Rtek 1.7+TD06-20g=AFR: 12.0:1!?
#26
Brother of the Rotary
iTrader: (2)
Ted, I'm wondering how reading the spark plugs relates to a (supposedly) correctly tuned car. My car is tuned lean for cruising (14.7-15.3 AFR), but under boost I am around 11.4-11.5 AFR.
My car sees a lot more cruise than boost, so the plugs (NGK Iridiums) are usually a dark tan color near the electrode and a darker brown near the threads. That sound about right?
(Before my car was tuned, they used to be almost wet black).
Thanks.
My car sees a lot more cruise than boost, so the plugs (NGK Iridiums) are usually a dark tan color near the electrode and a darker brown near the threads. That sound about right?
(Before my car was tuned, they used to be almost wet black).
Thanks.
#27
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by eViLRotor
Ted, I'm wondering how reading the spark plugs relates to a (supposedly) correctly tuned car. My car is tuned lean for cruising (14.7-15.3 AFR), but under boost I am around 11.4-11.5 AFR.
My car sees a lot more cruise than boost, so the plugs (NGK Iridiums) are usually a dark tan color near the electrode and a darker brown near the threads. That sound about right?
(Before my car was tuned, they used to be almost wet black).
My car sees a lot more cruise than boost, so the plugs (NGK Iridiums) are usually a dark tan color near the electrode and a darker brown near the threads. That sound about right?
(Before my car was tuned, they used to be almost wet black).
This is easier down the drag strip.
You run the car hard and shut the engine off, and let the car coast.
This is not exactly convenient on the street!
But you get the idea...
Even driving around, if you're boosting most of the time, it takes a while for those rich deposits to burn off...
What you looking for mostly is the *absence* of leaning.
No white center insulator...
No beads of metal anywhere on the tip of the spark plug...
At least this is telling you you're not hurting the motor!
-Ted
#32
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Technically, so are a lot of Asian cars... er...people.
Just wondering, but would the narrow-band A/F gauge they sell on RX7.com be enough for tuning a 13BT? At least without a massive turbo setup...
Just how high can you go on a piggyback anyway? hehe
Just wondering, but would the narrow-band A/F gauge they sell on RX7.com be enough for tuning a 13BT? At least without a massive turbo setup...
Just how high can you go on a piggyback anyway? hehe
#33
3-Rotor madness
Thread Starter
don't bother a narrowband!
piggyback....honestly if you want to be safe... nothing bigger then a small hybrid!
I KNOW my setup is no good but i don't care since i am going te do a rebuild before i get my microtech tuned in the spring 2006. Don't wanna blow my turbo thou...
piggyback....honestly if you want to be safe... nothing bigger then a small hybrid!
I KNOW my setup is no good but i don't care since i am going te do a rebuild before i get my microtech tuned in the spring 2006. Don't wanna blow my turbo thou...
#34
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by slpin
there are many ways to do it - obviously, yours isnt the only...
there is a guy local here who made 433rwhp with stock ecu, aic, fmic, tuning, and a t04s
the stock ecu can definately go far if it gets some support from piggies and bandages
there is a guy local here who made 433rwhp with stock ecu, aic, fmic, tuning, and a t04s
the stock ecu can definately go far if it gets some support from piggies and bandages
#35
7th Heaven
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by snub disphenoid
Incorrect. That car had a custom reprogrammed stock ECU with the AFM converted to blow-through, two additional injectors, and 34efi extra injector controller that was programmed via wideband and laptop. The guy that made it also has lots of experience tuning RX-7s.
and how is that different than what i said?
stock ecu, aic, fmic, tuning
are you trying to be cute or you just cant read?
Last edited by slpin; 11-08-05 at 05:54 PM.
#37
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by slpin
and how is that different than what i said?
are you trying to be cute or you just cant read?
are you trying to be cute or you just cant read?
I guess hybrid turbos are still stock turbos, too, right? Seems like you're really stuck on names.
The fact is, the guy is running a chipped (read: NOT STOCK) ECU with a turbo setup different from what the chip is used for. That's what people are going "uhh..." about. Sure, he could **** with his SAFC-II to change the AFRs, but the fact is that he's still running a base fuel/ignition map meant for a car with a different setup, and it WOULD run better with a custom chip/full standalone. He CAN continue with this car, this way, as long as he keeps his AFRs where they are now, but he's not maximizing its potential.
#39
Super Raterhater
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Originally Posted by evileagle
Noooo the ECU is stock, the programming that's on the chip isn't
Why do you say "converted" to blow-thru AFM?
Why do you say "converted" to blow-thru AFM?
#40
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
You're note Asian... be prepared for rejection!
Since you're not Asian or a woman, that means doubly rejected?
Man, I'm dropping too many of my "secrets" - I dunno if you guys are catching all of that.
Maybe I should shut up now!
-Ted
#41
Reverse Cerberus
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Then the ECU isn't stock, nor is the chip usually, since they're not very easily reprogrammed.
We reprogram the stock chips all day long :P
Programming the chips isn't hard, however desoldering the board and installing a socket with which you can make the chip easily insertable and removable is another story altogether
#42
7th Heaven
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by evileagle
We reprogram the stock chips all day long :P
Programming the chips isn't hard, however desoldering the board and installing a socket with which you can make the chip easily insertable and removable is another story altogether
Programming the chips isn't hard, however desoldering the board and installing a socket with which you can make the chip easily insertable and removable is another story altogether
exactly! stock ecu!
btw, i ordered the CS rear strut bar... when do you thinkm it iwll be shipped out?
Last edited by slpin; 11-09-05 at 12:40 PM.
#43
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Originally Posted by evileagle
We reprogram the stock chips all day long :P
Programming the chips isn't hard, however desoldering the board and installing a socket with which you can make the chip easily insertable and removable is another story altogether
Programming the chips isn't hard, however desoldering the board and installing a socket with which you can make the chip easily insertable and removable is another story altogether
Originally Posted by RETed
Yeah, sorry, I'm into Asian women.
Since you're not ... a woman, that means doubly rejected?
-Ted
Since you're not ... a woman, that means doubly rejected?
-Ted
For you Ted, he would be!
#45
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Originally Posted by RETed
Actually, that's way too lean if we're talking on boost.
The color you describe sounds like normal spark plugs you pull...which have been running 14.7 closed-loop stoic under cruising.
The spark plugs should come out a little flat black to indicate it's running slightly rich.
The extra gas is to prevent detonation under boost - it's not for more power.
"Ideal" power is around 12.7 to 12.8 (for non-turbo), but boosted engines are too dangerous to be running that kinda AFR's, so the richer mixtures are recommended.
-Ted
The color you describe sounds like normal spark plugs you pull...which have been running 14.7 closed-loop stoic under cruising.
The spark plugs should come out a little flat black to indicate it's running slightly rich.
The extra gas is to prevent detonation under boost - it's not for more power.
"Ideal" power is around 12.7 to 12.8 (for non-turbo), but boosted engines are too dangerous to be running that kinda AFR's, so the richer mixtures are recommended.
-Ted
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