Hello everyone,

I'm completely new here and recently bought a Turbo II. The whole thing is pretty much disassembled and I'm looking for some parts for it. Firstly, I don't know which way the fuel tank is connected because the two lines aren't marked.
Secondly, I want to reinstall the oil pan that the previous owner removed. I noticed that it has a large hole on the side, as if a sensor or a line should be attached to it. Can anyone tell me what to do next so I can continue?
Furthermore, the manual shifter is worn out. The spring is practically no longer there. On closer inspection, I found a pile of plastic parts in the tower. I fished everything out and installed a short shifter. Now I can't move the whole thing sideways at all or only with a lot of force. It works great back and forth.

Can anyone help me? Where is this spring and why is the shifter jamming like that?

If I've asked some questions here that have already been answered, I'm sorry. I'm glad I came here at all.

Thanks in advance

Greetings, Mooo

 

Welcome to the forum! You can find a factory service manual (for free) at www.foxed.ca.

Are these the lines at the pump or at the engine? Either way, I always forget too. They also changed (at the engine) which line is supply and which line is return depending on whether you have a JDM engine or not. Since you're in Europe, I'm not sure if your fuel lines have the USDM or JSM arrangement.

The easiest way is to just try to start the car, and then if it doesn't start you know you need to swap the lines. Of course, that relies on the lines at the pump being on correctly. If they're reversed too, you could potentially have an engine that runs but have the filter on the return instead of the supply!

I'd have to check the manual to confirm, but I think based on this photo the line closer to the center of the fuel pump mount is the supply:



And then there is a section of rubber line going to the factory hardlines, so I would visually verify which line has the filter in it (the supply side) and then connect it. I say visually, because the fuel lines on these cars are so old they have often been replaced. While you're under there, make sure the lines are free of rust and damage. You can never be too careful with fuel.

That's for the level-sensor. I like having a functional level-sensor, but if yours is missing or broken you can bolt a plate over that hole with some RTV sealant and it won't affect anything. That sensor doesn't go to the ECU and the car won't notice if it's not plugged in.

I think pictures might be required. I found that with a short-shifter and new bushings, the shifter was very stiff if everything wasn't seated correctly. Even once everything is seated correctly it takes awhile to break-in sometimes.

I would take it back apart and reassemble carefully (following Mazdatrix's instructions)

If that doesn't help at all, take pictures of what everything looks like and the order in which it's assembled, and we can try to help you.

Good luck, and add pictures of the car when you can!

 

The large hole in the left side of the oil pan is for the oil level sensor as shown below. The gasket is an o-ring that sits at the base of the flange.



Note that these photos are for US spec car. This is photo of fuel pump mounted on S5 fuel tank. The center hose (closest to electrical connector) is the high pressure, or supply, fuel line.



These are the fuel lines at rear of fuel tank, which is shown on the right. Don't quote me on this, but if I recall correctly the line at the top is the low pressure (return) and the line at the bottom is the high pressure (supply). You need to verify this because I'm referring to my notes which might be wrong.



Here is a photo of the hard lines under the car at the left frame rail. From the outside, there are 4 hard lines with the outermost being a 5mm brake fluid line. In this photo, that line is obscured by the lines in front of it. The next line is the 8mm high pressure (supply) fuel line. This is the line that connects to the fuel filter. The next line is the 8mm low pressure (return) fuel line. The innermost line is the 5mm fuel vapor return line.



At the engine, the line closest to the oil filter is the low pressure fuel line and the line farthest from the oil filter is the high pressure or supply fuel line.



As WondrousBread mentioned, always provide photos, if you can. Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

As to your shifter, you need a full set of new bushings. Mine had none at all for years without me noticing. Also there was no fluid below the shifter either. The mounting bolts were just left loose. I drove 30,000 miles like that before I knew enough to figure it out.

If you are able to, check the underside of the shifter housing. There is at least one bolt of sorts down there keeping the fluid in there.

If you look from the top of the housing near where the ball of the shifter goes, you should see a little bit of a hook. That is your return spring. I can't remember if it returns from the right or the left? If you can't see it you might just have fluid in the way. Find yourself a turkey baster or similar and empty out the housing the best you can and then look, then refill. I need to do this soon myself. I just can't remember how far to fill it. If you can't see the spring after all of that, it is likely broken off. It seems like a pretty common problem.

It isn't the end of the world to not have the spring. It is more troubling to not have the bushings like I did.

Also, it isn't worth the risk to drive without the rubber piece on the shifter. If it isn't there, exhaust gasses can get through. Not to mention rain water and everything else.
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I wrecked my second 7 because of exhaust gasses from a bad Cat knocked me out while driving with the cruise set on the highway, it was an auto transmission. I assume the gasses came from the shifter area though.

 

Thanks for all the answers.
I have now reinstalled the tank and connected the hoses as it looks in the pictures. The car has been standing since 2000 and according to the previous owner the last time the engine ran was 5 years ago. I will definitely try to replace the hoses if it doesn't start.
I will install the oil pan next, whether I can find the sensor now or not. After that I can give it a try.
I will definitely take pictures of the whole thing soon, but it's a bit difficult at the moment. Then I can also start the whole thing with the shifter again.
How is the tank actually attached? I put the metal straps on, but the whole thing has a bit of play. I can push the whole thing up a bit.

Does anyone have any tips for me before I start the engine? I just want to see it run first before it comes out and gets a rebuild.

Greetings Mooo

 

The fuel tank is attached with two steel straps, one on each side of the tank. The US spec RX7's had two different sized tanks depending on whether it was a Series 4 or 5. The different tanks had different straps. The attachment might help you.

 

Just a quick addition for the gas tank. On top of the tank, there should be foam so the tank does not touch the body of the car. I used fuel cell self adhesive strips. My tank was tight after that.
There is foam on the straps too.

 

Ah, okay, I didn't know that. The previous owner removed the metal bands and powder coated them. There is no foam anywhere to be seen. There is also nothing on the tank itself, which surprised me.
That should be enough for the first start, but something will definitely come up later.

 

I am sure the foam serves to keep things quiet and metal from rubbing, creating a spark. Come to think of it The strips were not self stick, I bought some spray glue. One lengthwise strip per side on top of the tank.