2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

Reliability Modifications to the S4 T2

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-03-08, 05:55 PM
  #1  
Rotartist

Thread Starter
iTrader: (13)
 
RRTEC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Spring Hill TN 37174
Posts: 7,252
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Arrow Reliability Modifications to the S4 T2

Seached all through the FAQ, and archives. I am looking for a one stop shop for T2 specific RELIABILITY modifications.

I have a S4 T2 I want to keep stock engine wise, but I would like to make it as reliable as possible. Are there some one stop shop threads? I know about the 60k tuneup stuff, what dont I know about for T2's?
Old 07-03-08, 06:22 PM
  #2  
mostly posts useless info
 
nunchuckgun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: virginia beach, va
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
keep it stock and treat it like a newborn baby, get the motor/turbo/tranny rebuilt?
Old 07-03-08, 08:46 PM
  #3  
rotorhead

iTrader: (3)
 
arghx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: cold
Posts: 16,182
Received 429 Likes on 263 Posts
just replace all fluids, hoses. and lines, especially that coolant hose by the firewall which leaks, the OMP vacuum spider, all intake gaskets. Check to see if your cats are clogged. The T2 doesn't need reliability mods in the same way that the FD does (like aluminum AST), it just needs the stock stuff checked and replaced if not functioning.
Old 07-03-08, 09:02 PM
  #4  
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
 
gslse-driver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: usa
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
belts, hoses, all fluids changed (coolant flush), thermostat, fuel filter and pickup sock, waterpump, fuel pulsation damper, clean injectors with new orings/grommets, downpipe/new exhaust gaskets/check main cat for leaks at the inside seams, SS braided oil cooler lines, vacuum hoses, check TID and lower turbo coupler for cracks/leaks, possible clutch slave and master replacement. Check EGR valve for leakage under vacuum. Be sure all plastic ducting is present in the front of the car for best cooling.
Old 07-03-08, 09:14 PM
  #5  
Pistons are gay

iTrader: (11)
 
Boosted11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Prince George, BC
Posts: 1,973
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Koyo rad, e-fan, fmic, nicely boxed in K&N w/ source of air, and power fc commander. They aren't necessary but would help.

Last edited by Boosted11; 07-03-08 at 09:20 PM.
Old 07-03-08, 09:36 PM
  #6  
rotorhead

iTrader: (3)
 
arghx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: cold
Posts: 16,182
Received 429 Likes on 263 Posts
^ if he's trying to keep the motor very close to stock, those aren't necessary at all. The stock radiator is perfectly fine on a stock car. FD's had bad cooling systems from the factory, for factory power levels.

Stainless oil cooler lines is another reliability mod though, I forgot about that. Just about everything else isn't really a "mod" so much as just fixing factory stuff. Clean all your ground wires including the battery ground.
Old 07-03-08, 10:13 PM
  #7  
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
 
Icemark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Rohnert Park CA
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 19 Posts
Things to do for relaibility on a FC motor past 75K miles:

E-shaft thermo pellet, Pulsation Dampener, belts, hoses, spark plug wires and plugs, Mazda oil filter, fuel filter.

Things to do on a FC every 30K miles
Belts, fluids (including tranny and rear end), spark plugs, air filter, repack wheel bearings.
Old 07-04-08, 10:10 AM
  #8  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
Craiger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For realiability, the mod's are very simple. Just do regular maitenance such as what has been listed above, and don't beat the hell out of the car all day long. Bringing the car up to red line on a regular basis is a must as well as that helps eliminate carbon buildup inside the engine. Aswell, make sure all your major grounds are clean and not loose or corroded. Aaron Cake has a good article on grounds here http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm
Old 07-04-08, 12:42 PM
  #9  
re-amemiya body vert

iTrader: (2)
 
Flash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think everything has been mentioned except for OMP lines upgrade. I intend to do this eventually, just haven't gotten around to it.

There's a how-to somewhere but I forget who posted it, so search. Basically replaces the omp oil lines with upgraded hose that is more resistant to heat and will stay flexible as most people's omp lines are usually pretty hard after being in that hot engine bay for around 20 years.

Some say it's over kill, but it sounds like that's what you going for.


*EDIT: Found the link in the archives.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=mop+lines
Old 07-04-08, 01:03 PM
  #10  
Rotary Revolutionary

iTrader: (16)
 
sharingan 19's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
Posts: 3,881
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
+ 1 for oil cooler lines!

I'd flush the cooling system and replace the water pump and thermostat as well. Emissions removal will help simplify things and silicon vaccum hoses would be nice while you're at it. Other than that, regular tune up things should take care of it.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SRTx781
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
6
12-19-15 07:30 PM
NickNac113
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
13
10-01-15 09:25 PM
Turblown
Single Turbo RX-7's
1
09-30-15 05:58 PM



Quick Reply: Reliability Modifications to the S4 T2



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:42 AM.