll be fine.
3) Synthetic oil wouldn’t have anything to do with this, it happens from overheating…
4) Not always will the oil be milky, my SE had bad seals (got to the point where you could do a 007 smoke screen in the mornings on start up and it wouldn’t even think about starting up hot). I had no symptoms besides the smoke, no chalky oil, no blowing the cap off the resv...
If you're not getting a lot of smoke on start up, then start looking for leaks, they can be anywhere and out of site.
Get some UV Coolant Additive and put it in there and look for the leak with a black light or some other type of light like that or simply turn the engine on, hold the revs and start looking for coolant spraying anywhere.
- Tech
1) There is nothing wrong with using pre-mixed coolant, I use it because I like to know what I put in my car is measured out perfectly with a machine vs. the ol' eye method...water has better heat properties but coolant lubes the water pump...yadadada
2) If the coolant seals are done for you don't need to go out and buy a new one, most likely the internals will be fine just rebuild it and it'll be fine.
3) Synthetic oil wouldn’t have anything to do with this, it happens from overheating…
4) Not always will the oil be milky, my SE had bad seals (got to the point where you could do a 007 smoke screen in the mornings on start up and it wouldn’t even think about starting up hot). I had no symptoms besides the smoke, no chalky oil, no blowing the cap off the resv...
If you're not getting a lot of smoke on start up, then start looking for leaks, they can be anywhere and out of site.
Get some UV Coolant Additive and put it in there and look for the leak with a black light or some other type of light like that or simply turn the engine on, hold the revs and start looking for coolant spraying anywhere.
- Tech
#20
Passing life by
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Wow, talk about a bunch of bad advice.
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
1) There is nothing wrong with using pre-mixed coolant, I use it because I like to know what I put in my car is measured out perfectly with a machine vs. the ol' eye method...water has better heat properties but coolant lubes the water pump...yadadada
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
2) If the coolant seals are done for you don't need to go out and buy a new one, most likely the internals will be fine just rebuild it and it'll be fine.
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
3) Synthetic oil wouldn’t have anything to do with this, it happens from overheating…
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
4) Not always will the oil be milky, my SE had bad seals (got to the point where you could do a 007 smoke screen in the mornings on start up and it wouldn’t even think about starting up hot). I had no symptoms besides the smoke, no chalky oil, no blowing the cap off the resv...
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
If you're not getting a lot of smoke on start up, then start looking for leaks, they can be anywhere and out of site.
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Get some UV Coolant Additive and put it in there and look for the leak with a black light or some other type of light like that or simply turn the engine on, hold the revs and start looking for coolant spraying anywhere.
Last edited by iceblue; 08-08-05 at 01:29 AM.
#22
Rockn' The Galant
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No Iceblue, wasn't trying to go back on you.
It was white smoke in the morning indicating that coolant was getting into the combustion process, not oil smoke.
'Good advice. Flush your system vigorously after this.' - Why? There's nothing wrong with the additive, it doesnt kill your cooling, lots of shop use this plus a pressure tester to see if they can find a leak and it usually works, no after effects of using it.
My leak got bigger and bigger and bigger until the point where the car wouldnt start without having mucho battery power and lots of time then it left a little something like this;
It was white smoke in the morning indicating that coolant was getting into the combustion process, not oil smoke.
'Good advice. Flush your system vigorously after this.' - Why? There's nothing wrong with the additive, it doesnt kill your cooling, lots of shop use this plus a pressure tester to see if they can find a leak and it usually works, no after effects of using it.
My leak got bigger and bigger and bigger until the point where the car wouldnt start without having mucho battery power and lots of time then it left a little something like this;
#23
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by iceblue
If you go to low on glyco then you wont be able to cool enough and over heat and if you go to high you wont have as much capacity at hand.
Originally Posted by iceblue
Glycol raises the boiling point and lowers the freezing point not to lube the water pump.
#24
Passing life by
Ok yea it does have a lubricant in it. To lube the valves and so on. As far as lubricating the water pump yea ok maybe. I am wrong.
I did not just contradict myself. Lets look at this again. Yes water does offer the best cooling properties. But water turns to steam and evaporates, this is bad. This will cause pressure rise. In return the cap will vent to the puke tank all the steam will vent away and leave the system forever. STEAM DOES NOT COOL! This reaction will quickly dissipate the cooling system resulting in over heating.
I did not just contradict myself. Lets look at this again. Yes water does offer the best cooling properties. But water turns to steam and evaporates, this is bad. This will cause pressure rise. In return the cap will vent to the puke tank all the steam will vent away and leave the system forever. STEAM DOES NOT COOL! This reaction will quickly dissipate the cooling system resulting in over heating.
#25
I'm a boost creep...
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Thanks for the physics lesson, but that doesn't change the fact that your statement that "If you go to low on glyco then you wont be able to cool enough and over heat" is complete BS. You can quite safely run on pure water.
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