nopistons

How much effort should it take to get it in after changing the brake pads? ? I BUSTED my chops for over half an hour turning the piston, and it was in no mood to cooperate. Finally got it in, but what a job. ('88 SE)

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

mine took some work also!

JKM

I think it all depends on the last time it was turned-when I did mine a few weeks ago, it took some effort to turn them, but it wasn't bad.

I seem to remember it being a PAIN in the *** the previous time (a little over a year ago) but those brakes had been on for years.

razorback

did you have the special tool?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

You did turn them while retracting..correct?

gambone

iTrader: (3)

you may need to move back the boot just a little and put some fuild in there to help the piston slide over the seal

scathcart

The rear piston must be rotated back into position... The haynes calls for using a pair of needle-nose pliers, but that works about as well as the Canadian Health Care program.
They sell a tool specifically for this job, should be under $10. Its a little cube with a bunch of little lumps on every corner. You attach your 3/8" drive extension to it, attach it to your ratchet, push down hard, and the little lumps fit right into the piston. Turn the racthet, the thing goes right down.
Its one of the best brake tools to buy.



here's a picture!

nopistons

Thanks for the replies, guys. I did rotate the piston, but even that was a major chore. I'm figuring there's some rust in there and that it's only a matter of time until it starts to leak. The pads wore out really fast on that wheel (< 10k miles of "normal" driving and they were down to the metal) so the caliper is probably sticking. $80 + core for a rebuilt unit at Auto Zone, so I guess that's the next step. Anyone know of a place that sells good rebuilts for less than that?