BlaCkPlaGUE

I'm getting ready to pull my engine, Im pulling it so that I can get things done properly.

I have it pretty much stripped down to shortblock, just need to remove the coolant pump housing, alt, and radiator and finally the hood on the car.
I've read rotaryresurrections guide, its pretty vague though. I havent looked carefully, but are the engine mount bolts that attach the mount to the chasis hard to remove?
I got the car jacked up so I can loosen the tranny, wich I want to pull out with the engine, and I noticed that there was like a plate with one particularily big bolt holding it in the middle. Is it just the one bolt that holds the tranny to the trannymount+frame?

Any little tips you guys can give to make this as easy as possible, would be great.

thx


Im going outside now to see what I can get myself into

jdmsuper7

iTrader: (1)

These are a piece of cake to get at if everything is removed. Its just a single 12mm (iirc) on either side.

When I pulled the tranny with the engine, I removed the four bolts on the crossmember and took the crossmember out with the transmission. I'm sure that it would work just as well if not better if you take it off.

Hope that helps a little.

BlaCkPlaGUE

Yes it does, thank you.

keep em coming

dr.jones63

I used the rotary resurection guide and it worked fine.

There are 2 hoist connections on a T2, yours may be similar. One on the firewall side of the UIM and one one the drivers side TMIC bracket.

13angryB's

iTrader: (5)

More tips,..

I just pulled the engine & transmission out of my GTU by myself, with the hood still on,.. no
problem.

It probably would have been easier for you to strip it to a shortblock with the motor out of the car.

Also, drop a plastic sheet under the car to catch spills, so you don't **** off your landlord.
and some kind of padding over the front area where your radiator was.. I used the felt from the spare tire area.

BlaCkPlaGUE

Its already at shortblock.

This is seriously alot of work.
I think the hardest part about this are two things

-Lots of sensor connections on tranny area and near the oil pan, drivers side, to remember
-You need to remove the exhaust if your going to pull the engine out with the tranny, to get at the bolts on the driveshaft!

There seems to be some kind of protective plate covering most of the driveshaft as well, maybe a heat shield of some sort so the exhaust doesn't **** up your interior carpet glue and stuff?

I remember where most of the connections go and **** becuase I've worked on my car a hella lotta times, but there are a few that are gonna confuse me when it goes back in.

I also can find no place to put the hoist, there are no hoist connections like dr jones mentioned... not sure how im gonna deal with that actually..

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I personally find it a pain in the butt to remove the engine with the transmission, or remove the engine and leave the transmission in the car.

I prefer to remove the tranny first (after all, you ARE replacing the input and output seal, right? RIGHT?) by removing the slave cylinder, disconnecting the wiring, removing the shifter, removing the starter and taking out the bellhousing bolts, and then removing the 4 bolts from the tranny mount (not the one in the center). The tranny then just slides right out.

After that, two bolts (easy to get too, but support the engine first!) and the engine is free.

Edit... I also find it a LOT easier to line the transmission up to the engine, instead of the other way around. The tranny weighs less then 100 LBs, while the engine requires a hoist to position.

Edit again...You seem to be missing your lift brackets. Some builders leave them off (I don't know why). You can use one of the long water pump studs, and place a strong bolt in one of the bellhousing holes.

BlaCkPlaGUE

You say that the tranny slides out, I don't see how this is possible with the engine still in the car. The bellhousing will never fit over the crossmember that supports the tranny. Can you remove the crossmember or something? then the tranny slides away from the engine towards the rear?

Should I remove the driveshaft if I want to do this?

I like your idea aaron, gonna try it if you get back to me on the above questions.


Finally, im getting worried for my friggen life under that car! christ, I got the two jackstands supporting the front of the vehicle, but I feel that if I jack it up any higher, that im going to seriously have it teeter over, and kill me under there!
I seriously do not want to die, I have a girlfriend, and so much to live for lol.

Should I buy jackstands for the rear of the car as well? would that be easiest to get the tranny out?

thanks guys, this is great all the info your passing up.

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Two jackstands in the front with some thing to block each rear wheel should be sufficent. It doesn't hurt to put some extra cinder blocks or something else under the car for added safety and piece of mind. I also think its way easier to remove the engine and tranny seperately.

Edit: I don't think the driveshaft has to come out if you take the engine out first and put a floor jack under the tranny with pieces of wood between the jack and tranny, and wheel it forward.

BlaCkPlaGUE

last thing, i forgot to ask.
When the tranny is disconnected, as in the bellhousing is unbolted, the crossmember is removed (if possible), and you pull it away from the block and take it out, will the engine mounts hold up? lol, they will be the only thing holding the engine, and two 12mm little bolts with a stud, I would think would either bend or snap off once that tranny comes out??

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The transmission crossmember comes out with 4 bolts, and then the transmission slides out towards the rear of the car. Of course, you need to remove the driveshaft first (should have mentioned that).

