Replacing wheel studs, how hard is it?
08-08-13, 09:29 PM
#1
Replacing wheel studs, how hard is it?
I've got to replace some wheel studs front and.rear, how difficult is it to do and what tools are required?
I'd like to replace the studs with the best quality studs , I've already purchased one and its 10.9 grade is that standard?
I hope I can do this job myself as I don't want to pay a shop to do work that's really not that hard, but I don't mind paying to have the studs pressed in/out by bringing them to a shop.
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I'd like to replace the studs with the best quality studs , I've already purchased one and its 10.9 grade is that standard?
I hope I can do this job myself as I don't want to pay a shop to do work that's really not that hard, but I don't mind paying to have the studs pressed in/out by bringing them to a shop.
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08-08-13, 09:33 PM
#2
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The front is easy.Pop the hub and bang and replace.It just sits in there on splines in the hub.
Rear is not so easy..replace the bearing.They will not come off without doing that.
Rear is not so easy..replace the bearing.They will not come off without doing that.
08-08-13, 09:38 PM
#3
Can't I get away without replacing the bearings? If replacing them is ideal I will, I've just never done bearings and idk what tools are needed for that either.
This is the next job I need done on my car as its not too smart to drive missing some of your lugs.
Idk what the last owner did but many of the studs have messed up threads, which I've just made worse.
I was considering longer wheel studs for spacers but the price difference is so much I may just keep them stock.
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This is the next job I need done on my car as its not too smart to drive missing some of your lugs.
Idk what the last owner did but many of the studs have messed up threads, which I've just made worse.
I was considering longer wheel studs for spacers but the price difference is so much I may just keep them stock.
Rotary > Pistons
08-08-13, 09:50 PM
#4
Sadly, no.
You must remove the hub from the bearing to press out the studs and doing so will destroy the bearing.
You'll need new bearings and seals and since you'll have the triax carrier off, you might consider replacing the DTSS bushings at the same time.
You must remove the hub from the bearing to press out the studs and doing so will destroy the bearing.
You'll need new bearings and seals and since you'll have the triax carrier off, you might consider replacing the DTSS bushings at the same time.
08-08-13, 09:55 PM
#5
Man seems like I'll need a shop to get alot of this stuff pressed out etc.
Should I be able to get it all off and have the stuff all pressed out/in at the shop?
I remember the dtss eliminators were a pain for the last guy that put them in for me at a shop,
mostly due to the removal of the old bushings.
more and more I wish I had better tools
guess this job is gonna cost more than I expected , but at least ill get dtss Eliminators out of it.
A few people told me u can replace the studs without taking off the hub but I'm guessing you'll be using a hammer to smash out the old studs.
idk what ill do , I just need to get it done is all I know
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Should I be able to get it all off and have the stuff all pressed out/in at the shop?
I remember the dtss eliminators were a pain for the last guy that put them in for me at a shop,
mostly due to the removal of the old bushings.
more and more I wish I had better tools
guess this job is gonna cost more than I expected , but at least ill get dtss Eliminators out of it.
A few people told me u can replace the studs without taking off the hub but I'm guessing you'll be using a hammer to smash out the old studs.
idk what ill do , I just need to get it done is all I know
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08-08-13, 11:13 PM
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just a "heads up" on the rear assembly.
There is a little sleeve bushing in the Top of the Spindle assembly that compresses to take up the slack when you tighten the 17mm bolt and nut down.
If you look at the EARS of the Air pump you will see the same thing..that little inner metal Tube like thing that moves when you tighten the bolt.
You need to move that little sleeve back enough to allow you to take the spindle assembly Off and put it back on.
..Trust me,without knowing that little tidbit of info,it is Frustrating!
There is a little sleeve bushing in the Top of the Spindle assembly that compresses to take up the slack when you tighten the 17mm bolt and nut down.
If you look at the EARS of the Air pump you will see the same thing..that little inner metal Tube like thing that moves when you tighten the bolt.
You need to move that little sleeve back enough to allow you to take the spindle assembly Off and put it back on.
..Trust me,without knowing that little tidbit of info,it is Frustrating!
