Tested my rtek 1.7+TD06-20g combo today with my wideband and i had around 12.0@10psi.

Good or bad??
The car pulled like crazy!!!!! and ran very smooth and nice!

Mods:

-Greddy TD06-20G externally gated
-walbro
-SAFC2
-3" turboback
-Custom TID
-Fully modded TB
-720cc secondaries
-STOCK TMIC AT THE TESTING TIME
-Wideband
(PLX-M300)
-Blitz dual SBC-type S
-Removed emissions
-Blitz super sound
-No ABS and so on

And by the way..... G-tech says about 275hp at the crank :-P

 

that is good.

 

12.0:1 sounds about right for 10psi, at least on a "safe" tune.

-=Russ=-

 

okey...good to hear. Allthou I just tuned it to about 11.5 just to be safe.

But what is the lean limit when tuning a rotary at about 10-11psi?
12.2-12.5??

I won't lean out more then 12.0 anyway.... I'am just courius :-D

 

good god your running that turbo with an rtek crazy **** man! Let us know how it turns out in a few weeks I think ottoman was wanting info on the same setup because he was thinking about going this rout but everyone was saying to go full standalone with that turbo. Holy **** and only 720cc secondaries??? Oh damn and all on tmic???? Boy you got bigger ***** then me

 

it doesnt matter if it ison a retek,orstockecu, or just afc, or emanage
12AFR IS 12AFR

how hard isit to understand? there is nothing wrong with what he is doing...

 

i personally would put bigger secondaries in there.. try to get it down to 11.5 at least.. you should at least be there at 10psi. id aim for that but good to hear its working for you for now

 

the stock ecu and even the rteck chipped ecu is made to handle only so much to a point and that turbo is good for well over stock levels so first a 550/720cc combo is not going to support enough fuel for that turbo also a tmic with that turbo is just asking for high intake temps and lastly the STOCK ecu with only an rtek chip is not going to give him the kind of timming control he is going to need for that turbo. Yes 12 is 12afr but thats only part of the equation.

 

uhhhh
you can go pretty far with a stock ECU as long he has his fuel right. his timing should be around there too - not optimal,but around there.
it will work great.

high intake temp? are you saying a different ECU woudl lower the intaketemp?

a 550/720 combo is obviously enough for 10 psi - esp when he had already tuned to 11.5

why do you have to bash his setup when you have NO EXPERIENCE with what he is doing?


there are many ways to do it - obviously, yours isnt the only...
there is a guy local here who made 433rwhp with stock ecu, aic, fmic, tuning, and a t04s
the stock ecu can definately go far if it gets some support from piggies and bandages

 

FMIC is allmost done!!

And yes....now am i running at 10PSI@11.6:1 AFR all the way to the redline.

Can't wait to fit my FMIC and 720/1000 combo and get it tuned with both EGT and wideband...just to get some proof of what you can accomplish with stock ECU.

I am going to fit microtech in the winter aswell so don't worry, and by the way..... i will probably rebuild and port my engine so i am not to afraid with my engine

 

What is the stock AFR? 14.7? I assume that's stoich... But 12 is pretty rich isn't it?

Or is that only for WOT?

 

lol speak of the devil and he shall appear...


according to Ted.. he said "be careful"

the 720/550 combo is good to roughly 310 RWHP... so u still have some head room to go...


p.s. my eyes lit up when i saw this thread.. cuz i'm in the exact same boat

SAFC2+rtek 1.7 except i have a greddy front mount

i'll be watching this one for awhile

 

I think everyone without an EMS is in the same boat, lol.

 

I will keep you updated!!

And remember one thing.....not that i am sure it mathers but this test was done with the SWEDISH version och the 99octane pump gas "shell v-power" and with 10degrees celsius in the verý foggy air :-D ..just for the record

 

Also remember that the rtek 1.7 does retard timing a little not a lot but it does retard timing a little as an fyi

 

I don't believe the RTEK guys designed their product to use such a BIG turbo like that - please consult them about it first!

Second, if that 12.0 is a true reading, it's TOO LEAN.
Yeah, it'll feel good, but you're going to eventually pop the motor - check the spark plugs.
I'd be scared to run anything above 11.5, and I would rather have it at least low 11's like 11.2 or lower.


-Ted

 

*cough* 100octane.

 

is that RON PON or MON

cuz japan is supposedly 100 as well.. but it's not =USA 100


btw i forgot to ask
on the stock turbo boosted to around 12psi.. on the AFC the AFM % reds 99%!


what's your reading?

 

hes from swedon running 100 octane gasoline
ted is wrong.... *Isigh* i guess when peoplek are overly conident, they make alot of mistakes...

 

12.0:1 is not safe. anywhere UNDER 12.0:1 is usually safe, but you're skating on detonation at 12.0:1

why do you have a big 20g and a stock remapped ECU? get a smaller turbo or an EMS and some more fuel.

edit: ok then, keep that 100+ octane fuel in there 24/7 i guess... ???

 

if you where actually reading my thread rather than trying to bash me for "bashing his setup" then you would understand why I think his intake temps are going to be high. Read my post again I named three things I felt he needed to change, lets go over this again class.

top mounted intercooler
ecu
injectors

Now the top mounted intercooler as we all know is not very efficiant when it comes to much more over stock especially with a big bad turbo like that one. also his injectors only support 300 or so hp and he is deffinatley going to be over 300hp. also his ecu for timming and other things that a standalone does so much better. So now that I just retyped my last post now you may get what I was getting at but odds are probably not. Anyways He has fixed his intercooler and injector setup so now who knows may work just fine. If anything I hope his setup works great for ottomans sake and for my own because I don't have a standalone either and I will soon be running a large streetport with a bnr stage III on rtek / fmic / and 550/890cc combo.

 

I don't think his setup is about someone being right or wrong. It is all about margin for error.

So, we still need to know if the Swedish 99 Octane is Pump Octane? Because 99 Research Octane basically equals 94 PON. In other words, it's just regular gas, not anything fancy.

 

Look....i AM GOING TO FIT THE MICROTECH and the fmic is already mounted as we speak!
But when i did the tests i tuned it with the SAFC to about 11.6 later that night.

1000cc injectors is fitted on the secondary fuel rail and the 720's is moved to the primary...this for about 20 minutes ago.

I think it is 99 octane RON!?..not sure thou.
Spark plugs indicated a LITTLE LITTLE bit to lean...still brown not wite but to "light brown" if you understand me.

And by the way... the wastgate vacumhose popped off at one time with boostclimb to about 1 bar... AFR in the mid 13's THATS BAD but i did a compression test and still 115psi all the way around. Engine still alive (lucky one i know)

Next month i will fit the microtech and get it tuned on a dyno!
New figures then :-D

 

Actually, that's way too lean if we're talking on boost.
The color you describe sounds like normal spark plugs you pull...which have been running 14.7 closed-loop stoic under cruising.
The spark plugs should come out a little flat black to indicate it's running slightly rich.
The extra gas is to prevent detonation under boost - it's not for more power.
"Ideal" power is around 12.7 to 12.8 (for non-turbo), but boosted engines are too dangerous to be running that kinda AFR's, so the richer mixtures are recommended.


-Ted

 

just want to add...the sparkplugs were brand new!
Only been in the engine for about 30 minutes MAX.
I guess they will get darker the more you drive??