GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for posting a bunch lately, but I am about to take apart my rear end and I don't want to do it again if possible.

So I was looking online on stuff to do and I saw this, https://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/h...InstalledB.jpg , on Mazdatrix. A rear lower spherical bearing, but I thought to myself, "why would I need this?"

Question 1) After removing the rear steering, shouldn't the rear lower bushing just be solid? How often do these lower ones go bad? I already have the steering eliminators, and I just purchased solid upper bushing, I'm debating if I should even change this bottom one, or if I should make another solid one for this bottom. No more rear steering, no more need for these 3 points to move, right?

My lateral links were old, but no excessive freeplay. I'm debating on getting the Battle Version replacements just to do it while everything is out. Also, I bought the MAX rear control arm spherical bearing, and I am debating on keeping the stock toe adjustment or leaving the eccentric bolt toe adjustment.

Question #1) How hard is it to get to the lock nuts on the aftermarket lateral links? Would it be a pain in the buttocks to adjust while positioning end links for no bind?

I'm also thinking about adding a pinion snubber. Maybe mocking up where would be a good place to drill before I remove everything and doing it when my rear end is off.

Question #3) after everything is in, should I have my pinion snubber barely contacting the front nose of my diff, a little pressure, or gapping the distance?

I took my rear end apart a few years ago. This is what I already did
-delrin subframe bushings machined at factory heights(debating on maching them to raise the subframe
-delrin rear diff bushings (will be turned down if I do the subframe raising
-never break front diff mount , Anyone with good or bad reviews on this mount
-koyo rear wheel bearings
-arp wheel studs, 3 o 3.5", forgot
-polyurethane control arm bushing, I ended up buying the max spherical bearing. I've seen quiet a bit of polyurethane stuff oval out over time. Anyone with similar experiences with a poly bushing for rear control arms. Any good experiences?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if that lower spherical bearing is good than you can leave it, it'll essentially be solid. they last forever, as they don't pivot much.

the battleversion links are good, i just saw Alex the other weekend, he has all kinds of hardware, and he can basically build any arm on any car at this point.

for the toe thing, you have 2 options. the OEM way is to set the BV links to the stock length, and use the factory toe adjusters as in tended. or B, the racer way is to set the OE toe adjusters so that you get the longest wheelbase, and use the BV links for toe adjustment.

AmT_T

iTrader: (11)

Put in toe eliminators, as long as you have no play in your spherical bearings, reuse them and call it a day.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

Is that maximum toe out on stock adjuster and using the lateral links to set proper alignment?

Do you mean getting rid of the eccentric bolt and using aftermarket toe arms?

Or do you mean get the rear wheel steering dtss eliminators?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yes i think that is correct.

halfrice

where did you get the solid upper and the delrin subframe/diff bushings?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

solid upper is most likely a PBM part:
Solid Bushings for FC - Parts Shop MAX

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

The pinion snubber is an easy one. Pull the bins out and you will notice a dimple in the floor. It is like mazda designed it for a pinion snubber all along. Drill it and spacer them with some washers.

Some say to leave a "tiny bit of slop" so you do not hear diff whine all the time. Mine is snug snug. And with solid everything else out back you hear everything.

halfrice

does anyone make urethane upper and dif/subframe? not 100% sure if i want to go solid or not yet.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

if you plan on DD, I would not use solid diff/subframe. I own them, and it would get old quick. Great on track days though!

eage8

iTrader: (9)

solid upper tri-axial mounts and solid subframe mounts don't add NVH (hoise vibration or harshness).

for differential bushings I would recommend mazdaspeed rubber bushings. they're great.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

I have actually been considering dropping back my solid diff bushings to the mazdaspeed units.

halfrice

where can you find the mazdaspeed units?

Rikk

iTrader: (2)

www.mazdamotorsports.com, if you set up an account you can save some $$ on parts too
GL Rikk

halfrice

says i have to be racing to sign up tho, can these be purchased at the stealership?

Rikk

iTrader: (2)

Racing Beat sells them for sure, Mazdatrix may as well