2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

removing top bellhousing bolt...how?

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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:48 PM
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From: the dalles
removing top bellhousing bolt...how?

ive got my motor ready to pull out but i cant seem to get hte top bolt on the bellhousing out for the live of me. anyone have any tips?
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:51 PM
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From: gilbert, arizona
it not hard at all on an FC any 14mm box end wrench or shallow socket should work. Also, the very top "bolt" isnt a bolt at all, its a stud and a nut. It acts as a guide when the trans is installed.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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From: Dot Island
Originally Posted by staticguitar313
it not hard at all on an FC any 14mm box end wrench or shallow socket should work. Also, the very top "bolt" isnt a bolt at all, its a stud and a nut. It acts as a guide when the trans is installed.
word, easy as cake
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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From: the dalles
oh really? that not really the problem. its more like how do you break it loose? its quite a tight fit. and a 14 mm end wrench isnt really breaking it
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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use a pipe on the wrench
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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Hook a 13's box end on the 14s open end to give yourself more leverage.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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how come all my bolts were 15mm.. i put the bitch on the lift and used a universal joint

you need 15 mm socket a 17mm socket a long *** extension

i recommend you take off the first 3 bolts uptop
and then the last to on the bottom and then the trans member that way the trans doesnt angle down on the bolts and housing..
also if the trans doesnt wanna come out. then you need a pry bar.. theres spacees on the motor to use the pry bar.
-buddah
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 12:45 PM
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From: Springtuckey
I had the same problem with this stud/nut combo. Buddy of mine kicked down a RB engine brace, tried to slap it in last sunday. Had the hood off, PB blasted/soaked the hell outta the stud, and then even with a 3ft cheater bar we couldn't get this thing to move. I'm gunna weld a piece of scarp steel to it this weekend and give it hell, replace with a new nut.
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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I had issues with this "studd" as well, spent a whole day with no problems at all (in 102 degree weather mind you) got to that ***** of a bolt and all hell broke loose..... I wound up breaking the damn thing off.....as it turns out I was turning it the wrong way the whole time!!!
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 11:49 PM
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Man I love impact guns.

oh and my s4 t2 originally had a stud and nut at the top, but the s5 jdm motor just used a bolt? worked fine though.

oh yea, and always remember...
lefty loosey, right tighty.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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From: cold
Originally Posted by no_luck
how come all my bolts were 15mm.. i put the bitch on the lift and used a universal joint

you need 15 mm socket a 17mm socket a long *** extension

i recommend you take off the first 3 bolts uptop
and then the last to on the bottom and then the trans member that way the trans doesnt angle down on the bolts and housing..
also if the trans doesnt wanna come out. then you need a pry bar.. theres spacees on the motor to use the pry bar.
-buddah
somebody changed out your bolts. they are 14mm from the factory.
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Old Mar 19, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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^ They probably did it just to **** you off as well.
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