shadow7

iTrader: (3)

I never redlined my first 7 bought new but did change oil at 2K failthfully. Original engine lasted 228,700 miles.[/QUOTE]
so after your first rx7 did you actually redline your other 7's? mine has 112,000 and i honestly have no idea what kind of care it has undergone. The car seems to be in exelent condition and the engine runs really strong. But as said im not a real fan of redlinning a vehicle, i just dont like to put my cars under that kind of stress, now if i follow the instructions of changing the oil religiously and possibly reving the engine @ 6500-7000 every once in a while when merging into the freeway as said by the other Sr. but honestly if i dont have to get past 4000 that would be awsome. THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP!!!

synesthete

Redlining a healthy 13B is all well and good. Of course the higher rpm puts stress on a lot of externals too though so dont stay there. Since it is a seven thats where all the power is and so thats where they get driven.
Just make sure you arent putting too much stress on tired components.

Goofy

If it's the one I'm thinking of, it was ricey, not junky, and he lit his bumper on fire with the flames from the exhaust during the process.

Valkyrie

You should also consider that the rotors in the engine are only going to 3,000 RPMs even if you rev it to 9,000, since the rotors move at 1/3rd the speed of the eccentric shaft (which will be fine as long as you have good oil pressure).

In a piston engine, you have FAR more stress on the pistons, rods, and crankshaft (it might be spinning the same speed but it has the weights of the pistons and stuff pulling on it) than you do in a rotary, including the fact that it's not actually spinning as fast.

darksider

what exactly gets stressed on the rx7 from redlining? reason i ask is becasue i want to make it as easy as possible for me when i have to do a rebuilt. if redlining ***** up the rotors, irons, etc. (forcing me to have them surfaced or replaced) then ill stop doing it. i rather have to clean carbon then to replace rotors, irons etc. OHH YEAH **** THIEVES

synesthete

I was talking about external engine components. Oil cooler, Radiator, pretty much the whole drivetrain all get put under more stress with higher rpm. If your 13b is otherwise healthy than redlining it isnt gonna hurt the motor itself as long as it stays cool.

raptor22

It was an older thread, and the video wan't up any longer when i found it, I got the info in my last post from reading the replies.

The gist of what i got was that it was a really, really old motor that they didn't see as having any parts wort salvaging anymore, so they though it would be fun to see how long it would take to kill it.

--Alex

Goofy

It's a shame you didn't see it. Very interesting sounds. You could almost hear the engine cry.

By the way, it's f'n difficult to redline an automatic. Redline in second is about 80-90 mph, calculating by the fact that I was at 4k at 60 mph before someone got in front of me this morning.

And without a clutch, it engine brakes if you take your foot of the gas and you're forcing 2nd gear.

I think I'll just stop my efforts to be mean to my transmission and be happy that it's not fun to push it hard enough to destroy it.

cpubugs

It's actually pretty healthy for cylider engines also, the carbon still builds up if you drive it like a grandma. My Nissan truck pumps out a lot more power when I redline it. I have over 200,000 on my truck and I probably keep it well over 4500 most of the time. lol Poor truck. So when i get my 7 up and running..... Who knows.

wowbogusman

my fc doesnt redline.. i need some help

rotorgo

I have an '84 gsl se with over 247,000 miles on the original engine, and an 87 TII with over 111k on the original engine. The key to taking it to redline is to do it when the engine is fully warmed up. Not just running, but fully warmed up, the temp gauge is at normal driving temp. Because rotary motors are composed of different types of metal ( I know cast block and alum heads, but not the same as the sandwich style of the rotary), (which heat up and expand at different rates), and rely heavily on oil for lube and cooling, they will last a long time if warmed up before abuse. Both my cars see the warning buzzer or at least 6k, every time I drive. I also let them warm up completly EVERY TIME I DRIVE. Would you like to run a marathon when you just woke up?

jl1rx7

iTrader: (1)

but it still wont hurt the engine if you readline it! the external componets get more stress, yes and if you upgrade them its easier to stay at redline. and if you let your motor warm up and then redline it on the onramp to an interstate you will have a motor that will last a long time. I only say this for n/a's, i never had a turbo, so trubo guys can chime in if they have any info on there motors, but if you have good oil pressure and good cooling going to redline wont hurt you motor at all.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

I've hit 8k in 2nd a few times... I love hearing the buzzer go bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz for more than few seconds, I'm like "Shut-up! Ill shift after I come out of the turn!" When I'm somewhere like VIR or Deals Gap I'll take it up around there all the time, let off and go right back up again, repeat as needed for corners... heh. The buzzer is just to remind you to shift since not much more is going to happen power wise after that. If you have a healthy motor and everything else is in good working condition go for it once in a while.

bacek

redlining does really hurt the externals its the heat that it causes in the engine bay not to mention the movement... all the old rubber and other deteriorating goods suffer from that the externals really dont get harm from the redline per se

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I've got a heavily modded N/A and I've let it chill at 7 grand plenty of times when cornering at the racetrack (VIR) or back roads (Deal's Gap Rotary Rally). The reason why the redline is 7k on the n/a s4's is partly because the car stops making power at 7k. There is no point in revving it higher unless you are ported. Likewise, a T2 will stop making power over 7k b/c the turbo is too small. One of the reasons why FD's redline higher than an s5 T2 is because the stock twins flow a lot more than a 2nd gen turbo

Unseen24-7

I talked to a mechanic (formerly worked at my local Mazda dealership for 5 years), and he was pretty confident that these engine (i'm referring to N/A's) could handle 8, 9 or even 10k RPM!!! I was a little surprised and suspicious at the same time cause that seemed a little outrageous even for a rotary. Thoughts???

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ this is a common misconception among people who don't know all the little details about rotaries, or even among people who have at least done a little work on them. The s4's make no power over 7 grand stock. The manifolds and porting are limited. S5's can redline at 8k because of lighter rotors and the VDI system which will allow the manifold to flow better at those higher rpms.

Now the 6 port renesis redlines at 9k in part because the manifold and ports can progressively open so that you have primaries, then secondaries, then auxilary ports opening to give a broad and flatter torque curve over large rpms than say an s4 or a GSL-SE. Plus the side exhaust design allows for bigger ports than flow better at higher rpm. You also have the problems of getting chattering on the housings etc on older designs that weren't meant to be tached out like a renesis.

Why do you think that a GSL-SE and Renesis are both 6 port motors, both displace the same amount of air, but the renesis makes at least 60 more rwhp (~120 vs. ~180)? You're only looking at 9.4 vs. 10:1 compression between the two.

Twofer

Engine yes, accessories and drivetrain... not so much. Most flywheels are only rated up to X rpm, I've seen 9k and 10.5k. Then they're sort of prone to exploding, and the flywheel is right next to your leg. Also the water pump, alternator and other accessories are designed to run in the daily driving RPM range, and only a little bit at higher RPM.

Regarding the redline, I think jackhild59 put it best.

Also rotorgo's point about getting to operating temp first...

I personally like to redline it in 2nd, 1st goes by too fast.