removing top bellhousing bolt...how?
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: the dalles
removing top bellhousing bolt...how?
ive got my motor ready to pull out but i cant seem to get hte top bolt on the bellhousing out for the live of me. anyone have any tips?
it not hard at all on an FC any 14mm box end wrench or shallow socket should work. Also, the very top "bolt" isnt a bolt at all, its a stud and a nut. It acts as a guide when the trans is installed.
how come all my bolts were 15mm.. i put the bitch on the lift and used a universal joint
you need 15 mm socket a 17mm socket a long *** extension
i recommend you take off the first 3 bolts uptop
and then the last to on the bottom and then the trans member that way the trans doesnt angle down on the bolts and housing..
also if the trans doesnt wanna come out. then you need a pry bar.. theres spacees on the motor to use the pry bar.
-buddah
you need 15 mm socket a 17mm socket a long *** extension
i recommend you take off the first 3 bolts uptop
and then the last to on the bottom and then the trans member that way the trans doesnt angle down on the bolts and housing..
also if the trans doesnt wanna come out. then you need a pry bar.. theres spacees on the motor to use the pry bar.
-buddah
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I had the same problem with this stud/nut combo. Buddy of mine kicked down a RB engine brace, tried to slap it in last sunday. Had the hood off, PB blasted/soaked the hell outta the stud, and then even with a 3ft cheater bar we couldn't get this thing to move. I'm gunna weld a piece of scarp steel to it this weekend and give it hell, replace with a new nut.
I had issues with this "studd" as well, spent a whole day with no problems at all (in 102 degree weather mind you) got to that ***** of a bolt and all hell broke loose..... I wound up breaking the damn thing off.....as it turns out I was turning it the wrong way the whole time!!!
Man I love impact guns.
oh and my s4 t2 originally had a stud and nut at the top, but the s5 jdm motor just used a bolt? worked fine though.
oh yea, and always remember...
lefty loosey, right tighty.
oh and my s4 t2 originally had a stud and nut at the top, but the s5 jdm motor just used a bolt? worked fine though.
oh yea, and always remember...
lefty loosey, right tighty.
how come all my bolts were 15mm.. i put the bitch on the lift and used a universal joint
you need 15 mm socket a 17mm socket a long *** extension
i recommend you take off the first 3 bolts uptop
and then the last to on the bottom and then the trans member that way the trans doesnt angle down on the bolts and housing..
also if the trans doesnt wanna come out. then you need a pry bar.. theres spacees on the motor to use the pry bar.
-buddah
you need 15 mm socket a 17mm socket a long *** extension
i recommend you take off the first 3 bolts uptop
and then the last to on the bottom and then the trans member that way the trans doesnt angle down on the bolts and housing..
also if the trans doesnt wanna come out. then you need a pry bar.. theres spacees on the motor to use the pry bar.
-buddah
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