So I have been looking around trying to figure out why my gas gauge doesn't read full when full. Also, my gas light never comes on unless I'm starting the car. And up at about 7500 RPMS it starts to get stutter a little. Like it's not getting enough fuel. And as far as I know I'm running rich. I know I need to change my fuel filter (it's at LEAST 3.5 years old). So I'm looking for answers. like...

How do I fix my gauge? (Yes I checked other gauges)
How do I fix my light?
What fuel filter should I use?

I'm also thinking about taking some things back their apart and cleaning it up. I took the plate off thats on the bottem of the trunk and I noticed that it's really dirty down their. I don't know if that has something to do with it, but I'm a clean freak...

 

Your gauge is probably inaccurate because of the fuel level sender in the tank. Get a replacement from Mazda. Use any fuel filter you would like, I would suggest one that filters.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/replacement-potentiometer-fuel-level-sender-920877/

 

I lol'd at that. Cool I will call mazda tomorrow morning to find out how much they're running. Probably an arm and a leg!

 

I second that.

Also, the low gas light sensor is apparently rather sensitive and it often breaks (remotely if at any point someone put gas in the car while the sensor was on). There is a thread somewhere where a guy tracked down a replacement (from a motorcycle I believe) and documented how to replace it.

H,owever if u get a new fuel level setup it will include a new low level sensor as well.

 

$95 through Mazdatrix: http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-pump.htm, and it doesn't look like the low fuel sensor comes with it. The sensor doesn't appear in the parts fiche either; just the level sender which they call "gauge, fuel tank". Same PN in the fiche and the Mazdatrix site: FB01-60-960B. I think this is why the guy with the motorcycle sensor had to find a non-OEM replacement.

 

Well I think we can all agree that it is more important that the gas gauge works than the fuel light. So I will call the mazda dealer nearby tomorrow to see if it competes with that price. But I'm pretty sure they're about the same from what I've experiened with that site and Mazda of Everett.

Because see, the end is to fix all my fuel issues. Right now, I have excessive backfiring when I'm decelerating (foot off the gas) under 3500 RPMs.

 

In addition to this, I think my variable resistor is busted too lol. Because when I turn it, it doesn't change anything and it keeps going forever.... I don't remember it turning forever...

 

What sort of mods have you done?

 

Check out the classified section. If you can't find one for a decent price, let me know.

I have an untested one (including pump) that came with my jdm S5 engine swap.

 

If the resistor were a clock it would turn from like 8 to 4 give or take an hour on each end. Also, it should only change the idle when the engine is fully warmed up and not until then and w/the coupler jumpered of course. This is how it works on my car. There is a method for testing this item in the FSM.

Backfiring can be a function of the TPS and Anti Afterburn valve located in the ACV among other things.

 

Big K&N Intake, RB header (my exhaust is messed up, falling apart). I think those are the only things that would effect it. It was so bad at one point that I took apart the intake manifold and replaced all the gaskets and hoses...

I did, I can't find one...


Yeah I saw something last night when I was looking through my FSM... will have to look more into it. And it has the same effect warm/cold.