I'm in the middle of rebuilding a s4 13bt. One of my housings was shot so I needed to use a N/A housing. I was lucky enough today to get the welding shop across the street to mig weld the roll pins in the exhaust sleeves. They came out like butter! I was also able to get my new stationary gear bearings pressed and I was able to drill open the coolant passage on the N/A housing. I think I may put my motor together this weekend!! I just wanted to say YAHOO!

 

What do you mean by "Mig welding the roll pins"?

 

I would also like to know. I'm going to need to do this soon.

 

you need to weld a small blob on top of the roll pin with a mig welder. The blob can then be grabbed with a pair of vice grips. Spray some WD40 on it and give it a few twists. When you pull up, it will pop right out. I've got some pics.

 

pls post the pics, cause maybe i also need a NA housing into my turbo engine

thx

 

here

 

if you still had one good turbo housing, why did you need to machine the coolant passage? couldnt you just use it as the housing where that passage does nothing?

 

i think he had to replace the rear housing....correct me if i'm wrong...

 

Yeah, I tried this process today for the first time and HOLY #^$* !!!!! It works soooo well!!!!

 

For those that don't have a Mig welder, you can use some course dry wall screws (the long black ones) to pull them out. Take a dremel with one of those small diamond texture bits (don't know the name) and enlarge the pin hole slightly. Then "V" the top of the pin with the same bit using a circular motion. This allows the screw to grab onto the inner walls of the roll pin. Use a drill to drill the screw in tightly. Some WD-40 and a block of wood with a claw hammer is all that's needed to pry them out.

 

THERX-7IST.............can you give me a hint/clue of how thick that part of metal is where you drilled out the blocked water passage??? Someday I might finish my non turbo to tubo engine and I was going to drill that blank water passage out to feed the turbo.

 

it's about 8mm thick, it varies depending on the castings. i've done this process with numerous n/a to turbo converted housings and i only recommend the weld process for the roll pins, it is the only way to go!

and yes, the rotor housings are directional front to rear so to have a working EGR system the rear rotor housing needs to stay at the rear, the front does not need to be drilled.

 

8mm means I can always thread and plug it if I want to undo my drill job. Yeah.

 

yep, it is plenty thick, the plug can even fit inside behind the manifold so long as the drilling is centered,

 

yeah, it's real thick. tapping would be easy.