88_10TH_AE

Just recently my tail lights, marker lights, and interior dash lights suddenly stopped working. my headlights, and highbeams work normally. should i just get a new switch or do I have to get into the wiring?

REnthusiaSTS

Did you check your fuses? I just recently had the right-side marker stop working...I checked the bulb and replaced it, but I think I'm gonna' have to replace the wire to get it to work...as for the interior light, Yeah, sometimes it works when the doors open...and sometimes it doesn't. Let me know if you have any luck with that...thanks.

NoRotor,NoMotor

Yeah i recently had this problem also, i checked the main fuse panel and checked the 15A fuse and nothing was burnt and then i was told it could be more than likely the headlight switch, so i bought a new fullly rebuilt headlight switch from icemark. and hopefully it'll fix my problem

REnthusiaSTS

i was told it could be more than likely the headlight switch, so i bought a new fullly rebuilt headlight switch from icemark. and hopefully it'll fix my problem[/QUOTE]

...headlight switch? Is that where the cluster and dash is all at? Sorry, newbie questions...

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

You most likely need to rebuild the curcuit. Chances are, either the wire harness for the switch is burnt or the switch is burnt. If you fix one, it's only a matter of time before the other blows.

There is a write up by Icemark in the 2nd Gen archives which involves adding a 30A relay to the curciut. It is fairly simple for anyone that can splice wires and crimp/soulder.

I did the repair in about 1 hour after burning out 1 switch and 2 harneses. Since the repair, all lights work great.

REnthusiaSTS

There is a write up by Icemark in the 2nd Gen archives which involves adding a 30A relay to the curciut. It is fairly simple for anyone that can splice wires and crimp/soulder.

Dude, I tried to look for it...and I read two pages, but no luck.
Can you show the thread?

Thanks.

88_10TH_AE

Thanks for the advice. i checked out the post in the archive by Icemark and I will try the fix he has described, but i'm still not sure if I need a new switch or not because to repair is to prevent the problem from happening not ot repair it.

Icemark

The fix in the archive is for preventing the problem from happening. It won't solve it if it has already happened.

Only a rebuilt or new switch, and replacement light switch harness will solve that.

I do have a rebuilt 10thAE headlight switch in stock at my webstore.

So before you spend any money...

First check the fuse.

Then check the blue plugs under the dash (make sure it is plugged in all the way).

Then check the light switch.

If the switch is burnt where the plug plugs in, then you need to replace the switch and the headlight switch harness.

88_10TH_AE

Thanks for the help Icemark. I will check those thing first. If I do end up needing a switch and harness can I get one from you, and after replacing it should I perform the repair to prevent this from happening again? How much is the switch and harness (with shipping. i'm in Toronto, Canada)?

Icemark

The headlight switch harness you would need to get from your local Mazda dealer or Mazdatrix.com, but I do have a 10thAE headlight switch in stock, found on the bottom of this page (price in US dollars): http://www.mazdamark.com/switches.htm

as a reminder on the headlight switch harness, you must stick to a S4 (86-88) headlight switch harness if you go to a junk yard in search of one. It must be free of any burnt discoloring at the switch. If your switch is not dis-colored or burnt, then you can re-use it, but if it is melted/dis-colored or damaged at the plug in any way, it needs to be replaced. The connector inside will have a radically increased resistance if the plug is burnt, and the same problem will happen all over again.

Two things you can do to help prevent this from happening, are:
#1 the parking light relay mod (moves the high current off the switch and to a relay).
#2 check your parking light bulbs and sockets. if the lights leaked at all, or the bulbs have been replaced, chances are they didn't use any condutive grease in the bulb's socket. The corrosion in the socket increases the load on the switch until the wiring gives out at the weakest point (usually the switch). So putting a nice layer of conductive grease in around the bulb will solve the problem and prevent corrosion of the socket.

REnthusiaSTS

Thanks to you IceMark, I have a better view of where my problems are at...THANX.

REnthusiaSTS
'88 GTU N/A