shocker003

a little project i started. i picked up this shell off of craigs. its a 91 fc with 115k on the chassis. the bad is that the engine as all parted out. most of it seems to be there,( water pump, fuel pump, radiator, lower and upper intake manifold, rotors, housings, irons....... ill have to take a close look and look at all the part so make sure. the body seams to be in good shape, all tho the paint isn't. the pipping, inter cooler and turbo also came with other accessories like some gauges. this is quite a project in deed. ill post some pics up of the cleaning that i started. i plan to do a rebuild and a street port. another thing was (not sure if it was a good idea or not) i fitted the rotors to the eccentric shaft, and there seamed to be a little bit of play. is that normal? enough that you can move the shaft? i was told that the engine had low miles but no way of telling how many it had. also how can i tell what kind of ecu i have?

shocker003

shocker003

shocker003

back with a small update, today i took apart the turbo it came with, i think the turbo might of bin dropped or something was dropped on it. the waste gate lever (what ever you call it) seams to be bent.. i think its supposed to have a small bent but not as much as it does. also the bracket were it mounts on to the turbo seams to be bent....
im stuck on taking the compressor housing off. i want to check it out, make sure there isnt anything out of the ordinary. like i said im stuck. i cant get the housing off. there a special trick i should know about? anything i should look for?

shocker003

i did a little research and i think i have the "Kouki" engine, that the jdm version? i can tell by the turbo having the different waste gate(two passages) and also were the exhust flows in to the turbo is different ( both ports are the same size). something alse that is different is my upper intake manifold, i have the longer one witch came one the "kouki"

djchiptoothsfc

iTrader: (2)

Those rotors were crispy.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

why was the engine taken apart? just because of the turbo problem? look at the factory service manual (aka FSM in the 2nd gen FAQ or get a haynes manual) and start checking parts to see if they're good if you are doing this yourself. you'll need some semi expensive tools to check things. good luck and if it is your first rotary rebuild (sounds like it is), spend $20 on a rebuild dvd. helps a lot.

kouki just refers to the year styling (also known as a series 5 or S5 for short). 1986-88 were zenki (S4) and the engine had many small differences although they are similar. 1989-91 is what you got so make sure you get the right parts for your motor. MAKE SURE you have an entire S5 engine. some people put S5 turbos on S4 engines and swap sensors. I know the intake manifolds are slightly different as well as the compression ratio so just double check your block. use the search on this site to figure out what to compare. good luck, body looks nice.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

The dvd will be very helpful. I remember i had the atkins tape when i was 15. It was boring as hell but VERY handy to have. Get the dvd, read the FSM and owning a Haynes manual can help. I suggest getting the atkins master overhaul kit.

Also did the previous owner give you rotor housing? If so post up some pictures so we can see the condition.

shocker003

yeair, took a little while to get the carbon off.

shocker003

thanks for the info. i think it was because of the apex seals being stuck. i should be able to check sens with a digital volt meter right? is there a way of knowing if the engine parts and sensors are jdm? also the car came with the
"overhauling Mazda's 13B engine with Bruce turrentine"

as for the intake manifold i do have the longer version. also the rotor housings have the knock sensor on it. witch means that is the s5 housing right?

there a way to tell if the rotors are s5?

thanks

shocker003

shocker003

shocker003

those are pics of the housings before cleaning..

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

I think a volt meter would work for most of the sensors but I am no wiring guru. the important part to start with is to check your housings to see if they are in spec. http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com that link has some good advise in it but might be in your video as well. start by checking the side irons water jacket wall. the thin wall of metal outside the water seal can blow out, requiring a new iron. basicly to check the housings and irons you need calipers, feeler gauges, I think a 4" micrometer at least, and one of those height gauge things (has a needle on an end you can zero out and sits on its own block). Being good and bad can be a difference of .010 or smaller in some areas so double check everything there. obviously making sure the engine "block" itself is good to use is your first priority, and the rotors. sensors would be the last stage of checking imo. it might have just been carbon locked from sitting so hopefully its all good. haynes, FSM, and a good dvd (I haven't heard of yours but that doesn't mean its not good) make it easy. just tedious, take your time.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Its called a Dial Indicator. Shocker003, You will need these tools if you want to make sure everything is within spec. The housing look ok from what i can see. When your done with the rebuild please dont use FRAM oil filters liek the previous owner did.

shocker003

i think your right, i should make sure the block its self and internals are good before getting ahead of my self, im really excited to get this bad boy ruining. i took some measurements today, ill post up pics and specs.
again thanks fc fan for all the help and info

shocker003

i have some electronic digital calipers but there kinda small, i think ill have to get some bigger othes, i took some measurements tho, ill post them in a sec.
what brand filter should i run? again this is my first rx7, sorry for all the questions thanks for all the help

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

tolerances, how and where to measure, and directions can be found in the FSM or haynes manuals. FSM is free on this site. you just need to look at that and compare what you measured to the tolerances listed. if they are within the range then they are fine. if not, they should be replaced. that simple. your video (if a good one) should tell you all you need to know along the way as well as the manuals. just post up any measurements that are really close to being out of tolerance. also, just get a good dial caliper or an expensive digital one. cheap digitals tend to not be as accurate.

shocker003

last night i measured the eccentric shaft and is with in spec, the main bearings and rotor bearings(specially rotor bearings) on the other had are not. they will need to be replaced. i planed on replacing them anyway so no biggy, i also noted on one of the main bearings that a coper like color was starting to show. i was reading in another post that is signs of worn out bearings.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

yup, if there is ANY copper showing on the bearings then replace. Some will say if it is barely showing or really thin area then just reuse it but if you already are rebuilding, might as well replace it and save a pre mature break down due to those. you said that you could move the rotors on the e-shaft so that sounds pretty bad anyway.

shocker003

alrighty then sure will do, yea the rotors were perty bad, alot worse the the main bearings.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Rotor bearings/ Stat bearings have to go through MANY heat cycles before they are worn in properly. It actually takes longer for the bearings to wear in than it does for the apex seals. I think if there is more than 30% copper showing then they should be replaced. Thats what i heard a few times. If its barely any showing then you can reuse them no problem IMHO.

Post pics of the bearings for us.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

^that's contrary to what I have heard. 30% showing is a lot. what about the rotors moving on the e-shaft? wouldn't that be from the bearings too? how many miles do you think it would take to properly break in (assuming you let the engine warm up to normal operating temp before leaving)?

shocker003

let me say im kinda at a stand still dude to the fact that im broke lol, had to pay off some stuff and what not (ticket ) oh well i guess, just thot id point that out so you guys dont think im giving you the run round and that im all talk, hopefully soon i can start buying parts.....

so heres a couple of more random pics, last night i was just checking the parts out.

shocker003

can you tell what some of the parts and sensors are by looking at them?

1- upper right has to sensors. thos tps?
2- theres some stuck side seals that i cant get out... any ideas?
3-on the red piece theres a sensor.
4-
5- whats the plate blocking?
6-
7-thats the from oil regulator right? isn't there sposed to be a peace coming out of the left side? looks like the might of cut it off
8-
9-
sorry for suck a pain in the rear end..

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