Alrighty, so, mine has died. Searching showed that you can simply replace the worn-out buzzer with another 12v one from Radio Shack. I don't want to hear about how it's better that it's gone...I really don't. It's not just to tell you you're about to over rev...It also lets you know if you've experienced some sort of massive, catastrophic oil or coolant loss.

However.. My experience with soldering is uh...well you probably know.. And knowledge of electrical systems? Very minimal...

OBVIOUSLY, I can tell the difference between the buzzer's positive and negative terminals, but there are four pins on the damned thing. This has me in a bit of a pickle, because all the buzzers I found at Radio Shack only have positive and negative connections.

Someone let me know how to do this and what I need.

 

just unsolder them all. two just holds it to the board i cant remember which two are the ones to hook it too but its pretty self explanatory after u get the old one off.

 

What a bunch Of Pooey..telling someone to unhook Warning indicators,..Crap,why not just unhook the Oil and Temp too while your at it?.the buzzer can be adjusted to go off Later then what it was set for.but Taking it off all together,NO..Bad thing to do.I suggest some reading through the Forum before you GO doing Stuff like this..Or just go and call Dan Atkins..he may have an Opening for an Engine rebuild.

 

^^ Dude-- Reading comprehension>you.

Re-read the post CAREFULLY. The above poster is telling the OP how to get the OLD buzzer off so he can then replace it.

 

He was telling me how I can REPLACE the buzzer, because Piezzo buzzers are two pin, but the stock one is four. He pointed out to me that aside from the positive and negative ones, the other two are just there to hold it on.

Anyone who wants to remove the Over-Rev is a bit of a piddington.

And if they REALLY don't want the buzzer to tell them they're about to stray into the redline, then they should probably eliminate the buzzer and wire up an L.E.D. or two or three into their instrument cluster to tell them the oil and/or coolant has magically disappeared. :-P

Would anyone care to second that two of the pins for the buzzer are just for structural integrity?

 

yea i was telling how to take the old one off as i replaced mine not too long ago with one from radioshack.

 

Which buzzer did you use? there's many...I want one pretty damn loud...maybe higher pitched, more like the RX-8 over-rev..

 

im not sure the model number but its not loud enough for me so im gonna try and find another. I did find out u can hook them too a 9 volt battery to see what they sound like.

 

I think IceMark had said you need one that's at least 70db...but I'm thinking 100db since my exhaust is so friggin' loud.

 

haha nice

 

Do you happen to know if having a bad buzzer also stops the coolant idiot light from illuminating? My redline buzzer does not come on (used to come on sometimes at the wrong RPM) and my coolant warning does not illuminate.

 

No. Having a bad/missing Over-Rev buzzer will NOT affect your idiot lights coming on. The buzzer is the audible warning. The visual warning is the idiot light.

If your idiot lights are acting up, you probably have broken solder joints. If they do not self check and/or your horn and door ajar beeper do not work, then your CPU could also possibly be at fault.

 

Thanks, I'm having a hell of a time tracing it down. Idiot cluster has been re-soldered and the lights work well. CPU is questionable at best. Swapped another cluster and a still no buzzer. The electrical system on this car has steadily been kicking my ***.

 

How do you know that the new cluster's buzzer isn't worn out as well? You could always test the buzzer itself, I suppose, but don't take my word for it. Adding power directly from a 9volt battery while the buzzer is still on the cluster's PCB...

 

I bought a 12v DC Piezo buzzer from Radioshack today, a 15 watt grounded soldering iron with fine tip and some .050 diameter solder. I've got the cluster out in front of me.

I'm going to try and de-solder the old buzzer. Two of the joints are marked clearly as positive and negative. The other two are not marked...

Any tips appreciated..

 

Use a solder sucker or wick.

I just tested one the other night. The other two pins are useless as people said. If you look at the PCB, those connections don't lead anywhere.

BTW, my buzzer works now. Turns out the car has to be running to test the coolant buzzer.

 

Yeah, I just de-soldered the old buzzer. Took me about ten minutes but I wanted to be very careful... Used an ear sucker bulb thing (The kind you use for babies) Works very well.

So I'm going to solder the new buzzer in...after I test the old one. Now to find an old A/C > DC 12v controlled...I'm sure I still have a few.

I'll update y'all as I go.

 

Right, so..

The new buzzer works. It's a little more quiet than I would've expected, but that's probably because my exhaust is so loud. The tone is nice though, more like the RX-8's buzzer. 273-059 is the part number from RadioShack for this buzzer.

-Excited-

Thanks for everyone's help!

 

You're welcome
We should do my car when I get there. I think that that buzzer in particular would work fine for me since I dont have that god awful exhaust and that new trannys going in soon. (Thanks for that too, btw )

 

Kool glad you got it working im gonna try the model u purchased in mine, or maybe find a louder one somewhere.

 

It depends on your exhaust. It's not terribly loud, but it's not quiet enough to worry me. Even over my uber obnoxious exhaust leak cat-less exhaust I can hear it at W.O.T.

It's pretty dandy. You could always get a 6volt or a multi-volt buzzer and then tack on some LEDs until you reach 12volts.... Then you'll have audible and visual warnings.

But I prefer just the buzzer itself.

 

Yea i want just the buzzer myself, i just wish mine was as loud as my old fb's was