08-09-13, 12:08 AM
#9
just a "heads up" on the rear assembly.
There is a little sleeve bushing in the Top of the Spindle assembly that compresses to take up the slack when you tighten the 17mm bolt and nut down.
If you look at the EARS of the Air pump you will see the same thing..that little inner metal Tube like thing that moves when you tighten the bolt.
You need to move that little sleeve back enough to allow you to take the spindle assembly Off and put it back on.
..Trust me,without knowing that little tidbit of info,it is Frustrating!
There is a little sleeve bushing in the Top of the Spindle assembly that compresses to take up the slack when you tighten the 17mm bolt and nut down.
If you look at the EARS of the Air pump you will see the same thing..that little inner metal Tube like thing that moves when you tighten the bolt.
You need to move that little sleeve back enough to allow you to take the spindle assembly Off and put it back on.
..Trust me,without knowing that little tidbit of info,it is Frustrating!
Rotary > Pistons
08-09-13, 05:14 AM
#11
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You don't need to pull the hub off if you're putting in stock length replacements.
Just heat up whichever one you want to take out and beat it out with a 5lb sledge. Stick the new one on and pull it in by tightening a lug nut down on it. If you're putting longer studs in you have to do what they said.
Just heat up whichever one you want to take out and beat it out with a 5lb sledge. Stick the new one on and pull it in by tightening a lug nut down on it. If you're putting longer studs in you have to do what they said.
08-09-13, 09:08 AM
#12
So I should be able to do all this without a press then on the back, the front using the press is optional iirc.
Probably just need some washers on the stud to get it to.pull through.
I just need to figure out where I'll buy all these studs.
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Probably just need some washers on the stud to get it to.pull through.
I just need to figure out where I'll buy all these studs.
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08-09-13, 11:02 AM
#13
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just did mine front and rear about a month ago. front is straightforward no press needed for anything just beat out the old studs with a hammer(replace bearings if needed not required). The rears as said will need a new wheel bearing(a lot more expensive then I thought), they have to be pressed out/in but nothing else is. I did this while replacing all my bushings and put por-15 on the suspension bits, the bearing removal/install did not take to much time. It honestly made me hate the fc's rear suspension set up LOL
edit: I would recommend getting arp studs if you ever expect to run bigger rims and tires ever. the cost of replacing the bearings in the back 2 times is a lot more then the added cost to the studs.
the press charge at a shop should not be to much. I had a shop press out 6 bushings I could not get to with my harbor freight press, was 140$
TIP: if you do not want to bang up your rotors trying to remove them hit your old studs with a hammer since they are coming out anyway, worked really well for me
edit: I would recommend getting arp studs if you ever expect to run bigger rims and tires ever. the cost of replacing the bearings in the back 2 times is a lot more then the added cost to the studs.
the press charge at a shop should not be to much. I had a shop press out 6 bushings I could not get to with my harbor freight press, was 140$
TIP: if you do not want to bang up your rotors trying to remove them hit your old studs with a hammer since they are coming out anyway, worked really well for me
08-09-13, 11:24 AM
#14
I was lucky. I managed to change out a broken wheel stud, bearings and bushings in the rear with the sketchy Harbor Frieght press. Having the right assortment of sockets, pipe or a proper bearing cup set is a life saver. For the DTSS bushing, a $4 kitchen sink pipe with a flange worked perfectly to capture the spent bushing.
08-09-13, 01:49 PM
#15
just did mine front and rear about a month ago. front is straightforward no press needed for anything just beat out the old studs with a hammer(replace bearings if needed not required). The rears as said will need a new wheel bearing(a lot more expensive then I thought), they have to be pressed out/in but nothing else is. I did this while replacing all my bushings and put por-15 on the suspension bits, the bearing removal/install did not take to much time. It honestly made me hate the fc's rear suspension set up LOL
edit: I would recommend getting arp studs if you ever expect to run bigger rims and tires ever. the cost of replacing the bearings in the back 2 times is a lot more then the added cost to the studs.
