Fupasaurous

So I no longer have the issue of my vehicle(1987 Mazda RX-7 FC3S N/A) not wanting to start it actually does so with no hesitation and runs like a champ once warmed up.

Oddly enough however once a connection to the battery is established all power is streaming through the vehicles electrical system WITHOUT THE KEY INSERTED, thus leading me to believe that somewhere in the circuit I am grounding out before the loop can return to the battery

BUT IT WONT SHUT OFF

1)Kill any/all power from the keyed ignition: No Response
2)Disconnect the negative lead from battery: No Response
3)Disconnect the positive lead from the battery: No Response
4)Disconnect the alternator from the loop: No Response

At this point the only way i can get the engine to cease running is to hold the brake firmly and stall it out ( very non-supportive of this method; would imagine constant repetition of this can not be good for the engine and other operating systems )

If anyone can chime in on what could be causing this it would save me much time and frustration and I would be forever thankful

MadScience_7

You can have the battery and alternator disconnected and the car continues runing??

Fupasaurous

yarp....once its started of course

satch

iTrader: (1)

How are you disconnecting the alternator from the loop? Is it by disconnecting the output wire (solid black cable bolted to the alternator) or is it by disconnecting the two wire plug from the back of the alternator. Try disconnecting the plug if you haven't already and see if this makes a difference. The B/W wire needs to be on top of the W/B wire in this two wire plug. If this has no change then perhaps disconnect the two wire plug from the Main relay. If this makes no difference then remove the other plug from the Main relay which has four wires.

Fupasaurous

The 2 wire plug is the one i had disconnected and this made no difference....could the plug wires being out of order to the coil packs have any adverse affects creating this issue or would the car just not run at all without them being in proper synchronization?

HAILERS2

It's usually cause by one or more connectors being connected to the wrong mating connector.

Or could be a stuck Main Relay.

Next time it runs, pull the BTN fuse in the engine bay. Or better, pull the BTN prior to starting the engine and see what happens.

And or pull the two wire connector off the Main Relay and see if the problem goes away.

Or later pull the four wire plug off the Main Relay and see how things go. No way the engine wouild run if this is done unless a massive miswire of the car has been made.

What elect work has been done just prior to this event happening. Did the car ever run normal?

Fupasaurous

Everything seemed to be operational when i looked over it before purchasing....only thing out of the ordinary was that the previous owner had installed an aftermarket ignition switch (toggle and push to start). According to him, to return to a stock turn key ignition i would just have to unplug the hacked up wiring from the harness going up to the steering column and install the new factory mazda switch. Upon doing so my starter motor some how became incapacitated and the 80A main fuse blew. I upgraded to a 100A main; replaced the starter and have sense had an issue with hazards running non stop once the battery is connected. Was having an issue with the car not wanting to start and instantly killing power the moment i would turn the key to start but suddenly it remedied itself and i have sense not been able to shut it off with out stalling it out.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Hazards would only stay on if the Light Green wire in the seven wire CPU plug was receiving a ground which could be caused either from a short to ground or the Hazard switch in the cluster is stuck in the closed/on position. The LG wire also runs to the ECU I believe and if the ground comes from that wire it would also cause the Hazards to constantly flash. You could go to the LG wire at the CPU plug and provide a voltage source to this wire and the Hazards should stop flashing. This would indicate that the ground wire (LG) is the problem. If it is the problem then you could disconnect the Hazard switch to see if this alone (no voltage provided to the LG wire) is the cause.

Your ignition switch is probably either wired wrong or it is malfunctioning.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/dead-ignition-cylinder-949333/

Fupasaurous

I know for a fact that my reverse indicator switch is completely broken off at the connector going into the tranny not sure if this could affect it

satch

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the wires are not grounding out and this specific problem should not be an issue at all.

Fupasaurous

my thoughts exactly

Fupasaurous

Would my coil packs have anything to do with this because someone told me that it was a bad ignition switch (brand new) and another said that it could be my coil packs are no good (but they send spark)

satch

iTrader: (1)

The coils only work if they have voltage as they can't produce voltage themselves so they really can't be the problem. Once the Main relay opens up the voltage to the coils,injectors ans ECU should stop as it was designed to do. Have you messed w/the Main relay as suggested? Takes all of two minutes to check.

W/the car running remove the "two wire plug" from the relay.

Fupasaurous

Removed the BTN fuse, started her up and shut her off....I REPEAT SHUT HER OFF, you guys are the shiznit.

Hailer and Satch if you guys are ever in CT i owe you a pint and a hand shake

.....but im still scratching my head why this happened because the fuse was fine, and if this happened once most likely it can and will again; as for the hazards they still do what they want but im just gonna leave the fuse out until i purchase a volt meter cause im pretty sure its just the cold solder joints in the cpu (HOPEFULLY)

satch

iTrader: (1)

That the BTN fuse being pulled solved the problem as I understand it is due to there being some voltage backfeeding through the interior fuse box which should not be happening. The BTN fuse powers the fuses in the interior fuse box which receive constant voltage from the battery.

What you might want to do is put the BTN fuse back in and measure the voltage on the B/W wire at the two wire plug w/key to off as there should not be voltage on that wire. If there is voltage present then the constant voltage fuses in the interior fuse box are backfeeding the Engine fuse in all likelihood. Since you don't have a multimeter you could check for this possibilty using a different method. It would require going to the Main relay and disconnect the two wire plug and listening for the relay to make a clicking sound. When you replug the two wire plug listen for the click as well. If it clicks then there is definitely voltage backfeeding onto the B/W wire which should not be occuring. If you do this test, remember to not use the key in the ignition and the engine off.

Fupasaurous

Sounds right because i remember when i was trying to diagnose this problem previously (had to remove battery leads to cut power and not drain battery) and would install the battery leads i would here the relay in the corner (by the brake booster and trailing coil pack) make a clicking noise.

I would also assume that resolving this problem would restore my indicator/turn signals and eliminate the hazards that are obviously trying to indicate a problem in my electrical charging/running system

RX_Speed_7

your REX is powered by satan man, don't worry about it LOL

Fupasaurous

Id say you took the words out of my mouth but Ive been beat you to it....ps that hurricane yea i made it when i back fired about a week ago