Pulling an engine is super easy!

Pull off all intake manifolds and accessory bs, that's what I always do.
Unhook oil cooler lines.
Unhook all plugs/****, move harness to side.
Drain fluids and take off radiator hoses.
Unhook downpipe, header, whatever you have.
Unbolt engine mounts.
Bolt the links of the engine hoist.
Pull it out!

I've pulled the engine twice with the hood on and once with the hood off, both are easy. Never had to remove radiator or anything like I've heard some people suggest, and when I did it with the hood on I just propped it up higher than normal. With the hood off it took freaking zero time to get that out. It's common sense, really, if you're smart and good at problem solving it'll take you no time at all.

Also, unlike Felix ( ) I would suggest using more than 1 hook to pull the engine

I always use at least 2 positions where 1 is usually bolted to the header stud and the other is either bolted somewhere else opposite side or on a hook or something. And then I use a leveler too to make it come out without too much tilt (so it wont pull up on the tranny too much).

 

well I have a koyo which is the reason I remove the rad, not to mention that I have to remove the oil cooler line from the oil cooler itself. I remove motor only, I can bolt on everr bolt for the for the bellhousing from the top, for the exception of the starter bolts. The motor aligns with the trany easily.

 

I pull my motor with my radiator and e-fan still attached

Guess I'm just skilled, or I get lucky, who knows

 

Could you elaborate this more? sounds interesting, but im not to sure what your talking about. I understand what to do, but how does the engine align properly by turning it over, and how does it automatically corkscrew into the clutch/bellhousing?

thx

also what size wrench for those oil cooler line fittings heh..

 

Crescent wrench is what I use, nice and adjustable.

 

*slaps head... hard
Christ, why the hell didn't I think of that! Heh. cause it wasn't in my toolbox.
thx bro.
I bet im gonna need a breaker bar for those bastards...

 

yeah i tryed to find the rite size for them lines with my wrentches or sockets they were either to big or too small, so i used a adjustable wrentch, call me a hack but it worked

 

Yah for the rear one I had to use a cheater bar on the crescent wrench

Front I used a crescent and a thin (cant remember size) wrench to get it off the front cover. My normal wrench was too thick, couldn't get it in between the fittings, but my friends dad's wrenches were very slightly thinner and worked wonders.

 

I'm pretty sure that the "odd-sized" oil line fitting is a 23 mm. Some people are able to make a 15/16" wrench work, but that wasn't the case for me.

A crescent wrench may work, but I prefer adding a new wrench to my toolbox over rounding off the head on that banjo bolt. The banjo bolt probably costs more than the wrench, and will be harder to find. But, I have a serious tool fetish that I can't control, and will always opt for the new tool.

 

when you see that the motor is more or less centralized(flywheel inside bell housing) just push the motor back as far as itll go. Then while holding it back turn the crank with a wrench or rachet, untill you see that it slides in. It may sound complicated but once you are actually doing it, youll get the point.


And ddub its not a question about skill, you never know if the chain might slip or something. Its 2 bolts and the hoses to remove the rad, its more of a peace of mind type of thing.

 

OK, I'm making good progress on my removal. It looks like I've cleared the passenger side and I've only got a few items left on the drivers side. One of them is the A/C compressor and PS pump. Is it possible to remove the entire mounting braket from the engine? I can see 3 bolts, but there is one just below the CAS that doesn't look accessible.

 

I never understood why people stip the motor in the car... you should be able to remove it from the car.

 

Seriously, save yourself the trouble of taking absolutely everything off. I pulled the engine and tranny together and it made things a lot easier. To make it better, its a lot easier to get the tranny off and back on out of the car. Just get the hood off, pull off the power steering and AC pumps and set them aside (or remove if your like me lol), take off oil cooler lines and oil cooler, radiator has to come out unless you like the thought of pulling the engine through it, and unhook every thing that will obviously have to be disconnected. I found it easiest to get in the car under the dash and unplug the engine harness to take it out with the engine. That way i took my entire engine out in longblock form, with the manifolds on and the entire engine harness still connected to the engine. Now that the motor is out I can weed through the harness easier. For the tranny wiring make sure you lable everything so you don't forget which one goes where. Masking tape and a sharpie work wonders for that stuff Also make sure you mark the driveshaft where it connects to the diff...that has to go back in the same position for balance purposes. It took my friend and I about 3 hours to pull the engine this way, and this is the first engine I have pulled. After doing it I thought, hmmm....no big deal. Hope that helps, feel free to PM me with more questions...just got done dropping my new carb motor and tranny back in. Should be running soon.

 

Yes it is possible to remove the bracket. I actually took that off my motor before I pulled it out. Shouldnt be that hard to get to the lower bolts, I know it wasnt fun but I got them out fine before I started pulling the motor.

 

Only I don't want to disconnect the A/C. There's no good reason to.

Overall though, I'm quite satisfied with my decision to strip it before pulling it. I've got 4 hours into it so far and maybe another 2 before she's ready to be pulled. The pile of parts on the garage floor is small and neat. In short, all that stuff has to come off anyway and it certainly wasn't difficult to do it while in the car.

 

Thanks. I only took a quick look at it before calling it a day. Once that's off, I've got the oil cooler lines and a couple other minor items. Overall, it's all gone very smoothly. Which worries me

 

Ya i'm actually in the middle of stripping/pulling my engine too. I dont find removing things while the engines in the car all that difficult. Only thing is that i have to take out EVERYTHING from the engine bay cuz i wanna paint it black. Yay for me

 

well considering its taken you 6 hours to remove it, it seems like your having problems. The ac compressor unbolts with 4 bolts, you can leave it in the car connected, or you can just remove the whole bracket. Its not that difficult for you to have spent all that time.

 

Nope, no problems at all, but I didn't realise this was a race.

I've worked on my '7 plenty (it's never been to the shop), but 'tis my first time pulling an engine of any sort, so I'm taking 'er easy.

edit: Oh wait! You didn't think I had spent 6 hours removing JUST the A/C & power steering pump, did you?!! THAT would sure be a sign to stop, put down the wrench, and call a tow truck!

 

My question was actually if you could remove the bracket with the PS pump and A/C compressor still attached to it. The answer is no. Found that out the good old fashioned way

New question...I tried to carefully disconnect the front oil cooler line but I'm a touch confused. Do I hold the 2nd (smaller) nut with one wrench while turning the other?

 

Yea, you got it. The smaller nut closest to the block is a fitting that the oil cooler line screws on to. Hold the smaller nut while turning the bigger one. While you're at it, pick up a nice set of stainless steel oil cooler lines. They will flow better and last a lot longer than the stock lines. Just one less thing to worry about. Hope that helps. Keep us posted

 

Ya thats exactly how u do it. Don't be surprised if it gives you a big fight tho. I did this yesterday actually and I lost to it....so i just tore the gotdamn hose off

 

Lmao! That sounds just like what I ended up doing. I got so frustrated I said screw it, im getting SS lines anyway and just cut the damn things off! I couldn't break the front line loose to save my life. Rear was fine, cus well, when in doubt an impact gun does loosen things you wouldn't be able to do by hand

 

Before I go buying tools today, is the smaller one 17mm, and the bigger one 22mm?

Depending on how the whole budget works out, and depending on whether I can remove the darn thing from the engine or just give up and cut , I will try to squeeze in some SS lines!

 

About the sizes, maybe someone else will chime in. I know on mine the smaller fitting was more like a 20mm and my cresent wrench didn't go big enough to get the larger one. My car is a S5 NA maybe others are different? Sry, wish I knew the sizes for ya.