I prefer ramps. But you should NEVER use a jack to support a car if you are under it. Use jackstands or ramps.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm an idiot...I'm used to working with cars that have FMICs, in which case the plumbing supports the engine with the transmission out. You definitly want to support the engine if you remove the transmission, otherwise it WILL flop around.

BlaCkPlaGUE

Thats what I thought. Good thing im finding these things out before I get in there and **** something up.
Not sure how I'll support the engine, but I will figure something out. Most likely, the best idea is to use the hoist to support the engine, maybe lift the engine like as little as possible, just so that the hoist is holding it, not the mounts, and then slide the tranny off.

thanks for all your help. I think im ready to go. btw, I am using jackstands, I just wasn't sure how safe it all was.

thx

Oh yea, how much and where can I get the stock motor mounts? Never did come across a place.

buttsjim

Couple of other precautions:

If you leave the oil cooler in, you may want to protect it with a piece of masonite, or something. Likewise, it's a good idea to protect the heater hose fittings on the firewall. Especially when it's time to put the motor back in.

HAILERS

Mazdatrix sells motor mounts.

If you've removed the upper intake manifold like I think you have, along with the harness on the engine....why not just remove the engine and leave the transmission in??? There's nothing but advantages. No removal of the exaust to get at the driveshft bolt. No removal of the driveshaft or transmission. No removal of the shifter inside the car.

Do yourself a favor. Remove the hood. It's only four bolts and a one man lift off. It makes it easier to access the parts being removed/re-installed.

You do have to support the transmission when removing the engine or it'll fall on the ground. If you have to move the car after the engine removal, then attach a rope to top of the transmission and tie it to a piece of wood laid across the fender area. Then remove the transmission support/stand/jack/whatever.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

It is kinda a pain in the neck to remember where all the connections by the tranny went after having the motor out for a long time... I wish I had labeled more things. The engine is easier to get out with the hood off... I took mine out with the tranny attached.


Once you start picking up the engine... check for things you forgot to disconnect after you get it up a few inches... but that might not be a problem since you stripped the motor already.

BlaCkPlaGUE

If I leave the tranny in, how do I line it back up with the engine when it is out? is this where the clutch alignment tool comes in?

I still wanted to take the tranny out and replace the seals that aaron was talking about, and also clean it up, replace the fluid (so much easier when its out ).

So I think now that i've thought about it, and you guys suggested it, I'll leave the tranny in, take the engine out, work on that and save the tranny for another day.

thx for the help yet once again.

felixwankel88

ok, take off the hood, make it s short block, unbolt from tranny, and yank her out.. DO not cut the rad support if it wont come out hahahaha.. ill see what i got for pics in stock

felixwankel88

jono20

hey felix.. I just wanna say that your friggin amazing.

youve very thoroughly inspired me to buya beater car this winter and rebuild my 7. i <3 felix.

youre only 16 and ahve done tonnes to these cars,a dn I figure ive got that 12 months on you, so I should be able to do the same!

this thread is definitly getting bookmarked for future reference...

myexlex

It is alot easier to remove the hood and to leave it long block. Youd be surprised how easy it is to strip it once its out of the bay. I remove motor only if Im just replacing the motor. To align the clutch to the input shaft, put the motor so that the input shaft is in the clutch, then turn the motor with a 19mm socket untill the motor slides into the bellhousing.

johnnyg

This is funny...it's almost the exact same thing I said to him earlier tonight in another thread! Only I have a few more than 12 months on him

13angryB's

iTrader: (5)

This was my first time pulling a motor, and I honestly didn't have any problems with leaving the hood on & pulling both the engine & trans... just used a short chain on front lift bracket, with no leveler.. I had the car on the ground, not stands.
the trans didn't even touch ground.

You don't have to unbolt the drive shaft if you're pulling both out together,.. it just pulls out of the back of the transmission

Wouldn't it be easier to seperate & then re-align the transmission with both of them out of the car..? rather that trying to reach way up in there for the bell housing bolts.
I think so, but what the hell do I know.. I havn't put the motor back in the car yet.

jono20

frig though. the kid is such an inspiration to me. like I watch that vid of his rebuild, and I go through and im all impressed then I see him, and its just, WOW!

BlaCkPlaGUE

So far thats the plan, I'll get some pics tomorrow.
Right now I need to buy a ******* big wrench for the oil cooler lines, they're big bolts, and I don't have anything that large. Anyone know of the size?
I may have access to a hoist as well tomorrow, if I can get my hands on that wrench as well, it'll be pretty sweet.
This is turning into a lot of work and money. Every little thing that I look over, I feel thatI should replace.

oil cooler lines
clutch line
altenator
water pump
downpipe

Plus of course the cost that I have factored in for my project, wich is to rebuild the intake system to stock again.
This is all so I can get rid of this car and focus on my real goal.