Replacing water pump.
#1
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Replacing water pump.
ok, this is my first time working on this type of car. i got the 1986 version non turbo. and i was told it was leaking water from the water pump, i was constantly putting in water. so i have the engine all ripped apart, with the water pump off. is it really necessary to spend $40 for a water pump? like how can u tell if its bad? wouldnt it just be bad gaskets? my dad says that if ur gonna replace the gaskets you mise well replace the pump.
another question, how does the collant overflow jug thing work? like shuldnt there be a return line? or does it poor it in from the top and also suck it back out from the top?
another question, how does the collant overflow jug thing work? like shuldnt there be a return line? or does it poor it in from the top and also suck it back out from the top?
#2
Rotaries confuse me
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Originally Posted by 383_Rx7
ok, this is my first time working on this type of car. i got the 1986 version non turbo. and i was told it was leaking water from the water pump, i was constantly putting in water. so i have the engine all ripped apart, with the water pump off. is it really necessary to spend $40 for a water pump? like how can u tell if its bad? wouldnt it just be bad gaskets? my dad says that if ur gonna replace the gaskets you mise well replace the pump.
Originally Posted by 383_Rx7
another question, how does the collant overflow jug thing work? like shuldnt there be a return line? or does it poor it in from the top and also suck it back out from the top?
#4
i read the W.P thread in the archive .but quick question
i think im having the same issue. Can someone please tell me if there are 2 or 3 gaskets for the water pump and where can i find these gaskets
#5
Rotaries confuse me
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Mazdatrix is a good place to find what's needed for your car.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/b9wpumps.htm
It shows 2 different gaskets needed. I'd also get the gasket that goes by your thermostat, and maybe a new thermostat depending on how old yours is.
As for getting them, I'd go to Mazda.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/b9wpumps.htm
It shows 2 different gaskets needed. I'd also get the gasket that goes by your thermostat, and maybe a new thermostat depending on how old yours is.
As for getting them, I'd go to Mazda.
#6
Jesus is the Messiah
When a waterpump goes bad, it will leak your water through the "weep hole" in the bottom. You can tell it is the waterpump if you see the biuldup on the waterpump itself.
Those gaskets usually dont go bad, in my experience. It's usually the pump.
Those gaskets usually dont go bad, in my experience. It's usually the pump.
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ok im still lost on the coolant return line thing? the guy i got the car off of, had a litlle jug bottle that the overflow would poor into, and eventually you have to empty the jug. isnt there suppose to be a container with an opening on the top and bottom so it can cycle through the system? i see one container that sits on the drivers side, but it only has an opening on the top and it has this like straw type thing that goes inside the container...?
when I was takeing the pump off, there was a lot of gross build up under it, and you can see a dark spot on the engine block, like it was leaking there maybe.
when I was takeing the pump off, there was a lot of gross build up under it, and you can see a dark spot on the engine block, like it was leaking there maybe.
#11
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So do you actually see coolant coming from the water pump, or is the coolant just magically disappearing? If its just disappearing and you can't see any leaks, then you might have bad coolant seals. That could also explain why the coolant isn't going back out of the overglow bottle.
#12
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Originally Posted by 383_Rx7
ok im still lost on the coolant return line thing? the guy i got the car off of, had a litlle jug bottle that the overflow would poor into, and eventually you have to empty the jug. isnt there suppose to be a container with an opening on the top and bottom so it can cycle through the system? i see one container that sits on the drivers side, but it only has an opening on the top and it has this like straw type thing that goes inside the container...?
when I was takeing the pump off, there was a lot of gross build up under it, and you can see a dark spot on the engine block, like it was leaking there maybe.
when I was takeing the pump off, there was a lot of gross build up under it, and you can see a dark spot on the engine block, like it was leaking there maybe.
Did you pull the aluminum housing off too? or just the steel pump itself? If you removed the aluminum housing you need to be sure to put the small spacers back on to the two studs they came off of (goes between the water pump housing and the front of the engine) if you dont put them back you can crack the aluminum pump housing when you torque everything down.
Seriously REPLACE THE PUMP! If the $40 for the water pump is too much for you then you NEED to sell this car. Parts are not cheap and something ALWAYS breaks. Not a cheap daily driver by any means. Maintenance and repair on this car is expensive. The most important system to maintain on these cars is the cooling system, they run hotter than most engines and that means more heat to remove and less room for error.
#14
Engine, Not Motor
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There are two spacers behind the water pump housing that are on the upper left studs. Basically they compensate for the thickness of the gasket. Often they "become one" with the engine due to rust. Without them, the housing sits unevenly and will likely leak eventually.
#15
I am the stig.
Slightly old thread, but a quick question.
In the event that you need to replace the water pump, are the Kragen / Autozone pumps worth anything, or do you need to go OEM? It's not that I can't spring for the OEM, but it's a 3x price difference.
From Rock Auto....
Is there a brand there that'll work out? Same question for gaskets. (RTV work?)
In the event that you need to replace the water pump, are the Kragen / Autozone pumps worth anything, or do you need to go OEM? It's not that I can't spring for the OEM, but it's a 3x price difference.
From Rock Auto....
A-1 CARDONE Part # 571208 {[Water Pump] Reman.} More Info
$33.79 $0.00 $33.79
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1312028
Water Pump, New, 1 Per Car More Info
$58.89 $0.00 $58.89
ACDELCO Part # 252152 {#12493901}
PUMP KIT,WAT
**Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 12 business days** More Info
$51.99 $0.00 $51.99
BOSCH Part # 97077
**Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 7 business days** More Info
$54.79 $0.00 $54.79
CARDONE SELECT Part # 5571112
**Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days** More Info
$54.99 $0.00 $54.99
$33.79 $0.00 $33.79
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1312028
Water Pump, New, 1 Per Car More Info
$58.89 $0.00 $58.89
ACDELCO Part # 252152 {#12493901}
PUMP KIT,WAT
**Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 12 business days** More Info
$51.99 $0.00 $51.99
BOSCH Part # 97077
**Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 7 business days** More Info
$54.79 $0.00 $54.79
CARDONE SELECT Part # 5571112
**Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days** More Info
$54.99 $0.00 $54.99
#16
prodigy racing
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hay guy's im having problems taking off my water pump.the water pump pully keeps getting stuck on the main crank every thing is loose but it still do's not wont to come off.
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2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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08-31-15 07:49 PM