Replacing clutch: Machine flywheel or NO?
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Replacing clutch: Machine flywheel or NO?
I'm replacing my clutch while my engine is out with a 6 puck with extreme pressure plate. My clutch isn't bad, in fact it's quite strong and has lots of friction materal left (at least as much as the 6 puck I bought from Kevin, said it has 10k miles on it) so I'll keep it around as a backup, or maybe I'll sell it depending on how I feel once the 6 puck is in.
Anyway, I've heard two sides... if you machine it, it throws a balancing that was done at the factory to the engine and can result in major vibration problems or just little drivetrain problems constantly messing up your drivetrain parts.
Other side, don't machine it and the clutch wear will be highly increased until it wears in.
But at the same time I'm thinking this flywheel might have been machined by a previous owner in a previous clutch change (seeing as it has 158k miles and looks like a pretty new clutch...) since your generic mechanic would of course machine the flywheel.
Input?
--Gary
Anyway, I've heard two sides... if you machine it, it throws a balancing that was done at the factory to the engine and can result in major vibration problems or just little drivetrain problems constantly messing up your drivetrain parts.
Other side, don't machine it and the clutch wear will be highly increased until it wears in.
But at the same time I'm thinking this flywheel might have been machined by a previous owner in a previous clutch change (seeing as it has 158k miles and looks like a pretty new clutch...) since your generic mechanic would of course machine the flywheel.
Input?
--Gary
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Originally Posted by RexRyder
**** yea you have to machine it, it says so somewhere in the manual. if your too cheap, atleast get some sand paper and sand the bitch smooth
Nah I'm not cheap... but I have read that someone machining it will lose the original balance like I said... which could cause a lot more problems.
--Gary
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Originally Posted by Bob_The_Normal
lol I think that'd be worse man... what are the chances I could sand it flat?! ;D hahaha
Nah I'm not cheap... but I have read that someone machining it will lose the original balance like I said... which could cause a lot more problems.
--Gary
Nah I'm not cheap... but I have read that someone machining it will lose the original balance like I said... which could cause a lot more problems.
--Gary
Whoever told you that is on some good ****.
Flywheel ALWAYS need to be resurfaced whenever a new clutch is installed to flatten any warps if any and remove hotspots. If you install a clutch without resurfacing, your clutch is not going to last too long. Resurfacing removes maybe ounces of material. When you go with a lightened flywheel, THEN you need a matching counter weight.
#6
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I wouldn't say you NEED to do it. I would go on whether it looks like it needs it. If the surface is pitted, scarred, scrapped, burned... etc... then I wouldn't if it was me (and I didn't).
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Resurfacing is what...$25 and 15 minutes? What is it going to hurt? I hate doing clutch jobs and I want mine to last as long as possible. Sanding will only remove hot spots and not warp if there are any and you cannot see it with a naked eye. You can use a feeler gauge and straight edge if you want to be sure.
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Well, I found Bob's link rather interesting.
If the "imbalance" is so important that the author recommends not to resurface the flywheel, then how can he recommend a lightweight flywheel with an "automatic transmission" counterweight be used?
Doesnt make sense to me.
Only the flat surface is machined; that is the weight removed is symetrical, and can in no way effect the balance, which is the unsymetrical "blob" on the engine side.
I resurfaced mine (only a few thou. is required...8 I think) and had no problems. The FSM actually shows a used flywheel being sanded to create a swirl pattern. I think this is to help "wear in" the clutch surfaces in the critical first 1000kM's.
Hope this helps,
Dave
If the "imbalance" is so important that the author recommends not to resurface the flywheel, then how can he recommend a lightweight flywheel with an "automatic transmission" counterweight be used?
Doesnt make sense to me.
Only the flat surface is machined; that is the weight removed is symetrical, and can in no way effect the balance, which is the unsymetrical "blob" on the engine side.
I resurfaced mine (only a few thou. is required...8 I think) and had no problems. The FSM actually shows a used flywheel being sanded to create a swirl pattern. I think this is to help "wear in" the clutch surfaces in the critical first 1000kM's.
Hope this helps,
Dave
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That so stupid! If you take of the same amount of weight all the way around how the hell can it upset the counter weight imbalance. That was the biggest pile of crap I've ever read. I had them shave mine to the minimum clearance according to the FSM and its still perfectly smooth when it revs.
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Originally Posted by RexRyder
well man, things are not what they appear, see if u get it machined maybe they can find some cracks and/or pitting, holes, scars, etc. that the clutch dust might have covered up. its only like 20 something bucks man
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definetly get it machined. if you don't, chances are it will slip when you put it back in, and wear very quickly. it will not mess up its balance. and if they **** it up they owe you a new flywheel.
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