Rewiring fuel pump, Help Please
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,599
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Rewiring fuel pump, Help Please
Ok, I tracked my problems with no start to the fuel pump not kicking on. Its a fault in the + side. What in that line can go bad? Whats the routing of the wire?
More importantly where is a good place to splice in a new + wire for the fuel pump? I know it has to be fused, so could I just splice it into the EGI INJ fuse? Or is 40A too much?
I ran a wire straight from the battery to the + wire on the pump and it worked just fine, so its gotta be something between the EGI fuse and the fuel pump. And yes EGI fuse is good. Who ever canh elp me out gets all the thanks in the world, as this is the last little missing link to getting my car started.
More importantly where is a good place to splice in a new + wire for the fuel pump? I know it has to be fused, so could I just splice it into the EGI INJ fuse? Or is 40A too much?
I ran a wire straight from the battery to the + wire on the pump and it worked just fine, so its gotta be something between the EGI fuse and the fuel pump. And yes EGI fuse is good. Who ever canh elp me out gets all the thanks in the world, as this is the last little missing link to getting my car started.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,599
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Have you jumped the test connector yet?
Its a yellow 2-pin plug located by the passenger side strut tower. This bypasses the interlock that exists in the AFM and will enable you to run the pump in the key "on" position with the engine not running.
It will also enable you to start he car normally if the aforementioned interlock is malfunctioning.
It will also enable you to start he car normally if the aforementioned interlock is malfunctioning.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,599
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Originally Posted by J-Rat
Its a yellow 2-pin plug located by the passenger side strut tower. This bypasses the interlock that exists in the AFM and will enable you to run the pump in the key "on" position with the engine not running.
It will also enable you to start he car normally if the aforementioned interlock is malfunctioning.
It will also enable you to start he car normally if the aforementioned interlock is malfunctioning.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,599
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Originally Posted by J-Rat
No, its there.. All you have to do is stick some wire between the two pins... Let me find a pic..
also while on the fuel pump topic, what controls the fuel pump turning on and off. like when you turn the key to "on" it will come on until pressure builds then it will click off. is this in pump controls or something external?
Originally Posted by FCKing1995
also while on the fuel pump topic, what controls the fuel pump turning on and off. like when you turn the key to "on" it will come on until pressure builds then it will click off. is this in pump controls or something external?
Do you have an FSM handy?
The fuel pump runs only when the car is in one of the following 3 situations.
1. Starting
2. Running
3. With the test connector jumpered and the key in the On position.
1. Starting
2. Running
3. With the test connector jumpered and the key in the On position.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Originally Posted by J-Rat
When you turn the key on, it will NOT come on. Until you crank the car. Once you do this, it engages the AFM interlock that allows it to come on.
Do you have an FSM handy?
Do you have an FSM handy?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,599
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Originally Posted by J-Rat
In correct.
I found it in the fsm but it shows the pins on the main afm plug. am i looking the the right ones?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
I found 2 2 prong plugs in that area. 1 was white with 1 prong turned sideways and the other straight, the other had the plastic housing/plug removed and was just 2 wires with female connectors on it. neither of which did anything when i jumped them.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,599
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
****, n/m, got the pump working and it still wont crank. damnit, oh well. i was almost 100% sure this was the reason. now im gonna look at my injectors i guess. they are hooked up right yet i still dont smell any fuel coming from exhaust or anything. im thinking ive got fuel pressure the injectors just arent firing for whatever reason. anything control injector firing other than ecu? something i could have accidentaly left unplugged or broke the wire to?
Originally Posted by FCKing1995
yeah i have a fsm. by memory what i read said when trouble shooting the fuel pump, when you turn on the key you should get the fuel pump on for several seconds then it will turn itself off after system is primed... my haynes manual did me no good, but i havent checked the fsm yet.
Just a FYI.
James
So the fuel pump is only operating under 3 conditions, starting, running and test jumper ? So if you redid the fuel lines, you would have to crank the engine to prime the fuel system up.. Or would you be able to wire the pump to the battery and prime the system before cranking ?
Originally Posted by SomeGuy_sg
So the fuel pump is only operating under 3 conditions, starting, running and test jumper ? So if you redid the fuel lines, you would have to crank the engine to prime the fuel system up.. Or would you be able to wire the pump to the battery and prime the system before cranking ?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,599
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
I fixed my problem. it was me being in a bit of a hurry and I had the fuel lines reversed
Runs but now for some reason my brakes dont work. No fluid in the res. so now I have to bleed them and then find where I have a mystery leak that is causing all sorts of smoke. Then I should be road worthy
Runs but now for some reason my brakes dont work. No fluid in the res. so now I have to bleed them and then find where I have a mystery leak that is causing all sorts of smoke. Then I should be road worthy
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