the press charge at a shop should not be to much. I had a shop press out 6 bushings I could not get to with my harbor freight press, was 140$
TIP: if you do not want to bang up your rotors trying to remove them hit your old studs with a hammer since they are coming out anyway, worked really well for me
edit: I would recommend getting arp studs if you ever expect to run bigger rims and tires ever. the cost of replacing the bearings in the back 2 times is a lot more then the added cost to the studs.
the press charge at a shop should not be to much. I had a shop press out 6 bushings I could not get to with my harbor freight press, was 140$
TIP: if you do not want to bang up your rotors trying to remove them hit your old studs with a hammer since they are coming out anyway, worked really well for me
I didn't choose the front tires
I'm hoping to do most of this work myself in the driveway.
I'm likely going to use stock studs just so I can get the job done if its easier that way, Ive had 8mm spacers on but the lugs didn't thread on very much
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08-09-13, 02:44 PM
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I swear, if you're putting in stock length wheel studs, you DO NOT need to take off the rear hub and change the bearing. Just pull the brake rotor and beat them out. There is just enough room to wiggle it out and wiggle the new one in.......
08-09-13, 03:04 PM
#17
Thanks for your input on all this , we'll see how it goes.
I just need to sell some parts so I can get some money for this job, apparently polished stock sawblades aren't that popular lol.
08-09-13, 03:54 PM
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you may be able to get stock ones back in without it...but that's gunna be close as hell. if you do get them back in pop a top off a stock lug and impact it down to pull them in, the tops are a super cheap thin metal so they come off easy I used my stock lugs to set my brake rotors like this. I have 16x8 wheels 245 50 tires with +22 offset and there is no way stock lugs would have been even close, you may be ok but it would be unsettling in my mind, there is no way you will have a decent amount of thread into your lugs.
08-09-13, 03:57 PM
#19
you may be able to get stock ones back in without it...but that's gunna be close as hell. if you do get them back in pop a top off a stock lug and impact it down to pull them in, the tops are a super cheap thin metal so they come off easy I used my stock lugs to set my brake rotors like this. I have 16x8 wheels 245 50 tires with +22 offset and there is no way stock lugs would have been even close, you may be ok but it would be unsettling in my mind, there is no way you will have a decent amount of thread into your lugs.
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08-09-13, 04:39 PM
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you may be able to get stock ones back in without it...but that's gunna be close as hell. if you do get them back in pop a top off a stock lug and impact it down to pull them in, the tops are a super cheap thin metal so they come off easy I used my stock lugs to set my brake rotors like this. I have 16x8 wheels 245 50 tires with +22 offset and there is no way stock lugs would have been even close, you may be ok but it would be unsettling in my mind, there is no way you will have a decent amount of thread into your lugs.
08-09-13, 09:25 PM
#22
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Sarcasm, you don't get it.
I'm not wrong, I've done it myself....... You don't need to remove the rear hubs. It's the shade-tree way.
08-12-13, 09:45 AM
#23
I have a good question/concern.
When taking/banging out the studs on the rear while leaving the hub on will I have to worry about them damaging/hitting something behind them? (axle boots, etc)
A secondary option I've thought of is possibly cutting off their ends and drilling them out, but I'm sure they'll come out faster by banging.them out.
Rotary > Pistons
When taking/banging out the studs on the rear while leaving the hub on will I have to worry about them damaging/hitting something behind them? (axle boots, etc)
A secondary option I've thought of is possibly cutting off their ends and drilling them out, but I'm sure they'll come out faster by banging.them out.
Rotary > Pistons
08-12-13, 10:05 AM
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I have a good question/concern.
When taking/banging out the studs on the rear while leaving the hub on will I have to worry about them damaging/hitting something behind them? (axle boots, etc)
A secondary option I've thought of is possibly cutting off their ends and drilling them out, but I'm sure they'll come out faster by banging.them out.
Rotary > Pistons
When taking/banging out the studs on the rear while leaving the hub on will I have to worry about them damaging/hitting something behind them? (axle boots, etc)
A secondary option I've thought of is possibly cutting off their ends and drilling them out, but I'm sure they'll come out faster by banging.them out.
Rotary > Pistons