Recommended lightweight flywheel?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Recommended lightweight flywheel?
Looking at lightweight flywheels in an attempt to improve my 40-80 downshift times. Right now the car rips off the line, but if you downshift into 2md at 40 and hit it it goes nowhere, just slowly creeps up in speed all lethargically. This obviously isn’t very conducive to road racing, and I’ve heard that an aluminum flywheel will help with pulling out of corners. Does anyone have a recommended brand?
Also are there any significant benefits to running lightened rotors and e shaft or am I just throwing away $1500 at that point?
Also are there any significant benefits to running lightened rotors and e shaft or am I just throwing away $1500 at that point?
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,844
Received 2,606 Likes
on
1,849 Posts
i've usually used the Racing beat stuff, the steel one was like how the car should have been from the factory, and then the aluminum one is more racey.
i have an ACT now, but it wasn't much lighter than the stocker, so you can't tell
i have an ACT now, but it wasn't much lighter than the stocker, so you can't tell
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,844
Received 2,606 Likes
on
1,849 Posts
the stock one is too heavy, IMO, and going from too heavy to slightly too light with the AL is a big change. the steel one though feels like its the one the car should have had from the factory.
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
So for a tracked car a 9 Lb flywheel should be golden? I agree, the revs drop brutally slow with the factory flywheel, to the point where it actually feels like a handicap just doing a nice Sunday drive. I’m not at all worried about launching off the line because once I get going at the track there’s no looking back, I’m planning on keeping it above 3.5k the whole time.
#6
Information Regurgitator
wow really? I’ve heard from some people that it’s the most dramatic change they’ve done to their 7 besides porting it and exhaust. Others say there is absolutely no reason to have a lightweight flywheel because reality is you’re shaving such a minuscule amount of weight off your driveline that’s it’s just a giant scam.
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
I can only speak for the RB steel one that I have but I really like it. Also even though at 17lbs total including the counter weight it is only 5lbs lighter than stock the difference in inertia is actually more than the weight difference suggest due to the stock ones weight is at the outer edge vs. the aftermarket ones are at the center. I was leary of the aluminum on a street car so I went with the steel, though I'm still curious about the aluminum. I thought it was well worth it.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
I can only speak for the RB steel one that I have but I really like it. Also even though at 17lbs total including the counter weight it is only 5lbs lighter than stock the difference in inertia is actually more than the weight difference suggest due to the stock ones weight is at the outer edge vs. the aftermarket ones are at the center. I was leary of the aluminum on a street car so I went with the steel, though I'm still curious about the aluminum. I thought it was well worth it.
Looks like Exedy has an option.
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,844
Received 2,606 Likes
on
1,849 Posts
#10
Information Regurgitator
Looks like they sell the Exedy as the steel option for the turbo. They say 13lbs. excluding the counter weight, so with the counterweight that's 17.25lbs. The same weight as their their steel one for the n/a. Says it's chrome moly steel as well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
alex1206
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
43
08-29-10 03:23 AM
bottlejockey
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
4
01-02-03 08:22 PM