Hey do you have to remove the oilpan in order to remove the front cover.I need to change my front oil seal and it looks like maybe I could just remove the bolts that hold it to the oil pan(and the front housing of course)and remove it.Is this possible or do I have to remove the oil pan?Thanks

 

i hope im thinking correctly its late. tell me if this is what your talking about, because im not sure.

well think about it, if you take off one section of the oil pan seal, then put it back on ur not going to get a good seal around the oil pan.

do it rite. take off the whole oil pan, then the housing, then put silcon or whatever you have and seal the oil pan good.

 

yes, you have to take the oil pan off....no biggie, just like 15 bazillion bolts holding the pan on

Daniel

 

Actually, you are correct, just take off the front cover, and apply the necessary RTV properly (inside the bolt holes) upon reassembly. You do not need to drop the pan.

Add a bit extra RTV to the corers where the pan meets the front iron, and make sure you go thin with the RTV on the front-cover-to-front-iron, especially around the feed hole for the MOP.

 

I have DONE this job without dropping the oilpan. More than once. You dont even have to get under the car to do so in most cases. The real bitch of the job is getting the a/c and p/s bracket off beforehand.

 

No...you don't have to take the oil pan off. There are maybe 6? 10mm at the front of the oil pan that you need to take off since it screws to the front cover. You can feel the 10mm bolts . I found it easy if you have a 10mm open end ratchet. They're cheap and since you cannot see the bolts, it'll make it really easy to take it off. There is lots of space between the steering rack and oil pan.
The worst part is taking all the **** off getting to it.

 

I've done this too without dropping the oil pan. It's easier than it looks. The hard part is getting the bolt at the front of the motor off. (the eccentric shaft bolt)

 

Crap I forgot about A/C and P/S bracket.Thing that puzzles me is I only have about 60K miles on that seal.I replaced it when I did my rebuild.

 

This is one of the easiest, and most fun parts. Simply heat the bolt with a torch, put a 19MM socket onto a breaker bar, and then onto the front bolt, then put the breaker bar against the drivers side strut tower, and go bump the starter with the CAS disconnected.
Easy.

DAK: I suggest you polish the front hub with some 600 grit or higher sandpaper, and make sure to lube it with oil before reassembly. Also, make sure it is not cocked in its bore upon installation.

This is not a job you should have to perform often... usually only during a rebuild.

I don't need to mention that the MOP, which also has a tendency to leak, is right beside the fornt pulley....