REAmemiya_fan

So i finally got my new Optima battery in, and its starts right up every time. Took it for a short drive (after it warmed up of course) and it felt amazing. I have a few questions though:

1. After giving it it's first shakedown (not pushing the car in any way), the car started to want to die when sitting still in neutural. Could it be lack of compression?

2.When i installed my new short shifter, i had to remove all the weather guard surrounding it (it was all torn up to begin with anyway). Where can i find a new guard?

3. When deccelrating and coming into a turn (when running the car semi-hard) i cannot choose first gear no matter how far my clutch is in. Is this a safety feature so that you can't overrev going down gears too fast or do i just suck at driving?

4. So my coolant system is burped, and my coolant level in the reserve tank is just barely a quarter inch below the max fill line and the stupid buzzer wont shut up until like a few mins of driving... Then it turns back on after i take a couple turns going less than 20 mph. What should I do?

Thanks for anyone who can help.

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

1. Could be a lot of things. TPS, BAC, thermalwax, timing, etc. Lack of compression usually causes flooding issues.

2. I believe Mazdatrix or Atkinsrotary carry those boots.

3. If you are moving why are trying to shift into 1st gear?

4. Check that the level sensor is plugged in and that the terminals are getting good connection. If so replace the sensor.

REAmemiya_fan

wow thanks for answering all of those.

I was doing like an autocross-type shakedown after the car was warmed and drove for a bit and some of the tighter corners in the schools parking lot needed a first gear turning response. But anyway thanks for the answers, ill check it all out tomorrow when i get back to school. (car currently has not plates/insurance/registration so cant really drive it home yet... )

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

When entering the turn just drop it into second gear, drop the clutch, and floor it until you hear beep, then let off a little.

Watch the road, don't look down, and keep two hands on the wheel.

Phearthe-Rx7

iTrader: (18)

1st gear does NOT have a syncro for the sole purpose of keeping you from shifting into first while the car is moving....not the most necessary of things in a rotary but on piston engines it keeps you from accidently hitting 1st instead of 3rd and over revving your engine....not much point to it anyhow I feel that 2nd gear pulls plenty well if your above 10 mph

REAmemiya_fan

Yea makes sense now that i think about it. I don't have much racing experience outside of simulations (i.e. iRacing, GranTurismo, etc.) so i just know the ideas and priciples of racing. It's a LOT different taking a 270 degree hairpin at Tsukuba on GranTurismo than it is doing it in your school's bus parking area.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

1. It could also possibly be your fuel pump or fuel filter.
4. Are you turning right? Check your oil level.

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

3. It's a feature called "your locked out of 1st gear until you learn how to drive a manual gearbox" : P Syncros are for pussies, old school cars had no syncros, very fun watching guys drive them (you can hear the gear box grinding a little once in a while during gear changes). Double clutch w/ revmatch into first gear. Don't recommend doing this until you have a good technique, but once learned will be second nature. : )

4. You still have air in the system. Jack up the front so it's higher than the rear, remove rad cap, run engine for 15 minutes with heater on full blast.

REAmemiya_fan

Lol thanks bro. I can heel-and-toe downshift just fine, but i still haven't gotten used to double-clutching yet. And i would do that if I didn't bypass my heater core until i can find out where the leak is coming from.

Also, just noticed this today, my car loses its power between 4-5k rpm then picks back up until 7k. Is that normal or could there be something conflicting?

Then, since my radiator fins are bents in all kind of directions at certain places, and because the clutch fan is super-rediculously loud under acceleration to where i can barely hear the engine, should i get a new fan+electric push-fans? And if so what's the best reccomendation under 2-300 bucks?

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I assume you're asking about a radiator/fan combo for under $300.
If not, I have several efan setups I'd be thrilled to part with for that price.

I have a Godspeed radiator and am impressed by the fit and performance for the money.
No doubt, several will recommend Koyo and a few may even plump for Fluidyne or Ron Davis.

If you search this forum (hint: keywords...electric fan, Taurus, Villager, Volvo, fan, blown fuse (oops)), there are lots and lots of competing electric fan discussions.
Some even have pictures.